Still having power drain problem, help please. Pics inside

aloshan

night ryda
Dec 7, 2010
349
0
0
Sydney, Australia, Australia
briggsy;1777892 said:
take the car to an auto electrician, problem will be fixed

did that today , this is how I found out which circuit the power was being pulled from. Apparently these cars are so uncommon that for him to locate the source of the drain would require him to trace electrical diagrams , will take him forever and cost me alot of money (as labour is by the hour). going to continue to attempt to find the source of the drain myself.thanks for the helpful advice though.....
 

aloshan

night ryda
Dec 7, 2010
349
0
0
Sydney, Australia, Australia
so I know the power is draining from my ignition circuit.(drain stops when 30A FL2 fuse is pulled) .Been tracing the ignition circuit but not having much luck understanding the TSRM to disconnect parts yet.( i am electronically challenged)

a) could it possibly be my ignition switch draining power when the car is off? Note that when the key is in the off position, the dash and everything else seems to be visibly off.

b) does anyone know of any auto elec that is capable /willing to take my car( or has experience with 80's toyotas) As you can tell finding this problem is clearly beyond my scope , im sick of this problem still existing for the past 6 months and im sick of the incomptent auto elecs I give it to who just cant find the problem. Ive even narrowed it down to a single fuse....which still isnt enough. The last auto elec told me that he can find the power drain but its going to take a long time and probably cost me $500 +....

24gtvfn.jpg


looking at the text above, does it mean that either the

- noise filter

or

- ignitor

or

- ignition coil

is drawing power (since the efi resister cant be the cause of the current drain) Am I thinking right?
 
Last edited:

jetjock

creepy-ass cracka
Jul 11, 2005
9,439
0
0
Redacted per Title 18 USC Section 798
Unless the ignition switch is bad all that stuff is dead when the key is off. A simple way to verify that portion of the ignition switch is to verify there's no charge warning light with the key off. You could always unplug the coil packs, igniter, and injector resistor but if the charge light is off that part of the circuit should be dead.

If no joy try leaving AM2 in and pulling the EFI fuse. That'll narrow things down. Course, that's assuming the wiring is still factory.

Any auto electric guy with the slightest ability to work on modern cars will find a stock MKIII child's play. If the wiring has been modified it gets tougher but not by much...