hey guys my car stalls after i boost and only after i boost, for example i'm boosting then i throw my car back in neutral the car stumbles then stalls, but if i cruise and not boost at all the car is fine. Also at idle the car is fine. A friend of mine suggested its because of a weak spring in the bov, what do you guys think? so far i shoved 2 more washers in the bov to make it stiffer maybe it needs more?
Stalling after boosting?
- Thread starter viper92086
- Start date
that doesn't make anysense.... the bov was made not to recirc..... also i'm na-t so i still have my na manifold (full 7mgte electronics)
viper92086 said:
right, your not recirculating the BOV just connect a piece of hose to the 2 pipes like i said, the hose i speak of has nothing to do with the BOV directly, but as you said, on a NA-T setup i have no idea. The car doesnt like the sudden loss of air when the BOV vents.
When the BOV goes off your releasing metered air, air the ecu has accounted for and believes is there, so it continues to provide fuel for the air that is no longer there. Your car the goes rich, stumbles and then dies. Two ways to solve the stumbling problem.
1. Recirculate the BOV like 89Turbo says
2. Get the necessary electronics to run a MAF sensor in blow through mode, or speed density ecu. This is a lot of work to go through just to get a BOV to work correctly.
Some people have had success tuning the BOV so the car doesn't die. However this is just a band-aid, and it will always stumble unless you do one of the two options above.
Of course not, neither was that BOV made for this specific car or the system by which it handles air metering. So it isn't going to work the way you think it's supposed to.
1. Recirculate the BOV like 89Turbo says
2. Get the necessary electronics to run a MAF sensor in blow through mode, or speed density ecu. This is a lot of work to go through just to get a BOV to work correctly.
Some people have had success tuning the BOV so the car doesn't die. However this is just a band-aid, and it will always stumble unless you do one of the two options above.
viper92086 said:
Of course not, neither was that BOV made for this specific car or the system by which it handles air metering. So it isn't going to work the way you think it's supposed to.
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i was thinking what if i made the dampner on the throttle more resistant this way when i let off the gas the throttle doesn't slam?
its the bov man, i know it sounds great venting to atomsphere, but it's what's makin' you rich and droppin the rpms, its gotta be recirced i had the same problem. i had it with a TurboXS RFL BOV.
theKnifeArtist said:
has anyone had this setup work succesfully with another bov? maybe one that closes faster?
I have mine open atomsphere and i just tap the gas to keep it from dieing.
Ive ran a HKS SSQV for about 3.5 years, driving it like that. after the first year i played with the tune and it helped some, but i still had to play with the throttle to keep it from stalling.
to me its worth the sound
Ive ran a HKS SSQV for about 3.5 years, driving it like that. after the first year i played with the tune and it helped some, but i still had to play with the throttle to keep it from stalling.
to me its worth the sound
ok so lets just say what if its not the bov, any other sugestions? reason why i ask is cause i know a few other supras with aftermarket bov's but they are stock 7mgte's mine is a na-t
here's how it is setup (theres a pipe going from the catchcan to the umm so called accordian now.. just got lazy to take a updated pic, everything else is the same)
here's how it is setup (theres a pipe going from the catchcan to the umm so called accordian now.. just got lazy to take a updated pic, everything else is the same)
i wouldnt see why its the bov since its an n/a engine. is it a studder like lack of fuel or fuel cut? you might want to search a honda forum that will give you ideas since they are kings of turboing N/A's LOL just dont follow any advice that uses wood and/or duct tape
