starting trouble..
- Thread starter full_thr0ttle
- Start date
OK, people. Toyota (and other cars too) had a problem in the 80's with what is called "a hard start problem after sitting for a couple of hours" (actually I can't remember the real name).
Main cause: the intake valves have built up carbon deposits on the back sides. When the car sits (off) for a while, the fuel that has soaked into this carbon (like a sponge) evaporates away. Now when you go to start the car, this carbon soaks up the initial fuel coming in. (injectors spray it right on them) Thats why it will usually start the 2nd or 3rd attempt, because they have soaked up enough fuel (sponge is full) to let a full charge of fuel into the combustion chamber.
I was the tune-up & engine trouble shooter tech at a toy dealer in the 80's. Toys 'official' fix: remove the head and de-carbon the valves. Big $$$.....
Todays solution......go to a shop and have what is called an "air induction system flush (cleaning)". They will use some very strong cleaner with their equipment, and ad a very strong fuel additive to the tank.
After that, the best tank additive is called Techron (black bottle, made by Chevron). Auto parts stores and Walmart sell it. Use as directed, on a couple of tanks.
I don't think this is your problem, but here is some more info.......
Toys also had problems with the cold start injector 'timer switch'. On some models they had updated ones 1-2-3x.
The cold start timer allows current to flow to the injector when the coolant temp, at the highest, is below approx 86*F. But only when the engine is cranking. So..when you park it and then want to start it a while later, the coolant temp may still be up (air temp level or more), so no cold start injector operation.
Also, its called a timer because it will only allow current to flow to the CSI for 15 seconds or less. There is a 'heater' inside it to do this. That way you can't flood the engine.
If you have trouble starting in the winter, this is probably the cause. I NEVER have had to replace a CSI.
PS. The time switch is big $$$.
Main cause: the intake valves have built up carbon deposits on the back sides. When the car sits (off) for a while, the fuel that has soaked into this carbon (like a sponge) evaporates away. Now when you go to start the car, this carbon soaks up the initial fuel coming in. (injectors spray it right on them) Thats why it will usually start the 2nd or 3rd attempt, because they have soaked up enough fuel (sponge is full) to let a full charge of fuel into the combustion chamber.
I was the tune-up & engine trouble shooter tech at a toy dealer in the 80's. Toys 'official' fix: remove the head and de-carbon the valves. Big $$$.....
Todays solution......go to a shop and have what is called an "air induction system flush (cleaning)". They will use some very strong cleaner with their equipment, and ad a very strong fuel additive to the tank.
After that, the best tank additive is called Techron (black bottle, made by Chevron). Auto parts stores and Walmart sell it. Use as directed, on a couple of tanks.
I don't think this is your problem, but here is some more info.......
Toys also had problems with the cold start injector 'timer switch'. On some models they had updated ones 1-2-3x.
The cold start timer allows current to flow to the injector when the coolant temp, at the highest, is below approx 86*F. But only when the engine is cranking. So..when you park it and then want to start it a while later, the coolant temp may still be up (air temp level or more), so no cold start injector operation.
Also, its called a timer because it will only allow current to flow to the CSI for 15 seconds or less. There is a 'heater' inside it to do this. That way you can't flood the engine.
If you have trouble starting in the winter, this is probably the cause. I NEVER have had to replace a CSI.
PS. The time switch is big $$$.
thats how i figured i'd check for spark, but wasnt sure if there was any otehr way or not.. i checked it, and im getting full spark..
approximately how much does it cost to do the 'air induction system' cleaning? Is there anything that i can do myself to give me similar results or can it only be done at a shop?
i had a feeling it was something to do with a fuel problem, but i wasnt too sure... but how about those few times wen the car refused to crank at all? the relay clicked, but nothing would happen, eventually it would crank though...
approximately how much does it cost to do the 'air induction system' cleaning? Is there anything that i can do myself to give me similar results or can it only be done at a shop?
i had a feeling it was something to do with a fuel problem, but i wasnt too sure... but how about those few times wen the car refused to crank at all? the relay clicked, but nothing would happen, eventually it would crank though...
The cleaning at the shop I work in is $129.95 retail. I did it to my car about 2 months before I did a head gasket. It was cleaner inside the intake system, but the sides of the wall were stained with black. I did not see the back sides of my valves before the machine shop did the valve jod, so I could not say how clean it 'looked'. But I've always used an injector cleaner every 2-3 months, and it has always started instantly.
Just clicking sounds when trying to start may be the solenoid.
Just clicking sounds when trying to start may be the solenoid.
great thanks a lot.. i'll try an injector cleaner first and see what happens, maybe it will help, even if just a bit..