Stock Supra Turbo Automatic 0-60 / Quarter Times

[theprodigy79]

I've been curious about this for a while, but all I can find when I search is conflicting information...

Do any of you know the original 0-60 and quarter mile ratings for a STOCK Turbo/automatic configuration (meaning new, not 16+ years old and beat to hell)?

The most "reliable" sites state:

1986 Toyota Supra 7.0 15.4
1988 Toyota Supra 7.9 16.0
1989 Toyota Supra Turbo 6.6 15.2
1991 Toyota Supra Turbo 7.1 15.6

But that info is way too generic... If I HAD to assume, it looks like the 1991 Turbo is an auto and the 1989 Turbo is a 5 speed... But that doesn't explain the 1986, considering there was no Turbo model (or unless that's the MKII, but was the MKII THAT fast stock???)...

Also, how much does the targa really effect performance?

I know you all have heard these questions or similar many times, and I appreciate your patience and help... I'm just trying to figure out if my car is truly running as it should be. I can't even break the rear tires free unless I punch it hard around a corner (and even then it's difficult)... My car is pretty much a bone stock Turbo/Auto w/ Sport Roof. It runs flawlessly but I guess I just expected a bit more, power wise (my Solara would crush it 0-60 or in the quarter, even with its heavy ass 18" rims).

I plan to do BPUs eventually, but for now my priority is finding a house... Just trying to get the most out of the car meanwhile.

 

[starscream5000]

It's a heavy ass, underpowered car (for it's weight) stock, what else did you expect? The targa main effect on performance is in the handling deptartment .

 

[theprodigy79]

Hahaha ok so I'm good then. I ain't mad at it, just making sure that I'm up to snuff with where I should be (my main goal right now is to get the car running near new, and that it certainly does).

But yeah, comparing my 3500+lb Solara with 225hp / 240lbft torque to my 3600+lb Supra with 230hp / 248lbft torque I figured it would be more even... but I guess the older slush box really takes its toll! There may also be somewhat of a "placebo" effect from being able to break traction so easily just by stomping it from a stop in a FWD vehicle...

Thanks man, I feel better!

 

[johnathan1]

Targa cars are heavier due to extra chassis bracing.

 

[theprodigy79]

Yeah, I knew that, and I also knew it would cause difference in handling as well, but I definitely wanted the Targa. I just don't know what realistic differences the additional weight makes on straight line performance in these cars.

 

[dbsupra90]

its hard to go by published specs. it is always gonna be a range of times depending on the condition. but, generally they ran low 15's stock.

usually, an auto is quicker than a manual if driven right. you can launch under boost and dont loose boost between shifts. however, the auto was a little heavier but not enough to make a difference really.

what i would do with your car:

compression test. will tell the condition of the motor.

leakdown test. even more details about the condition of the motor.

jumper the E1 and Te1 in the diag box under the hood to check for any codes.

then, make sure the line pressure cable is set correctly. on the autos it make a huge difference in how it performs and shifts.

with the car off, hold the throttle wide open and see if the crimp on the cable comes to the edge or outside the orange boot. if it does not, adjust the lock nuts on the bracket til it does.

the crimp should be roughly where the red arrow is

 

[TurboStreetCar]

do the accumulator/line pressure mods, you'll be happy you did. my 150k mile stock tranny with only the accumulator mods is holding up to estimated 300rwhp pretty well and breaks my 255 BFG drag radials loose into second every time.

If im turning when it hits second under any decent amount of boost (i only run 10 pounds) it would defiantly get squirly.

Im only running 10 psi, tuned with the Maft gen2, with a 2.5 inch exhaust, an open element air filter and HKS drop in intercooler. Plus the tranny mods.

 

[Ric]

low 15's is about right. Nothing faster, but can be slower.

 

[theprodigy79]

Awesome guys, thank you VERY much for the info (it seems that the car is pretty much as it should be). I guarantee I can run low 15s easy with it as it is... My Solara is an upper mid 14 second car that can push 60mph in the mid 6s, so the performance difference seems about accurate.

As for compression and leakdowns, I had all that done a couple months back... I had the entire upper end re-sealed using a new Toyota OEM top-end gasket kit and a HKS MHG with ARP studs. Block and head were smoothed to spec, valves and all were taken proper care of... All belts and hoses are brand new (including timing belt and water pump), along with a new A'PEXi Power Intake (and a Bosche Porsche spec BOV to eliminate some compressor surge I was dealing with).

I'll check the line pressure cable later today just to make sure it's set right.

What are the "accumulator/line pressure mods" you refer to? Can you post a link to that information?

The car runs GREAT, just not quite as quick/fast as I'm used to I'm sure after some more basic stuff done to it I'll get it where I want ;-).

 

[dbsupra90]

sounds like you are on the right track w/ a solid car.

next step for me would be an exhaust. makes a big diff on a turbo car.

 

[TurboStreetCar]

http://supraforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=267655

 

[starscream5000]

A new downpipe that has a full flow elbow incorporated makes tons of difference, or you can get a full 3" elbow and full 3" downpipe combo to keep it like stock, either way, the gains are very noticable.

