How much can a stock crank hold power wise I need to order 1 before 4pm, or I can't get it till Monday?????
Stock crank can hold how much power NEED ASAP!
- Thread starter 7Mboost
- Start date
Did a search of "Stock Internals" I thought I remember seeing it -
Check this out, It talks about Stock internals. 600-700 HP if done correctly.
http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=31727&highlight=stock+internals
Check this out, It talks about Stock internals. 600-700 HP if done correctly.
http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=31727&highlight=stock+internals
Keep in mind the stock crank will have to be balanced and all the journals turned (if req) to hold that kind of power. The journals will have also to be in TSRM spec.
Yes, there is an aftermarket crank for the stroker engines that have popped up once or twice. Cheap they are NOT.
The stock crank (no doubt modded like mentioned by jdub, possibly more...) can hold a ridiculous amount of power - Mibrum is still using one, and I seem to recall that he was way above 1000 hp. Anything that can power a low 7 second pass is obviously pounding out way more power than you'll ever want on the street.
The stock crank (no doubt modded like mentioned by jdub, possibly more...) can hold a ridiculous amount of power - Mibrum is still using one, and I seem to recall that he was way above 1000 hp. Anything that can power a low 7 second pass is obviously pounding out way more power than you'll ever want on the street.
Adjuster
Supramania Contributor
The 7M engine is a good design crank and mains wise.
You have 7 mains.
And the crank is forged from the factory. (V/S cast which is cheaper, but not as strong.)
The downfall of most 7M engines is rod bearing failure due to low oil levels, and a poorly designed oil pan and pickup. (Under movement, the low oil amount is sloshed off the pickup, and engine starves for oil and you lose a bearing in the process, thus rod knock.)
Running one quart fuller than stock is cheap insurance.
You have 7 mains.
And the crank is forged from the factory. (V/S cast which is cheaper, but not as strong.)
The downfall of most 7M engines is rod bearing failure due to low oil levels, and a poorly designed oil pan and pickup. (Under movement, the low oil amount is sloshed off the pickup, and engine starves for oil and you lose a bearing in the process, thus rod knock.)
Running one quart fuller than stock is cheap insurance.
jdub said:
Yes I sent it down to my local machine shop and he ordered me a stoc crank and I'm going to have it balanced.
Adjuster said:
I thought 7m cranks were cast. Are you sure they're forged steel? Well hey, if Mibrum is running a stocker in his beast then it'll handle what I can afford to throw at it.
Adjuster
Supramania Contributor
I'm sure they are forged.
I'm also sure they are very stout. (Even when welded on and stroked, especially when the journals are hard chromed.)
Before I'd spend 1k on a billet crank, I'd have a stocker's journals hard chromed and machined perfect. (You can start with a crank that has journal damage, so it's cheaper too.)
The advantage is you put very hard metal where the wear points are, but leave the ductile (flexable) metal where you need it. (Everywhere else.)
Perhaps larger oil passeges would pay off, but I think with a good pump, and few restrictions worked around, the stock crank should be good to whatever you throw at it short of nitromethane.
My crank is stroked, hard chromed and knife edged. Then the entire rotating assy. is balanced so the engine runs nice and smooth up to redline.
Spend your money on rods if you want more power. I reccomend Pauter Machine. (I use them, and they are very stout.)
Get a good forged piston of your choice. (I have ROSS, but would likely go with a design using deeper skirts, and more undercutting of the skirts around the pins where there are no thrust loads to keep them as light as possible, yet strong where you need it. The Wiesco Forged pistons are interesting.)
I'm also sure they are very stout. (Even when welded on and stroked, especially when the journals are hard chromed.)
Before I'd spend 1k on a billet crank, I'd have a stocker's journals hard chromed and machined perfect. (You can start with a crank that has journal damage, so it's cheaper too.)
The advantage is you put very hard metal where the wear points are, but leave the ductile (flexable) metal where you need it. (Everywhere else.)
Perhaps larger oil passeges would pay off, but I think with a good pump, and few restrictions worked around, the stock crank should be good to whatever you throw at it short of nitromethane.
My crank is stroked, hard chromed and knife edged. Then the entire rotating assy. is balanced so the engine runs nice and smooth up to redline.
Spend your money on rods if you want more power. I reccomend Pauter Machine. (I use them, and they are very stout.)
Get a good forged piston of your choice. (I have ROSS, but would likely go with a design using deeper skirts, and more undercutting of the skirts around the pins where there are no thrust loads to keep them as light as possible, yet strong where you need it. The Wiesco Forged pistons are interesting.)
Properly prepped & balanced, the stock crank will hold more power than you will ever make.
Focus your energies on:
Rods
Pistons
Valve Springs
In that order.
Focus your energies on:
Rods
Pistons
Valve Springs
In that order.
is knife edge-ing the rods good pratices? or beam polishing?
what about lightening the crank? KE, or some sort. ?
what about lightening the crank? KE, or some sort. ?
Adjuster
Supramania Contributor
Springs are easy.
Comp cams BBC inner valve springs. (Funny that they sell them in boxes of 12..... Yet there are no V8's that use a combination of 12 anything valve wise..)
Best 70.00 your ever going to spend on the 7MGTE. (These springs have a better coil bind height, and the pressures are high enough to work great on stock rpm, and possibly up to about 7500rpm if you have a way to raise it.)
Also the seat pressure is not so high that it will cause any wear issues. (Both my opinion, and that of the engine shop owner who did my machine work, and was supprised to find these "cheap" springs worked so well, yet cost so little.)
Comp cams BBC inner valve springs. (Funny that they sell them in boxes of 12..... Yet there are no V8's that use a combination of 12 anything valve wise..)
Best 70.00 your ever going to spend on the 7MGTE. (These springs have a better coil bind height, and the pressures are high enough to work great on stock rpm, and possibly up to about 7500rpm if you have a way to raise it.)
Also the seat pressure is not so high that it will cause any wear issues. (Both my opinion, and that of the engine shop owner who did my machine work, and was supprised to find these "cheap" springs worked so well, yet cost so little.)