Stinger thread....
- Thread starter rakkasan
- Start date
2 step is just the second rpm limit. For instance I set it to 5000rpm and when activated I put the pedal to the floor and it keeps it at 5000rpm. Once it deactivates then you have your max rpm.
On a side note, I thought u were going AEM?
On a side note, I thought u were going AEM?
I want too but I don't have the monies yet. I may do it in a few months though.........I'm not sure. My car is running pretty good right now, so I don't have many reasons too. The main reason being that I want knock control or at least a way to monitor it. Why can't the Stinger guys come up with a way to monitor knock?
Why don't you just build your own knock monitor? There are tons of DIY threads on the internet that show you how to make such a device. From my standpoint knock control would be nice to have with the ecu but you really need a tuner who knows what he is doing. I would hate for the knock sensors to be picking up engine noise and reducing my timing. With that said, I just get my car hooked up at the dyno with a knock moniter. That way I tune it on the dyno and moniter knock. Then the trick is to keep the car somewhat conservative and hope for the best. Modified cars is risky business and with pump gas you never know if you are going to get a bad batch or inconsistencies.
On a side note, I plan on going AEM Gen 2 or Vipec if I go 1.5jz and bigger turbo.
On a side note, I plan on going AEM Gen 2 or Vipec if I go 1.5jz and bigger turbo.
10secdream;1494378 said:
Well im trying to hook up the Zeitronix to an analog input and create a translation table. I keep getting a "cannot Modify A Closed Data Set" error when trying to make one. If i continue to input values they get input, but not correctly, they dont correlate with the graph and the input signal does not follow set parameters.
I have been trying to contact EMS but it seems every time i call the person i need to speak to about the issue, is busy, and doesn't call back.
The input works, when i data log the raw input value seems to be correct, but i cant make a translation table so instead of looking at A/F Numbers, im looking at a 0-1024 scale of the 0-5 volt signal.
Frustrating but its a small issue, likely with the software.
Anyone else able to make translation tables?
Can anyone here please post or PM me a solid base tune for 1JZ 4424 EM4 in renamed text format.
Please I heard it all there is no such thing go spend 3000-5000 on a dyno etc go buy a shop for a year.
I know you dont want to to change the 1JZ base ignition tune and that is primarly what I am looking for fuel injectors another story.
My setup is factory 1JZ twins factory injectors everything is factory except the exhaust is 3" all the way through so my temps and flow will be a little better and cooler.
Now what I mean by base tune I think static timming is supposed to be 10 but I am not 100% I do know some how they add or negate the ignition table if you can explain a little bit.
I have about 4-5 ecm files, the 2 that come with the stinger software are really bad and generic you can tell just by looking I do have a good ecu file but its for a wolf V500 with single.
There is 2 posted on the AEM sight that look ok or decent.
There is VU's but I cant read it its a bad stream for some reason
Theres Rakis it looks almost perfect from what I remember on the wolf setup
The base tune from aarons tune On this car looks horrid it had enrichment set all the way up to 17% and its pooring fuel like by the gallon into my engine when leaning just 10% on idle it almost sounds feels normal for the 380cc injectors and it quites missing.
Aarons dyno was not at fault this guy had fouled and crap plugs in the car when he sold the car to me the spark and AFRS must have been all over the place that was fixed with plugs.
What I am seriously asking for is the BASE tune as if you read the factory 1JZ ECU un modded what is the exact ignition and timing table I am guessing around 10 static as if you shorted the Test pin and ran the timing I think it goes to base timming the rest of the figures in timing I think will be around 4-(low 20s).
Here is my tunes
Please I heard it all there is no such thing go spend 3000-5000 on a dyno etc go buy a shop for a year.
I know you dont want to to change the 1JZ base ignition tune and that is primarly what I am looking for fuel injectors another story.
My setup is factory 1JZ twins factory injectors everything is factory except the exhaust is 3" all the way through so my temps and flow will be a little better and cooler.
Now what I mean by base tune I think static timming is supposed to be 10 but I am not 100% I do know some how they add or negate the ignition table if you can explain a little bit.
I have about 4-5 ecm files, the 2 that come with the stinger software are really bad and generic you can tell just by looking I do have a good ecu file but its for a wolf V500 with single.
There is 2 posted on the AEM sight that look ok or decent.
There is VU's but I cant read it its a bad stream for some reason
Theres Rakis it looks almost perfect from what I remember on the wolf setup
The base tune from aarons tune On this car looks horrid it had enrichment set all the way up to 17% and its pooring fuel like by the gallon into my engine when leaning just 10% on idle it almost sounds feels normal for the 380cc injectors and it quites missing.