 

[theprodigy79]

Would you recommend a DDP or a regular DP? I WAS looking at the Titan DP w/ integrated turbo elbo 'till I started reading about the BIC DDP... I tried to PM BIC with a few questions, but never got a response... If you recommend a DDP, is there any disadvantage to going with the "recirculating" model (my car is currently a daily driver and I don't want it to be EXCESSIVELY or CONSTANTLY loud unless it is TRULY beneficial)?

I also plan to go with the Tanabe Hyper Medallion cat back and a high-flow cat...

Thanks,

-James

 

[johnathan1]

I think the divorced down pipe is a bit of an acquired taste...I don't think that you will gain much hp by going divorced versus a full-flow 3in downpipe...and it won't be stupidly loud @ WOT.

IMO, the extra noise makes the car seem faster...but I like quiet exhausts.

 

[gttwinturbomk3]

I have an original Toyota brochure from January 1989 that states exactly what your 88 should be running from brand new with manual transmission! They are a few tenths slower mate over the 1/4 mile if auto but not much!
The times are however the same to 60mph but further down the quarter mile the manual is a wee bit quicker than the auto

In your first post all the times looked fairly accurate to me except one the 7.9 16.0 time. That time is for the 7mge engine the engine with out the turbocharger on it

From the brochure.............

0-60 6.1 manual or auto
0-100km/h 6.3 manual or auto
Max speed 153mph or 245km/h manual or auto

It doesnt say what 1/4 mile times in those though. However i have other reference that have road tests in magazines from late 1980s that clearly say

1/4 mile manual = 15.2
1/4 mile auto = 15.5/15.6

So yours if you say is running around those times then it is going around about what it should be considering age also.......

Most 7mgte engines except earlier models stock at flywheel.................

power = 178kw
Torque = 254ft/lb

 

[starscream5000]

A DDP is loud for sure, I ran right off the testpipe on mine for some time, once I got a catback put on I don't think I'll ever care to hear an open wastegate again . IMO, the power difference between a DDP and a megamouth downpipe is negligable and not really worth the extra $$$ spent on the DDP, but to each his own, It's really your own preference that will decide. Try to find a sound/video clip of a supra with a very similar exhaust setup except one have a DDP and the other having a megamouth so you'll have a good idea. A select few people have had issues with boost creep using a DDP, but it's so few compared to how many actually use that DP that it's not a Big gamble...

 

[theprodigy79]

gttwin - That's some cool info man, thanks for posting that! I'm not sure if I can that believe the MK3 stock would have ever hit 0-60 in 6.1 seconds (especially with a 1/4 in the 15s), but I'll definitely have to look further into that.

johnathan and starscream - As far as the DDP goes... The standard one is atmospheric, however there is also a recirculating option that is supposed to quiet it down "without effecting performance"... Do any of you know if there IS any benefit to having the louder, atmospheric vented model vs the "muted" recirculating model? Also, I'd read about the boost creep and that was a bit concerning to me...

I'll probably go for the TMS full 3" dp w/ integrated high flow turbo elbo... but the BIC DDP did seem appealing, and I'm trying to eek the most performance out of the fewest parts (this doesn't mean less $$$, it means less complexity... I'm more than willing to cough up the extra $ if it will TRULY make a difference). As for loud vs quiet, whatever... I'd prefer a quietER setup... I know there won't be any "quiet" setup, and I certainly don't mind some noise, I'd just rather avoid having it be to the point of obnoxious. But once again, if the higher performance parts happen to be the loudest, so be it... As long as there is a TRUE impact in using them.

I'm appreciating all the input guys, you're all awesome.

-James

 

[johnathan1]

The only benefit i can see from using the Atmospheric DDP would be that your cutting down on the turbulence caused by the exhaust coming from the wastegate and exducer wheel being crammed into one pipe...but even then, it would only be a couple horsepower...not worth it, IMO.

I really don't understand the re-routed DDP, your still getting the turbulence between the wastegate exhaust and the exducer...just farther down the line...lol.

 

[theprodigy79]

That's what I was thinking as well... I was wondering if there was something I was missing, cuz they claim NO detrimental effects! If that were the case, what would be the point of going atmospheric at all (except for the rare people who LIKE the sound)!

 

[gttwinturbomk3]

The only benefit i can see from using the Atmospheric DDP would be that your cutting down on the turbulence caused by the exhaust coming from the wastegate and exducer wheel being crammed into one pipe...but even then, it would only be a couple horsepower...not worth it, IMO.

I really don't understand the re-routed DDP, your still getting the turbulence between the wastegate exhaust and the exducer...just farther down the line...lol.

I agree with all said IMO about DDP there.

Yeah you no what they go on about in these brochures while trying to sell a new product on the market:crazy1:
Thats just what it says in it man. But IMO it would be a wee bit slower maybe around 6.5-6.8?? I would think.
When you put a few parts on and take to track it will be interesting