Started the 7M today but now it won't start.

[GeneStarWindGSW]

Bare with me guys, this is my first 7M Motor :biglaugh:

Alright, I finally started up my 7M-GE today after figuring out when i first got it that the water pump was seized,the radiator was leaking and the clutch fan was all messed up. I had tried to start the car when i first got it but it would smoke from the water pump & have a horrible smell, so i never started it after that again. Theres also a bit of a oil leak from the valve covers, but the car still has plenty of oil.

So i changed a new water pump & got a new fan with the clutch coupling installed.

I finally got a new radiator and today just installed it today. I hooked everything up and put a lot of water in it. I connected the battery and it cranked it over but everything started to make clicking noises. So i charged the battery and waited 30 mins for it to charge on 12v/10 amp on my battery charger.

After that was done, i put in the battery and jumped in the car and started it right up. It was idling pretty good and it wasn't smoking or anything. So i let it run for a couple of minutes and then turned the car off. I didn't burp the car because i forgot so when i took off the radiator cap off a lot of pressure was there. This is the first time its had some sort of water/coolant because when i took the old water pump off it was all rusted out and when i drained the old radiator out it had almost no water in it either. I also have an aftermarket cap for the radiator, so it has like a tab on the top and when i would lift it the overflow tank would make like bubbling noises, so i'm guessing there might be air bubbles in my radiator system? Also should i have emptied out the overflow tank and put some new coolant in it?

Now after doing all this the car won't start. Its making the same clicking noises from like everywhere when i try to crank the car over. So i went to go try to charge the battery again and when i put the terminals on this time it starts A LOT. Like if i leave the terminals on it will keep sparking from the battery leads and this is with the battery charger OFF. Also when i tried to crank it the tranny was grinding VERY bad (clutch pedal in all the way & in neutral) at first but now its not with all the clicking but if it continues i'll let you guys know (the shifter isn't bolted on but still it shouldn't go into gear with the clutch pedal in)

So Cliffs,
Waterpump, Radiator & clutch all changed.
Tried to turn on the car but it made clicking noises, so i charged battery.
After charging , I turned car on for first time with no problems.
Let it ran for 5 mins or so then turned it off to put more coolant in.
Didn't burp the coolant system, so might air bubbles maybe?
Topped the radiator with water and went to go turn on the car but didn't.
Car is making same clicking noises as before but can't charge battery.


Man what a mess lol. Tomorrow im going to get the battery tested at Advance Auto Parts and i will be checking the wiring for any faulty wiring or any wiring that could be shorting the motor.

Suggestions on what to check for?

 

[Setheroo]

It sounds like your battery isn't holding a very good charge. As for the sparking I would have to see it for myself.

Now to address the tranny issue... is your vehicle jumping forward? Crank it with it in a gear and with the clutch pedal depressed, if the car jumps then your clutch pedal isn't doing its job.

Once you get your car running though, burp that thing asap.

I would look for all sorts of things once it was in running order... in your case the charging circuit would probably be a good place to start.

Good luck!

 

[GeneStarWindGSW]

It sounds like your battery isn't holding a very good charge. As for the sparking I would have to see it for myself.

Now to address the tranny issue... is your vehicle jumping forward? Crank it with it in a gear and with the clutch pedal depressed, if the car jumps then your clutch pedal isn't doing its job.

Once you get your car running though, burp that thing asap.

I would look for all sorts of things once it was in running order... in your case the charging circuit would probably be a good place to start.

Good luck!

Yea its way too dark to see much right now, so first thing tomorrow morning =). I will be getting the battery checked tomorrow too, so i'll see how that goes. Also the Supra is pretty much gutted so inside is pretty much gone too. I feel like when i put the car in ACCEL, that the fusebox has some clicking and something around the area of the ABS/Charcoal canister make clicking noises but it isn't for very long, it goes away.

Everything else in the car clicks when I try to crank it over, but yea that battery seems faulty. Check Engine is also on as well. I'm going to see if i can check for codes too.

Thanks man.

 

[Setheroo]

Yea its way too dark to see much right now, so first thing tomorrow morning =). I will be getting the battery checked tomorrow too, so i'll see how that goes. Also the Supra is pretty much gutted so inside is pretty much gone too. I feel like when i put the car in ACCEL, that the fusebox has some clicking and something around the area of the ABS/Charcoal canister make clicking noises but it isn't for very long, it goes away.

Everything else in the car clicks when I try to crank it over, but yea that battery seems faulty. Check Engine is also on as well. I'm going to see if i can check for codes too.

Thanks man.