Aarons dyno was not at fault this guy had fouled and crap plugs in the car when he sold the car to me the spark and AFRS must have been all over the place that was fixed with plugs.
What I am seriously asking for is the BASE tune as if you read the factory 1JZ ECU un modded what is the exact ignition and timing table I am guessing around 10 static as if you shorted the Test pin and ran the timing I think it goes to base timming the rest of the figures in timing I think will be around 4-(low 20s).
Here is my tunes
I just wanted to say thank you for everyone here who posted information and maps.
I figured almost everything out.
I figured out you have to punch every value into the stinger cells and hit enter every time for every cell if you fail to do this in the stinger software will spit out your work and not save your changes
I still dont know where the #2 cam sensor sync pulse is in relation to TDC this is crutial for your static timming value Aaron said its 6° I think I remember the TSRM saying ignition static is 10° BTDC I am looking for the factory value not what people managed to tune into the ignition table to get to work.
I Know in order to tune anycar on a standalone you must have the base ignition table from the factory ECU failure to do this will make you spend 10x more money and time at the dyno because the ignition table virtually changes very little.
Here is my tune file it is almost the original oem ecu tune on a 1JZ
this is Premium US gas 380CC factory injectors with just a 3" exhaust.
This isnt a finished product I think its a tiny bit lean on high load end
& a tiny bit rich on idle non load cruise speed.
Ill slope the fuel mixtures better later after I get LC-1 wideband
If anyone wants take a look if you have a factory setup and tell me what you think.
I figured almost everything out.
I figured out you have to punch every value into the stinger cells and hit enter every time for every cell if you fail to do this in the stinger software will spit out your work and not save your changes
I still dont know where the #2 cam sensor sync pulse is in relation to TDC this is crutial for your static timming value Aaron said its 6° I think I remember the TSRM saying ignition static is 10° BTDC I am looking for the factory value not what people managed to tune into the ignition table to get to work.
I Know in order to tune anycar on a standalone you must have the base ignition table from the factory ECU failure to do this will make you spend 10x more money and time at the dyno because the ignition table virtually changes very little.
Here is my tune file it is almost the original oem ecu tune on a 1JZ
this is Premium US gas 380CC factory injectors with just a 3" exhaust.
This isnt a finished product I think its a tiny bit lean on high load end
& a tiny bit rich on idle non load cruise speed.
Ill slope the fuel mixtures better later after I get LC-1 wideband
If anyone wants take a look if you have a factory setup and tell me what you think.
You dont necessarily need the factory timing map as most engines need roughly the same timing slope. I run a max advance of 35 degrees at 3krpm 0psi load. I run 16 degrees at idle with -9.7psi load. My timing map drops roughly 1 degree of timing per PSI of boost. I copied most of my map from IJ's map and it runs pretty well. Im going to get it tuned on a dyno when i find a shop i trust.
When tuning the timing on a dyno, if the operator/tuner is good it wont take too many pulls to find where the engine is happy, even from scratch. How much time you spend on the dyno is directly proportional to how precise you want the tune to be. Im looking for conservative. Ill leave 20-30 horsepower out of the car for a safe ignition advance. Because of this i wont spend as much time on the dyno as once i find the happy spot, i pull a few degrees and call it a day.
When tuning the timing on a dyno, if the operator/tuner is good it wont take too many pulls to find where the engine is happy, even from scratch. How much time you spend on the dyno is directly proportional to how precise you want the tune to be. Im looking for conservative. Ill leave 20-30 horsepower out of the car for a safe ignition advance. Because of this i wont spend as much time on the dyno as once i find the happy spot, i pull a few degrees and call it a day.
Hey guys. I recently tried to get my car tuned they didn't have a cable that could connect from the computer to the Stinger. They went out and bought an adapter to convert the male end to a female. I guess making it a double female db9 cable. The program would not recognize the ECU at all and it kept saying "Wrong ECU". Is there actually a special Stinger cable? Or can I go and buy one at Radioshack?
Ill tell you what i use.
Name brand Belkin USB-Serial adapter on my assus EEPC it set the serial com port to [4]
From what i heard its the best garenteed to work with stinger & innovative LC-1 and other stand alone systems.
Name brand Belkin USB-Serial adapter on my assus EEPC it set the serial com port to [4]
From what i heard its the best garenteed to work with stinger & innovative LC-1 and other stand alone systems.
