stock 7mgt limits?
- Thread starter MKiiiturbodrift
- Start date
MKiiiturbodrift;1290747 said:
I think the general consensus for the community is that for over 400hp, the pistons should be of a forged type. Probe pistons are an excellent choice for 400-500rwhp. There are other options you should look for if your goals are higher as that Probes were designed for that power range.
Stock rods are very stout, if checked and shot-peened, many have gotten proven results above 500rwhp. If your rods are good, stick with them.
The HKS stopper gasket is the gasket of choice for big power builds. The bead type will probably take anything you can throw at it at less than 500rwhp if you prepare the surface properly to a mirror finish and perfect flatness. Any MHG will fail without proper surface prep, but you probably already know this... just hitting it home to be sure
ARP headstuds, and replace the main studs/bolts and rod bolts with either ARP or stock... do not reuse the old ones!
Do something about new valve springs if you're going to be driving the sh*t out of it... there's several options out there if you search around.
One last note is to only use Toyota bearings, they're worth the money.
The 7m is a strong motor. I've heard the internals can hold up to 850hp not sure on that but it will deffinately hold 400-450whp. I have seen 300k miles or more on these motors, being a turboed sports car it has had to been ran hard at one point in its life time and mine has lasted 20 years, (all stock) when I got it.
Everything has to be correct to the specs to run high hp otherwise things will go wrong. Keep up on all your maintence and with the right supporting mods you should be fine with 400-450whp, that's what I'm going for when I'm done!
Everything has to be correct to the specs to run high hp otherwise things will go wrong. Keep up on all your maintence and with the right supporting mods you should be fine with 400-450whp, that's what I'm going for when I'm done!
Subscribed to see where this thread goes. I've seen a few like this but I'm going to be getting an unknown condition GTE and going to be building it back to ..."stock".
Well Stock specs. This thread might help me decide a few things.
Well Stock specs. This thread might help me decide a few things.
People are bending rods left and right on VQ35DE's(350Z motor) at 450+rwhp on good tunes. While other motors like the S52 found in the 95-99 M3's are taking 700+rwhp on stock internals; Recently a shop owner pushed 800+rwhp on the S52 and finally bent a rod.
The 7M is strong just like the S52 and JZ motors. I'm still waiting for someone to push it too it's limits..
The 7M is strong just like the S52 and JZ motors. I'm still waiting for someone to push it too it's limits..
^ Nissan is junk. sorry.
its all in the tune! forged pistons, mhg, arp everything, fuel, engine management and your easily at 450-500hp reliably. (+tubro of course)
its all in the tune! forged pistons, mhg, arp everything, fuel, engine management and your easily at 450-500hp reliably. (+tubro of course)
I think most people think of a stock (performance) 7MGTE to have stock internals and a properly prepared and installed metal head gasket. These seem pretty reliable up to 400rwhp. I've seen threads where people going above 500rwhp have broken a rod or spun a bearing. My stock 7M has been solid for a couple of years of hard driving at 375rwhp. It even survived lots of knocking at 15psi on 91 octane gas after a dumb mechanic installed the timing belt advanced one tooth which put my base timing around 20-25 degrees.
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I've pushed right around 500rwhp at 24psi (on race gas) every time I went to the track over the last 4 years before I built my new forged 7M. And that was with crude AFC tuning. Never could kill that 7M..
I remember Malloy bending a rod at 540+rwhp. But he was trying to run 25psi on pump gas with methonal injection, while using a piggy back for tuning. Can you say detonation?
I remember Malloy bending a rod at 540+rwhp. But he was trying to run 25psi on pump gas with methonal injection, while using a piggy back for tuning. Can you say detonation?
*james*;1292152 said:
You seem to have missed my point.....
Unless you were there or know someone that was directly involved with some hard data to support this claim I'd file it under "bullshit".
As I said earlier I've never run a stock engine hard but have broken MANY "built" parts and combinations and know exactly how easy it is to do
Slightest thing "wrong" when running hard above 500rwhp and the engine is toast, I would imagine the margin for error is tighter and at a lower level when using stock parts.
I think reliable 450rwhp on stock engine is possilbe with proper tuning. Beyonde 550rwhp even forged is not reliable with our engines.
a_sesshoumaru;1292588 said:
say what?!:umno: Its in the tune, 550whp with a piggy back is not reliable. 550whp with a standalone and competent tuner can equal factory reliability taking into account the overall condition of the motor/fuel etc...
That, and it's a turbo engine. No boost = no power.
1000+ HP boosted engine can drive and behave and last just as long as stock if done correctly.
Most people spend thousands on parts and then cheap out and try to tune it themselves, then they wonder why the "stupid motor" blew up...
1000+ HP boosted engine can drive and behave and last just as long as stock if done correctly.
Most people spend thousands on parts and then cheap out and try to tune it themselves, then they wonder why the "stupid motor" blew up...
Poodles;1292707 said:
If you don't tune yourself/with the good help around SM how are you supposed to learn?
A basic street tune is fine to get it running. For serious power, you better budget for several hours on the dyno to determine your limits. Then, back to the street to refine the tune within those limits.
The original question is for max hp of a stock motor with only a MHG. That means that no forged internals and no head work can be done. Therefore it would appear some of the people being hated on would be correct with their 400-500whp numbers.
I have not heard of more power than that with everything in the long block being stock other than a mhg.
Properly tuned and with reasonable power goals for the amount the motor has been built up, the 7m is a very strong and reliable motor.
I have not heard of more power than that with everything in the long block being stock other than a mhg.
Properly tuned and with reasonable power goals for the amount the motor has been built up, the 7m is a very strong and reliable motor.
jdub;1292818 said:
This is a good point. I'm about to install a 650+ HP capable turbo setup onto my "stock 7M with MHG". I will street tune it myself first to 10psi, then a quick trip to the dyno to find out if and where it knocks at or above 15psi, and below 3800rpm (just in case the spool is insane with the quick spool valve).
I do have a question though. Do the stock pistons usually fail strictly because of heat or detonation? Or have they been known to break even under a good proper tune at 450-500hp? Just wondering if I could get away with a little water/methanol and 94 octane pump gas at 18 psi, to get me around 450hp (after checking for knock and tune at the dyno)