That could be your fuel pump relay hard at work you know.. just a good guess because I know for a fact that is what sits in that area. Mine completely crapped out on me and clicked on and off like crazy after it had sat for a long time. I just completely chopped the relay out of the system and did the 12V fuel pump mod... worked for me rather well.

 

[GeneStarWindGSW]

That could be your fuel pump relay hard at work you know.. just a good guess because I know for a fact that is what sits in that area. Mine completely crapped out on me and clicked on and off like crazy after it had sat for a long time. I just completely chopped the relay out of the system and did the 12V fuel pump mod... worked for me rather well.

Hmmm, i'll look into that. I'd understand though if it hadn't started at all though. Just that i was able to start the car and it was running pretty good for not being turned on in awhile and not driving in almost 1-2 years.

The car has a half of tank thats been sitting in it for like 1-2 years. What should i do about that?

The voltmeter on the instrument cluster is at 12v when everything lights up on the dash but when cranked it jumps down low, so i know it has to be something wrong with the charging system.

Also something is totally messed up with the wiring in this car, like the turn signals buzz when i put either of them on, also when i turn the lights on all the lights on my A/C and dash turn off but when i turn off the lights its all good.

Plus when i tried to turn over the car and hold it for a couple seconds, the headlight would come up by itself then come down. So yea, i know theres definitely some wiring gone array lol.

 

[Setheroo]

Hmmm, i'll look into that. I'd understand though if it hadn't started at all though. Just that i was able to start the car and it was running pretty good for not being turned on in awhile and not driving in almost 1-2 years.

The car has a half of tank thats been sitting in it for like 1-2 years. What should i do about that?

The voltmeter on the instrument cluster is at 12v when everything lights up on the dash but when cranked it jumps down low, so i know it has to be something wrong with the charging system.

Also something is totally messed up with the wiring in this car, like the turn signals buzz when i put either of them on, also when i turn the lights on all the lights on my A/C and dash turn off but when i turn off the lights its all good.

Plus when i tried to turn over the car and hold it for a couple seconds, the headlight would come up by itself then come down. So yea, i know theres definitely some wiring gone array lol.

I am not so sure on how long it takes gas to go stale, but I know that they make stuff that you can buy at just about any auto parts store to "refresh" your tank of gas. It might be worth it to just buy a thing of whatever restore additive you can find, but if you have only half a tank of gas - I would suggest filling up the other half with some 89, it wouldn't hurt at all for your situation.

With all things considered, you have some wiring issues, but thinking about what is going on with your battery leads me to believe that your clicking IS coming from that relay. Not because it is bad, but it's because your battery can't hold the relay closed as it should, which in turn causes the clicking. Your car turned over ok fine because the relay by your charcoal canister is not the main fuel pump relay, instead it is a relay that changes the amount of voltage that is sent to your fuel pump (when you hit WOT it will send all 12V as opposed to the 9V (or 6V?) it will send at other loads).

Just thought I would add those thoughts in there so you can really rule out this problem of yours.

 

[cuel]

First, I'd say the battery was never charged thoroughly. You need to leave it on 2amp trickle charge over night, and see if it takes a charge.
Second, with the w.p. seized, radiator messed up, I'd be worried about the rest of the cooling system. Change the t.stat.(I might have missed it) Would do a block test as well, just to be sure... When filling the coolant, do it slowly. Also, tie the heater valve open, so that you get fresh coolant into the heater core as well.
Third, for the sparking, if the key is on, or in acc. when you put the batt. in, it'll spark a bit.

For the grinding from the trans.; you put a clutch in it? It could be you put the clutch plate backwards? It'll definitely grind that way.

 

[jetjock]

Cuel is right. The battery needs to be properly charged. Most people either charge a battery too little when dead or jump start the engine. Both are bad practices that can lead to damaged batteries/charging systems even when done "right". That said you may well need a new battery by now anyway because of sulfation if it's been sitting.

The headlight behavior you observed is normal when system voltage falls too low, as yours is doing under cranking load. Yet another sign the battery is discharged.

If I were you I'd get it started first and then check for charging before worrying too much about the cooling system then I would chemically clean and flush that. I also would have drained the fuel tank. The best way to bring a car like this back to health is to break it down into systems and work on them one at a time, where possible fully servicing each one before moving on to the next.

 

[Nick M]

He might consider more than just over night at 2 amps. I found more like 24-36 hours, when it is dead. And as he said, see if it even comes back. If the battery is left dead too long, or with old age, the lead sulfate becomes too hard to reverse the chemical process, and recharge.

 

[GeneStarWindGSW]

The car didn't come with a battery, this was a battery that i took off my black 2jz supra. It worked good but it gave me problems to begin with. I didn't get a chance to check it yet but i am going now. It rained, so that slowed me down