A serial cable came with the stinger unit when i bought mine, the end on the EMS box is not compatible with a regular cable. It also depends if the cable is crossover or not.
I am planning my Stinger installation as I can not waste anymore precious summer hours tinkering with splicing factory wires. Although I like the cool colors in the 100+ pin toyota harness and am fairly decent at wiring, I need my 2JZGE-T running and on the road. I would love some advice from the guys here that have had success wiring the Stinger up on their own. Currently I am planning on taking out the stock SC300 distributor, and replacing it with my old but working 7MGTE-CPS. as far as ignition goes.... what is the best setup to choose.
On my workbench I have...
7MGTE Coilpacks
7MGTE Ignitor
2JZ-GE (SC300) Ignitor
2JZ-GE VVTi (IS300) Coil Packs (3)
2JZ-GE VVTi (IS300) Igniter
What is the best combination to get this car fired up and driveable.
Thanks! (BTW.... just read all 32pages!)
On my workbench I have...
7MGTE Coilpacks
7MGTE Ignitor
2JZ-GE (SC300) Ignitor
2JZ-GE VVTi (IS300) Coil Packs (3)
2JZ-GE VVTi (IS300) Igniter
What is the best combination to get this car fired up and driveable.
Thanks! (BTW.... just read all 32pages!)
Cant say much about a 2JZ specifically other then whats working on my 7M.
Im currently running a 3000GT 3 channel ignitor and 7M GTE coil packs. Im planning on running no ignitor and LSX coils in the future as there a hotter coil and have built in ignitors.
If you already have the 2JZ stuff i would run that, Though like i said i dont know much about the 2JZ ignitor. The 3000GT ignitor is 3 channel non multiplex and works better with the stinger then the 7M ignitor that is multiplexed.
I have herd the 2JZ coils are hotter then the 7M coils. If your going to do it, do it once as making the harness again will be a pain. Im not looking forward to re-making the ignition harness when i go Lsx coils.
Im currently running a 3000GT 3 channel ignitor and 7M GTE coil packs. Im planning on running no ignitor and LSX coils in the future as there a hotter coil and have built in ignitors.
If you already have the 2JZ stuff i would run that, Though like i said i dont know much about the 2JZ ignitor. The 3000GT ignitor is 3 channel non multiplex and works better with the stinger then the 7M ignitor that is multiplexed.
I have herd the 2JZ coils are hotter then the 7M coils. If your going to do it, do it once as making the harness again will be a pain. Im not looking forward to re-making the ignition harness when i go Lsx coils.
Thanks, ideally i would like to use my is300 coilpacks and is300 igniter. (Newer parts) i will see if i can identify details around the vvti components and how they are triggered. But will they be compatible with the 7mgte cps, or doea that hook up independently to the stinger
EDIT: After Reading funkycheeze, jmcboost and Hottscenessey's threads, I am going to stick with the IS300 coilpacks and the DH61 IS300 igniter.... now I just have to find the damn Igniter plug off a crashed IS300.
EDIT: After Reading funkycheeze, jmcboost and Hottscenessey's threads, I am going to stick with the IS300 coilpacks and the DH61 IS300 igniter.... now I just have to find the damn Igniter plug off a crashed IS300.
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The 7m CPS is just a trigger on an input of the stinger, it functions independently of the ignition components on the ignition output triggers.
cool got it thanks..... what about the starter? did you have to integrate that single blue wire square plug from the engine harness? I a mnot sure if that somehow plays a role in the starter relay? Know what plug Im talkin about? you kinda always break your wrist tryin to get it out 
I wired my starter bypassing the neutral safety switch just to get my car going. I ran the wire from the dash harness where the stock TCCS is threw the firewall to the starter wire.
Eventually im going to integrate the wire threw the neutral safety switch as its only a few inches away from the connector and it would just run in series between the starter and the trigger wire.
Eventually im going to integrate the wire threw the neutral safety switch as its only a few inches away from the connector and it would just run in series between the starter and the trigger wire.
Nosechunks;1606352 said:
Hmm, I cant visualize that.... right now I have a 10gauge switched 12v coming from fuse box in engine bay and that goes to the Big square plug input next to ECU under dash. I can only assume that somewhere in the stock harness a signal of some sort is sent to the starter solenoid what houses that lone single thin gauge wire from the stock engine harness when the ignition is turned. I have my 12v switched source, I guess I have to sort out how to trigger the starter without the factory harness. (maybe run the starter relay signal wires directly from the relay through the firewall on drivers side to the starter solenoid input {Black/Blue wire} )
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