So i did the relay mod, went well and worked for a few days, but then slowly started taking more and more turns of the key to actually turn over, to where now, it simply does the one click and doesnt start anymore. however, now im hearing a click in the passenger kick panel where those relays are if this sheds light to anyone for what's wrong. Is that where the original starter relay is? and does the clicking sound mean its a bad relay?
Start problem after relay mod
- Thread starter karl4783
- Start date
He means the one that doesn't actually fix problems, just bypasses a bunch of wiring (and might AVOID the problem, but not fix it) after cutting up your wiring harness. Read the whole thread and you'd realize that...
(start at post #30)
http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=76403&highlight=starting+relay&page=3
My suggestion would be to check your starter and your big power wires/connections to the starter (the one running directly from the battery terminal to the starter, not the relay you just put in). Check and see if the new second (unnecessary) relay is clicking at all. If it is, make sure your supply line from the positive terminal is good as well as the line running from the other side of the switch to the plug on the starter. If it's not clicking, check the ground to the new relay and the line from the original relay.
(start at post #30)
http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=76403&highlight=starting+relay&page=3
My suggestion would be to check your starter and your big power wires/connections to the starter (the one running directly from the battery terminal to the starter, not the relay you just put in). Check and see if the new second (unnecessary) relay is clicking at all. If it is, make sure your supply line from the positive terminal is good as well as the line running from the other side of the switch to the plug on the starter. If it's not clicking, check the ground to the new relay and the line from the original relay.
yeah i read that thread before when i was looking to do the mod, and it seemed to support doing the mod, except for that jetjock guy who said not to and its not at all the real problem, but it still doesn't state anything specific to what the problem would be. Plus, mine had a small cut/corrosion on the blue wire to the starter. I thought about just replacing that section of wire, but decided to go through with the mod since its so easy and had everything handy.
I'm Ok with taking it off and fixing it the correct way, but im at a standstill because i can't find any bad connections or corrosion, the whole bay is clean and rust free and all connections look clear, on the starter specifically. My battery is practically brand new- like one month old- and has no voltage drop.
I'm Ok with taking it off and fixing it the correct way, but im at a standstill because i can't find any bad connections or corrosion, the whole bay is clean and rust free and all connections look clear, on the starter specifically. My battery is practically brand new- like one month old- and has no voltage drop.
If there's no voltage drop that means the starter isn't engaging at all. The voltage WILL drop if the starter is cranking. I'd still personally test the battery anyways, just to for sure confirm it good. Not likely bad, but you never know.
Check to see if you're getting voltage at the solenoid (small wire to starter) when you are trying to crank. If you have voltage there, and your heavy positive wire to the starter from the battery is good, you've likely got a bad starter. Only other thing you can try replacing before replacing the entire starter is the contacts, they're relatively cheap from toyota dealers.
Check to see if you're getting voltage at the solenoid (small wire to starter) when you are trying to crank. If you have voltage there, and your heavy positive wire to the starter from the battery is good, you've likely got a bad starter. Only other thing you can try replacing before replacing the entire starter is the contacts, they're relatively cheap from toyota dealers.
Even a brand new battery is only good for a few starts if the alternator is bad. The clicking from the stock relay is telling you that it is good, not bad. If you had no click, it would be time to check it out. The click tells you that the signal is getting that far. After that, your problem is either in the wiring harness, the starter, or a weak battery.
If you don't have a multimeter, invest $20 on one, and test your battery first. Then test to see how much voltage you are getting out of the wire leading to the solenoid. If you get 12+ volts there, the problem is in the starter. If not 12 volts(assuming battery is tested good), it's in your wiring harness. The aftermarket relay is designed because our wiring harnesses are old and getting older. Pre 89 can't even be replaced with new anymore. The relay allows for a weaker signal to trigger a direct wire from the battery as a substitute.
If you don't have a multimeter, invest $20 on one, and test your battery first. Then test to see how much voltage you are getting out of the wire leading to the solenoid. If you get 12+ volts there, the problem is in the starter. If not 12 volts(assuming battery is tested good), it's in your wiring harness. The aftermarket relay is designed because our wiring harnesses are old and getting older. Pre 89 can't even be replaced with new anymore. The relay allows for a weaker signal to trigger a direct wire from the battery as a substitute.
The rewire is a relay triggering another relay, hence why it's pretty pointless.
As already mentioned, the small wire just flips the solenoid and internal contacts take over to actually move the motor with power from the large positive cable. If the solenoid is working, you have an issue with the starter.
As already mentioned, the small wire just flips the solenoid and internal contacts take over to actually move the motor with power from the large positive cable. If the solenoid is working, you have an issue with the starter.