starter removal tips?
- Thread starter snyder250
- Start date
Yes, the 91-92 starter is the same, but only it has threaded holes. It makes the job much easier, since you no longer have to fool with holding the bolt, the starter, and the nuts. It's still not fun to change either way. That top bolt is hard to get to no matter what, but at least with threaded hole, you don't have to get a bolt and a nut up there.
BTW........I have a threaded starter for sale if the parts store doesn't have the threaded version. $25 +$10 shipping in the states.
BTW........I have a threaded starter for sale if the parts store doesn't have the threaded version. $25 +$10 shipping in the states.
jrot;1667720 said:
The later model is definitely easier to install. However, we're talking about minutes here, at most. Takes me ~15 minutes for the tough one, ~10 minutes for the easy one.
GrimJack;1667785 said:
Yeah my thoughts exactly... I have never put in the newer style, but never thought the older (my 88) style was a big deal... Sure would not make any modifications to make it easier, but everyone has there pet peeves...
I did so much in and out with starters my fiance and I had it down to 20 minute R&R. For the nut on the back where it contacts the bell housing the best wrench is a ratcheting box end swivel head wrench, but a normal wreck will work fine just takes a little more fangdangling to get in on. Then on the bottom bolt I used a 3/8" drive ratchet to crack it loose and then switched to a really short 1/4" drive so it easily cleared the frame rails. On the top bolt I used a 12" extension and a 6" extension. I got it down to where I could do it by myself but it's 15x easier to have a helper. Another big thing that helps is that bar on the under side of the car that is about 1" diameter that goes from frame rail to frame rail one bolt each side, take it out, gives you one less thing to wrap your arm around, one less thing to fit the starter past, helped me fit two hands in there, and if you really want you could paint it lol. And to put the top bolt in I put it in my socket on the 12" extension then held the starter in place while I pushed that through the whole, then I applied enough pressure on the extension to hold the starter up and put the nut on. All in all the first time sucks but after that it's easy.
Definitely think this should be a sticky as well
Definitely think this should be a sticky as well
I'm glad I'm not the only person having problems with this rediculously overcomplecated job. I went to do mine last night and after penetrating lube and twenty minutes of trying to pull just a little bit harder and break it loose, I somehow rounded the whole nut off. Should have used a six point socket. Planning on picking one of those up today and praying it comes off.
I use one of these from under the car, with a short socket and a swivel on the end. The ratchet side is 1/2" drive and the socket side is 3/8" drive. It's much stronger than a 3/8" extension so it doesn't flex and pop and bust your knuckles when the bolt/nut breaks loose.
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item...roup_ID=674902&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog
Works great to take the bell housing bolts out too.
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item...roup_ID=674902&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog
Works great to take the bell housing bolts out too.
HA! Just stumbled upon this thread. I'm glad to see I'm not the only one who has called the engineers really bad names. When I dropped my GTE in I didn't bother installing the starter first...figured it would go in fine after I get the motor in place (I dropped it in with the tranny attached)...boy what a surprise I had when I tried installing that bitch! Lesson learned...starter goes on BEFORE I drop another motor in.
jrot;1667720 said:
It should work just fine.
shaeff;1398076 said:This, but I just unplug the battery and leave the alternator in.
Remove the alternator to get to the bolt and nut easier. :slap: