Starting issues on 1jt-gte

[ret]

Because I'm sure someone will look back on this... :nono:

Problem solved, BigAaron was dead on with the starter switch, thanks a lot man.

 

[89toy]

It could be a couple of thing. first check ur spark plug and ignitors, if not that check ur timing on the car to see if it on correctly.

 

[thedave925]

If the starter spins but doesn't catch your crankshaft to turn over the motor, your starter solenoid isn't doing its job. BTW do you have the TSRM? PM me your email and I'll be happy to send you the pdf. It'll tell you everything about your Supra except the engine itself, which is JZ and not 7M. LMK,
-Dave

 

[ret]

Thanks, but nothing doing yet.

A little update, I replaced the battery today (was bad, for what it's worth), but the problem continues. The starter is clicking, but not spinning. Worst part, it's sitting in a Food Lion Parking lot for the night. Any ideas?

 

[Big Wang Bandit]

My 1jz does the same thing. Im gonna replace the starter.

 

[ret]

I've replaced mine twice, two different starters, and still nothing. The thing that pisses me off the most is that 9 times out of 10 it starts just fine, it's just in that time frame that it decides to be a bitch.

 

[Big Wang Bandit]

Ever consider heat soak?

 

[The Reaper]

or wiring?

 

[ret]

Wiring I've had on my mind for a while. I'm going up to Salem this weekend to check it out.

Heat soak?

 

[bigaaron]

It's the keyswitch! They go bad and become intermittent. After replacing two starters and the same problem it's time to look elsewhere for the issue.

Step 1, check the battery.
Put the volt meter across the battery terminals and crank the engine, the voltage should remain above 10v when cranking. A good battery will stay closer to (or above) 11v.

Step 2, check all the grounds.
Put the positive lead of the volt meter on the battery negative terminal, and put the negative lead on the engine block. Crank the engine and watch the volt meter. The voltage should remain very low, under 1v. Do the same test from the battery negative to the body. If it is higher then 1v, you have bad ground connections from the battery to the engine and/or body. If you have very good grounds it will be closer to 0.1v when cranking.

step 3, keyswitch test (now we know the battery is good)
There is an easy way to check if it is the keyswitch. Put a volt meter on the black/white wire coming out of the keyswitch to the right of the steering column where it connects to the body harness. Try to start it and see if the voltage drops to almost 0 when you cry to crank it and hear the starter clicking, if it does drop under 10v when switched to the crank position you have a bad keyswitch. You can also do the same test at the starter itself on the blue wire that connects to the starter solenoid. If the voltage stays above about 10v when cranking, but the starter is not cranking, it could be a bad starter. Do the same test on the main battery input on the starter also. If the voltage stays above 10v when cranking on both wires going to the starter, and it's not cranking, then you know you have a bad starter.



EVERYONE needs a voltmeter!!! It the best tool you can buy for electrical issues.

 

[soapra]

What he said! ^

 

[ret]

It's the keyswitch! They go bad and become intermittent. After replacing two starters and the same problem it's time to look elsewhere for the issue.

Step 1, check the battery.
Put the volt meter across the battery terminals and crank the engine, the voltage should remain above 10v when cranking. A good battery will stay closer to (or above) 11v.

Step 2, check all the grounds.
Put the positive lead of the volt meter on the battery negative terminal, and put the negative lead on the engine block. Crank the engine and watch the volt meter. The voltage should remain very low, under 1v. Do the same test from the battery negative to the body. If it is higher then 1v, you have bad ground connections from the battery to the engine and/or body. If you have very good grounds it will be closer to 0.1v when cranking.

step 3, keyswitch test (now we know the battery is good)
There is an easy way to check if it is the keyswitch. Put a volt meter on the black/white wire coming out of the keyswitch to the right of the steering column where it connects to the body harness. Try to start it and see if the voltage drops to almost 0 when you cry to crank it and hear the starter clicking, if it does drop under 10v when switched to the crank position you have a bad keyswitch. You can also do the same test at the starter itself on the blue wire that connects to the starter solenoid. If the voltage stays above about 10v when cranking, it could be a bad starter. Do the same test on the main battery input on the starter also. If the voltage stays above 10v when cranking on both wires going to the starter, and it's not cranking, then you know you have a bad starter.



EVERYONE needs a voltmeter!!! It the best tool you can buy for electrical issues.

Hm, never would've expected the keyswitch. I'll have to check that out this weekend.

 

[ret]

I think I've narrowed it down to the keyswitch. Any way to tell if it's just the keyswitch that needs replacing, or the entire ignition console? That's $420 I don't have to spend.

 

[Big Wang Bandit]

Check your ignition harness

Do you have a turbo timer?

 

[ret]

No turbo timer. Need to pick one up.

 

[tissimo]

Time for a push button start!.. did that on my buddys car when his was going out..

if its a 86-87 use the headlight squirter button, works great.. in the right location too!

 

[Big Wang Bandit]

Well see my car wouldnt start on the first few tries and then voila it goes. I thought my starter was going out. So i went and bought one.

But i also had a busted apexi turbo timer. Grounds were messed up and wires were loose so once i removed it the car started perfectly every time.

I just installed my HKS TT and i made sure all grounds were good and it still works fine.

Butttt it sounds like you are having trouble with the keyswitch =/

 

[bigaaron]

The keyswitch is held in with a phillips screw and it's easy to replace. Buy a new one from Toyota or go to a wrecking yard and pick one up. You don't have to change the lock and key, the switch is a separate unit. I changed one out in about 5 minutes a little while back.

 

[ret]

Around how much should a new keyswitch cost? Assuming I'm thinking of the same thing, Autozone can get me one for around $55.

Also, it's an 89 so no headlight sprayers, though a push button would be nice, I definitely wouldn't mind looking into something like that, but I have some other things that are more important to take care of first, like a manual trans...