Starting build soon

7Matt-GE

Member
Nov 18, 2009
407
0
16
Becker, Minnesota
as of next weekend the surpa goes under the knife. there are A LOT of things i need to do in prep. for this craziness and i've been searching around for over a year now on what i can and what i shouldn't do with this car.

obviously im going to start at the engine part of this mess im going N/A-T (mainly cause paying for it gradually is more affordable for me than it is to shit out some money for a GTE cause no one seems to wanna let their's go for under 500 :D but im a cheap bastard like that.) so obviously basic machine shop work needs to be done. which leads me to my question at hand.


what do you guy's recommend i do for a reliable 7m? obviously i have factored in some of it.

1. getting the head and block milled for a MHG
2. inspecting the block and head for cracks
3. clean every nook and cranny.

what other extra stuff should i do? what have you done? common issues after builds?

p.s. i love you guys.

28254-145854-robotlovejpg-620x.jpg
 

Chambers

Now you know
Sep 9, 2007
981
0
0
35
Baltimore County, Maryland
Look over your wiring harness, there may be some exposed wires near the sharp bends, and I would say its a safe bet that a lot of the conduit has dried out and is starting to crack apart. If you plan on replacing the conduit I suggest picking up some High Temp Wiring Loom from this place: http://www.wiringproducts.com/contents/en-us/d228.html I purchased a good amount of the Nylon High Temperature Wire Loom from them, I have used it on my 1UZ swap and a few other odd electrical projects and been very pleased.

Bag and tag everything you remove as getting it right after a few days/ weeks may be hard. On my first head gasket I bagged and tagged everything, I ended up removing a lot more stuff then I needed but It was a great learning experience and I'm better for it! I used zip-lock bags and a sharpie, sat everything in the back of the car while working on it.

Make sure to read up on the TSRM, that will give you valuable information that you might otherwise overlook, like the dab of silicone on the deck near the inner timing cover when putting the head back on, stuff like that.

http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/default.aspx

There are plenty more things to look for, but I figure I would give a little to think about. Good luck!
 

radiod

Supramania Contributor
Dec 13, 2007
1,342
0
0
38
Abbotsford, BC
Also get the head hardness tested. The head on the 7M has a tendancy to anneal (soften) if subjected to high heat (ie. blown head gasket) at any point of it's life. With the annealing you'll get things happening like exhaust studs stripping out of the head (which could just be due to a long life of hot exhaust gases passing by) but also an increased risk of cracking in the softer spots. If the metal has become too soft, doesn't matter if you do everything right, you'll end up tearing it all apart again shortly. A machine shop should be able to do this test for you.
 

7Matt-GE

Member
Nov 18, 2009
407
0
16
Becker, Minnesota
good idea! i will do that. what about the crank? is it common to have things done to that? mine's never given me problems it's smooth as hell but it's just a thought.
 

Koenigturbo

Active Member
Oct 4, 2006
1,337
0
36
Oxnard CA
The head has a tendency to have stripped exhaust threads, you may want to helicoil them. While I'm the subject, A.P.R bolts/ studs are a cool item. Are you gonna run oil squirters for the pistons?
 

mecevans

Supramania Contributor
Jan 18, 2009
1,295
0
0
M-bay, cali
i broke down my NA-T into different points of concern. Im keeping the high compression so preventing detonation is my main concern.

Fuel- walbro,fuel filter, flow tested and clean injectors
Electronics- recondition wiring harness. check for cracks broken wires and use coax for knock sensors. rebuilt cps, new plugs and wires
Cooling- ebay silicone rad hoses and will be buying on of the cheaper rads from here
Seals- ebay gasket kit with toyota for the important ones, stock HG
Head-shim valves, bbc springs, arp studs
Oiling system- canton 90 filter adapter, wix 51155 filter, shimmed and lowered ge pump and maybe pan kickouts. dm na-t oil lines
Intercooler- will be stock form now
Exhaust- ebay 3in dp stock catback
Turbo-stock ct26 with ported wastegate dm cone filter

i printed out the diagrams from the tsrm and had to order allot of misc bolts. took a long time to go through it all and decide what route i was going to take

---------- Post added at 10:10 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:08 AM ----------

Koenigturbo;1592628 said:
The head has a tendency to have stripped exhaust threads, you may want to helicoil them. While I'm the subject, A.P.R bolts/ studs are a cool item. Are you gonna run oil squirters for the pistons?

GE's dont have squirters
 

7Matt-GE

Member
Nov 18, 2009
407
0
16
Becker, Minnesota
mecevans;1592636 said:
i broke down my NA-T into different points of concern. Im keeping the high compression so preventing detonation is my main concern.

Fuel- walbro,fuel filter, flow tested and clean injectors
Electronics- recondition wiring harness. check for cracks broken wires and use coax for knock sensors. rebuilt cps, new plugs and wires
Cooling- ebay silicone rad hoses and will be buying on of the cheaper rads from here
Seals- ebay gasket kit with toyota for the important ones, stock HG
Head-shim valves, bbc springs, arp studs
Oiling system- canton 90 filter adapter, wix 51155 filter, shimmed and lowered ge pump and maybe pan kickouts. dm na-t oil lines
Intercooler- will be stock form now
Exhaust- ebay 3in dp stock catback
Turbo-stock ct26 with ported wastegate dm cone filter

i printed out the diagrams from the tsrm and had to order allot of misc bolts. took a long time to go through it all and decide what route i was going to take

---------- Post added at 10:10 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:08 AM ----------



GE's dont have squirters


believe you me, i know how you feel hahaha. i was thinking about getting some probe forged turbo pistons and a MHG mainly because i have no effing idea what my power goals are. im going to try and stick to the 250 to 300 whp range just so i can keep my turbo ecu i don't wanna do anything outside of that till i get some real moolah then its 550 whp time.

i was also thinking about getting that gasket kit from DM its a pretty nice setup and not bad on the price!

thanks for the tips man!

as for the oil squirters, ill probably go 2jz or 1uzfe by the time i get a better job and some more income :)
 

7Matt-GE

Member
Nov 18, 2009
407
0
16
Becker, Minnesota
i wonder, i know normal gte pistons are interchangeable. i guess you can only take the words "standard size" with a grain of salt lol. well i don't mind boring out either. we will see :) depends on how much my machine shop will run me when i do all this stuff.