Stater Relay questions (help)

Turbo Habanero

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Apr 28, 2009
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I have just a couple of questions.

I can not find the Brown Clip on the starter is it under?

Does anyone know the color of the original starter wire? Am i sapost to run the other wire directly into the starter wire ?

As i know i am just ruing one wire to a brown clip and another to the starter wire and battery and a ground anything i am missing?
 

Turbo Habanero

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Apr 28, 2009
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This is what i am going off of but that thread was to old to use so i made this one.
Idealsupra;1081532 said:
INTRO TO PROBLEM:​

I figured I would post a little public service announcement to hopefully help some people and save them the aggravation of trying to replace a starter multiple times and not fixing the problem.

My car had been randomly "not cranking" over the past few weeks. It was getting worse and left me stranded numerous times. Although it is a manual so I was normally able to recruit some guys to give me a push for me to pop it and be on my way.

Of course the normal response around here is the starter contacts are worn/bad. Sure this MIGHT be the case, however I would bet more often its something a LOT simpler to deal with and correct.

There ARE random threads on this site and others that have this in them and they are great tool. I figured maybe one more isnt a bad thing as there are more "Help my car isnt starting randomly" threads then I could sift through.

Ok so enough rambling. Here you go. If you are having problems with your car not cranking (yet youre hearing a click at the starter relay, and a "thicker" click at the starter area), then try this. DO THE 30AMP RELAY MOD. SERIOUSLY.

WHY THIS IS A PROBLEM:​

Basically, the old wiring and the setup of the stock starting circuit causes the voltage getting to the starter simply not enough at times. (Thanks IJ) The stock wire from the IGN side to the starter energizes the bendix and it's copper contacts and ring complete the motor circuit.

What happens though is not enough current to hold these contacts causes arcing so it just gets worse and worse.

SHOPPING LIST:​

To correct this (and basically enhance your starting circuit along the way), simply go to Advance Auto Parts and get the following:

  • 30AMP Relay- 4 prong self enclosed and it has a spot for a screw for mounting.
  • Spool of 10 gauge wire. 12 gauge would be ok as well but I prefer to be safe then sorry.
  • Spade connectors for said gauge wire
  • Loop connectors for said gauge wire

DIRECTIONS TO MODIFY AND CORRECT THIS PROBLEM:​

DISCONNECT NEGATIVE BATTERY TERMINAL

Now find a place to mount the relay. I put mine down by the starter almost right off the framerail. I used one of the 10mm bolts that holds on one of the little shields.

Now take the wire and connectors and make:

  • 1(A)- loop end connector---> spade connector. Length is from wherever you mount the relay to the positive battery terminal.
  • 1(B)- spade end connector---> spade end connector. Length is from wherever you mount the relay to the terminal with the spade connector on the starter. Its encased by a brown "clip".
  • 1(C) spade end connector----> loop end connector. Length is from wherever you mount the relay to a body ground. Theres a lot of random 10mm bolt holes that you can use for this.

Connect (A) to the input side of the switch on the relay.

Connect (B) to the open side of the switch on the relay and the other side of (B) to the starter terminal (brown clip).

Connect (C) to either side of the coil on the relay and ground other side of (C) to the body.

Take the clip/wire (should be black with blue stripe) that normally goes to the starter and connect it to the other side of the coil on the relay.

Finally connect the other end of (A) to the positive terminal on the battery.

REATTACH NEGATIVE BATTERY TERMINAL

WIRING DIAGRAMS:

sm_photo_missing.jpg


Thats it. Ill bet doing this solves MOST of the starting problems out there. Its about a 30 minute job at most and only costs a total of about $15 if you need to buy everything.

I hope this helps. If someone does this and would like to take pictures from start to finish they can be added. Im going to be doing this to another Supra in a couple of weeks so if theres nothing by then I can do it myself.
 

iwannadie

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Jul 28, 2006
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The brown clip is under the starter, easy to get to from under the car. Its a pain to cut that wire and leave enough room to extend it though.

I had a click but no start and tried this relay(against my better judgment) and it didn't work, a new starter solved my issue.
 

CyFi6

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The starter trigger wire tends to get high resistance in it, causing the starter to click, but doesn't allow enough current to pull the plunger hard enough to allow it to crank, so you are just allowing a new wire to go directly from the battery to the starter trigger spade
 

iwannadie

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CyFi6;1358091 said:
No need to cut it, the connector should slide right onto your standard automotive relay

My wire didn't reach very far at all, at least not where I wanted the relay to sit. Its not a huge pain, just might be a hassle for some so I figured it was worth mentioning before someone goes at it blind.
 

CyFi6

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There's a bolt in the lower intake manifold that holds a VSV, doesn't screw through the upper manifold itself, but i found that was a good spot for my relay, just have to drill the mounting hole in the relay a little bigger and the starter wire reaches etc
 

CyFi6

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Blue starter wire thats currently connected to your starter goes to "1", I dont know what else you want clarified the description and picture really says it all...
 

Kckazdude

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CyFi6;1358116 said:
The starter trigger wire tends to get high resistance in it, causing the starter to click, but doesn't allow enough current to pull the plunger hard enough to allow it to crank, so you are just allowing a new wire to go directly from the battery to the starter trigger spade

Meh, if you say so. Have you ever tested this theory or is this more regurgitation from previuos threads? I ask because the reasoning behind putting a relay into a relay circuit is still flawed.
 

Kckazdude

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Now that I am home I will post my thoughts on this subject. Using the MKIII TSRM as a reference.....
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TEWD/MK3/manual.aspx?S=Main&P=038

You can see that the theft deterent computer is the ground source for the factory relay. This has been a point of fault that I have witnessed and confirmed with voltage drop tests. To eliminate the problem, follow the Canadian A/T wiring and eliminate the relay or add a direct ground from the relay, as referenced in the Canadian M/T diagram.
 

iwannadie

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I thought the idea behind it is the old wiring has such high resistance that it can't properly trigger the starter. You add the relay which only needs a tiny bit of juice to be triggered. The relay ties directly to the motor to provide the starter the actual juice it needs to be fired. Its not a fix, just a band-aid to make use of the crippled wiring until it goes totally .

Thats just my guess based on what I read, I am no electrical guru.
 

jetjock

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Jul 11, 2005
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Kckazdude: Good for you. While the alarm relay isn't always at fault if others bothered to employ that simple measurement technique they'd find it's almost never the actual wiring. At least it's never been on the cars I've repaired after removing this hack and it has never been at fault on my car with it's 22 year old harness. And even if the wiring is suspect it takes all of 30 seconds to prove whether it's the culprit or not.
 

NAS

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Turbo Habanero;1359891 said:
Wiring or not this was just a place for people to get help on how to do this to there car if they choose to and need it.

well i thought about doing this fix because mine had the same problems even tho i replaced my starter. but then i thought why jerry rig the car... id rather just solve the problem for good... so i just hooked up the starter on a push button. problems solved...