hi im trying to remove my 7mgte starter and i cant seem to lossen the top bolt from under or on top of the car.is there a trick to geting it off? thank you
starter removal tips?
- Thread starter snyder250
- Start date
From the bottom is how I do it...little elbow grease and can do attitude!
Can also get a friend...6" socket extension plus 4" extension...you get under the car and hold the socket on the nut while your friend reaches blindly from the top to turn the ratchet...
Can also get a friend...6" socket extension plus 4" extension...you get under the car and hold the socket on the nut while your friend reaches blindly from the top to turn the ratchet...
Here's what I do, and it's not as crazy as it sounds.
Loosen your motor mounts, but don't remove the nuts. Support your tranny with a jack, and remover the 4 bolts holding the tranny support to the body. Lower the jack, and let the motor rock back,creating a little more space to work (Be careful her to not let your fan get into your radiator, ie..lower jack slowly). Then use about 2 feet of extensions, and go in behind the slave cylinder and over the tranny to the bolt. You may also need a swivel at the bolt to tilt your socket down to the bolt.
Hint 1.......If you want to make this a bit easier for next time, find a used 91-92 starter. They have threaded bolt holes, so you don't have to turn a bolt AND a nut.
Hint 2.......Be careful with that starter once you get it loose. It is very close to the rear knock sensor, and it is easy to break the knock sensor removing the starter.
Loosen your motor mounts, but don't remove the nuts. Support your tranny with a jack, and remover the 4 bolts holding the tranny support to the body. Lower the jack, and let the motor rock back,creating a little more space to work (Be careful her to not let your fan get into your radiator, ie..lower jack slowly). Then use about 2 feet of extensions, and go in behind the slave cylinder and over the tranny to the bolt. You may also need a swivel at the bolt to tilt your socket down to the bolt.
Hint 1.......If you want to make this a bit easier for next time, find a used 91-92 starter. They have threaded bolt holes, so you don't have to turn a bolt AND a nut.
Hint 2.......Be careful with that starter once you get it loose. It is very close to the rear knock sensor, and it is easy to break the knock sensor removing the starter.
I swear that on my track car, I am going to cut a huge hole in the firewall,
and make a replacement pannel, just to do this easier.
The first time was the worst (lot of calling Japanese engineres #&@&ing idiots, etc.).
But I can do it pretty quickly now with wrench combinations I have aquired just for it, and a helper.
12" extension & socket for the top bolt, with a 'starter wrench' (the U-shaped type) on the top nut.
This is off course a 2-man job the way I do it, unless you have really long arms.........
and make a replacement pannel, just to do this easier.
The first time was the worst (lot of calling Japanese engineres #&@&ing idiots, etc.).
But I can do it pretty quickly now with wrench combinations I have aquired just for it, and a helper.
12" extension & socket for the top bolt, with a 'starter wrench' (the U-shaped type) on the top nut.
This is off course a 2-man job the way I do it, unless you have really long arms.........
Just have plenty of time and take your time it can be a pain the first few times you do it. Just don't give up
gofastgeorge;1394077 said:
A few small hole would be perfect for the starter and top bell housing bolts.
when you replace it get one of the newer style ones that have threaded holes. helps alot and makes it a 1 person affair.
as far as jacking the engine around, way too much work. a few extensions, a swivel and a good helper is all you need.
as far as jacking the engine around, way too much work. a few extensions, a swivel and a good helper is all you need.
thanxs u guys guess i was doing it right.ima try agian..any tips on getn starter on?if im haven trouble removing it im sure the install will be worse.thanx agian u guys
I did it by myself just reaching down by the intake manifold. I put a 14mm small socket on the bolt and loosened the nut with a 14mm box end wrench. My arms got scratched up, but the starter was off in 15 min.
Supra87T;1398042 said:
Yeah i squeeze my arm under the intake manifold. Thats the easy part. For the fire wall one I use a wrench for the nut and a socket wrench That swivels with a 12 inch cheater bar and I am able to loosen it from the top. works great. It takes longer then 15 min though.
ForcedTorque;1394045 said:
I changed mine last night, and that's exactly how I got the top bolt out; except I didn't loosen the motor mounts, as I just let the engine pivot on the mounts. Once the tranny was lowered a bit, I had a wrench on the nut, and I used a long extension with a swivel socket above the tranny to get the top starter bolt.
snyder250;1397998 said:
I thought the reinstall would be worse too, but I found the reinstall to be easier. I left the top bolt in the hole for the bell housing, then put the starter in place and tightened up the lower bolt & nut enough to hold the start in place. Once the starter was secured by the lower bolt, I pushed the upper bolt through the starter, and put the nut on the end of the bolt. After that, tightening the bolt was done the same way that I loosened the bolt: wrench on the nut to hold it in place, and a long extension & swivel socket above the tranny to turn the bolt.
thanx u guys.i laged on it but got the new one on.but my car wont start.the starter is working i hear it click but its not cranking the fly wheel.i bought a new battery and checked my altnator.it was working fine.i had my frend jump it b4 i bought the new battery on on the 3rd try it started,but would not start agian.any ideas?
I 'm wondering why this in the F.A.Q. Or in the "Sticky" tech section, this question comes out very often....
i'm so f'ng serious dude,that is what i'm thinking about doing. why the hell they thought of putting those 2 bolts on there basakwards i'll never know.it's a pain in the ass!gofastgeorge;1394077 said:
Just a couple 'fresh in my memory' tips.
I found trapping a wrench on the nut(front) and using about 18" of extension then a wobble then a long 14mm socket on the bolt coming up from just behind the slave cylinder the easiest.
Agreed about leaving the top bolt in while sliding the starter in place. it's a bitch to get the nut on, but about the only way. I left the socket on the bolt so I could turn it when I got the nut in position.
Also I removed the damper. Not the motor mount but the piece next to it. Gave me much more room to work.
Hope I never have to do this again. Although if I have to it will be so much easier the 2nd time.
I found trapping a wrench on the nut(front) and using about 18" of extension then a wobble then a long 14mm socket on the bolt coming up from just behind the slave cylinder the easiest.
Agreed about leaving the top bolt in while sliding the starter in place. it's a bitch to get the nut on, but about the only way. I left the socket on the bolt so I could turn it when I got the nut in position.
Also I removed the damper. Not the motor mount but the piece next to it. Gave me much more room to work.
Hope I never have to do this again. Although if I have to it will be so much easier the 2nd time.
whats this about a newer style starter? does getting the 91+ fit earlier models just with threaded holes? details please as ive got this job to do as soon as i get a warm dry day....and ill take my 89 one back and swap it if it really makes it better to install....