Stripped Exhaust Stud

[TRDownShift]

I facepalmed 4 times in here.
Facepalm 1: "i need a running driving car ASAP"
You made a bad choice if you need a reliable daily driver. Project =/= DD
Facepalm 2: "I've LOVED supras from the first time i saw a MKIV wen i was 8 or 9...."
Please tell me that first time wasn't a bright orange Supra with vinyls, NOS, and a wing that raced a certain person who lived life a quarter mile at a time.
Facepalm 3: "but i have to say... im REALLY start to resent this friggin car..."
Wait til you get a BHG.
Facepalm 4: "Would it work if i put JB weld in the stud hole then ramed the stud in with a hammer and just tightened down the nut?"
JB weld occasionally has business being used in a repair. This is not one of those times. Fix it right or fix it twice.
-AM3

Facepalm 1: "i need a running driving car ASAP"

Kiss My Ass number 1: I bought the car 6 months ago as a project, but my DD is dieing and i only have to enough money to MAYBE get this car running. OWNED! lets move on.

Facepalm 2: "I've LOVED supras from the first time i saw a MKIV wen i was 8 or 9...."
Please tell me that first time wasn't a bright orange Supra with vinyls, NOS"

Kiss My Ass 2: it was wen a slick clean, OEM black MKIV pulled into car lot my dad used to work at. 2-0 then, shal we move on...

Facepalm 3: "but i have to say... im REALLY start to resent this friggin car..."
Wait til you get a BHG.

Kiss My Ass 3: Why do you think I'm putting it back to together? I just replaced The head gasket and torqued it down to 90ft-lbs with ARP's. 3-0

Facepalm 4: "Would it work if i put JB weld in the stud hole then ramed the stud in with a hammer and just tightened down the nut?"
JB weld occasionally has business being used in a repair. This is not one of those times. Fix it right or fix it twice.

Kiss My Ass 4: Only useful info in your post and you still manage to be a class A wanker about it.

So if your not going to help then kindly GTFO! :: angry ::

 

[Smartparts]

I have the same problem with my head. Three or so exhaust manifold studs came out with the threads still attached. Now im worried the head might be no good. It has 200k miles on it but I really don't want to buy another one.

 

[kneedragger85]

Hi Guys, I'm having the same problem right now with mine only.... it seems like EVERYTHING on the hot side of the engine is striping out T.T.... (one mani stud, one thermostat housing stud, and two (yes... TWO!) of the studs on the part of the turbo elbow that connects to the downpipe.) I'm about ready to cry here... >.>.... because i have no clue of what to do with 4 striped out holes/studs on the same side of the motor in less then 5 minutes T.T... and im not even getting them tight, just small bit past hand tight and they strip right out like it's made of butter >.>.... i could cry.... i just dumped all the money i've had for the last 3 months into the this car because i need a running driving car ASAP always being just one step away from having it run... but it's always one step forward two steps back with the car and i'm reaching the end of my rope with this car... I've LOVED supras from the first time i saw a MKIV wen i was 8 or 9.... but i have to say... im REALLY start to resent this friggin car...

Any help is much appreciated... thanks...

Edit: (time to get crazy) Would it work if i put JB weld in the stud hole then ramed the stud in with a hammer and just tightened down the nut?

A better way of using JB weld than how you discribed is to drill the hole bigger, fill the hole, drill it, and then tap it. The only problem is that it's usuable temperature ceiling is around 400-500*F and the more heat you apply to it makes it overcure and peel off. I would just tap a larger size thread as JB weld is not a permanent nor ideal solution. I would just tap a bigger size thread into the stripped holes but since you mentioned you had a BHG, your head is most likely already annealed and headed for more stripped holes thus a helicoil or timesert is more viable.

For your elbow issue, the easiest would be to buy a used one from the f/s forum. They've got to be dirt cheap for the stockers and if I had one laying around I'd mail it to you for just postage.

---------- Post added at 07:40 AM ---------- Previous post was at 07:39 AM ----------

I have the same problem with my head. Three or so exhaust manifold studs came out with the threads still attached. Now im worried the head might be no good. It has 200k miles on it but I really don't want to buy another one.

Grab a straight edge and feeler gauges to check for warpage or have a shop do it.

 

[radiod]

For the others having the same issue, here's probably the best solution...
http://store.driftmotion.com/static/i-716exhauststudkit.php

It's a helicoil and stud kit that is 1/16" larger than stock. With the helicoils being steel, you won't have nearly as much problem with the holes stripping because it's not soft aluminum that you're holding on to anymore. From what I understand, you'll have to pull a bunch of extra stuff out/off (power steering resevoir/bracket, vacuum canister, etc), but you should be able to do almost all the holes with the engine in the car. One that you will likely not be able to get to (unless you've figured out some magical way that I haven't) is the very rear one. I've looked around for a specialty drill even to try and get back there, but everything's too big. With it being a 29/64" bit that you WILL have to cut down to do this job already, you need a 1/2" chuck. Nothing comes in small enough to fit that still has a 1/2" chuck.

None the less, if you do use this kit, you can count on not having to do it again unless you are seriously doing something wrong.

 

[TRDownShift]

Thanks guys, i'll have to book mark that driftmotion kit, I think i'll order it in the next few days ( i get paid tomorrow XD )

Now that fixes my manifold issue but.... what about the hole that striped out from the thermostat housing???? >.< it's also on the head i believe.. *runs* (now it's only one of the studs on the housing, the other two held tight. Do you think it'll hold with only two studs?)

 

[radiod]

You can buy helicoil kits in different sizes. If the hole is stripped out, find an appropriate sized kit with the right thread pitch for those bolts.

 

[TRDownShift]

Oh, I see. Ok thanks again

I am noob hear me rar!

 

[Another MkIII]

Facepalm 1: "i need a running driving car ASAP"

Kiss My Ass number 1: I bought the car 6 months ago as a project, but my DD is dieing and i only have to enough money to MAYBE get this car running. OWNED! lets move on.

Facepalm 2: "I've LOVED supras from the first time i saw a MKIV wen i was 8 or 9...."
Please tell me that first time wasn't a bright orange Supra with vinyls, NOS"

Kiss My Ass 2: it was wen a slick clean, OEM black MKIV pulled into car lot my dad used to work at. 2-0 then, shal we move on...

Facepalm 3: "but i have to say... im REALLY start to resent this friggin car..."
Wait til you get a BHG.

Kiss My Ass 3: Why do you think I'm putting it back to together? I just replaced The head gasket and torqued it down to 90ft-lbs with ARP's. 3-0

Facepalm 4: "Would it work if i put JB weld in the stud hole then ramed the stud in with a hammer and just tightened down the nut?"
JB weld occasionally has business being used in a repair. This is not one of those times. Fix it right or fix it twice.

Kiss My Ass 4: Only useful info in your post and you still manage to be a class A wanker about it.

So if your not going to help then kindly GTFO! :: angry ::

hehe, people that take my sarcasm seriously make me laugh.

In all seriousness, Helicoils are the only way to go. I've seen JB weld used for all kinds of things. It works, but about 90% of the time I've only seen it work as a temporary fix. If you are using this car as a reliable daily driver, sacrifice some downtime now and get EVERYTHING perfect. Trust me, I know it sucks to be without a car, especially when you need on every day. But its better to get it right now, while you are expecting the down time, then to try to find a last minute alternative when something breaks unexpectedly.
-AM3

 

[oldmansupra]

For the others having the same issue, here's probably the best solution...
http://store.driftmotion.com/static/i-716exhauststudkit.php

It's a helicoil and stud kit that is 1/16" larger than stock. With the helicoils being steel, you won't have nearly as much problem with the holes stripping because it's not soft aluminum that you're holding on to anymore. From what I understand, you'll have to pull a bunch of extra stuff out/off (power steering resevoir/bracket, vacuum canister, etc), but you should be able to do almost all the holes with the engine in the car. One that you will likely not be able to get to (unless you've figured out some magical way that I haven't) is the very rear one. I've looked around for a specialty drill even to try and get back there, but everything's too big. With it being a 29/64" bit that you WILL have to cut down to do this job already, you need a 1/2" chuck. Nothing comes in small enough to fit that still has a 1/2" chuck.

None the less, if you do use this kit, you can count on not having to do it again unless you are seriously doing something wrong.

I'm about to do this with the engine still in the car but will be removing everything I can to make room. Did you look into something like this for getting that last stud drilled? http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002OMBJC...e=asn&creative=395105&creativeASIN=B0002OMBJC

 

[D.J.T.]

Don't use JB Weld on exhaust side EVAR! I used some for a temporary fix. To cover my stock downpipes big holes & that only lasted a couple days before it started smelling like fish & burned crap... couldn't be more happy the day i got my 3" downpipe. TEMPORARY fix but its neither the right fix or way to go.

 

[radiod]

I've actually still got the kit sitting on my table, going to be taking it in next week to a place to get done because I don't have the time to do it myself unfortunately . I can tell you though that the drill bit that they send you in the kit is ground down so it should fit inside a 3/8" chuck. When I was looking in for things so I could do it myself there's tons of 3/8" chuck 90* adapters, so that would probably be your best bet. The one you linked was 1/4" though, so that would be too small for the bit. I still don't know if it will get you in to that last hole though.