Stage Tuning??? I NEED HELP!!!

[Merkhunter]

i have a 1989 toyota supra turbo targa top. i have my motor in a shop being rebuilt with all new clevite 77 bearings, arp rod /main / head bolts and studs. brand new oil pump and all the new gaskets. i also have a upgraded 57 trim ct26 turbo . i have in the works an aeromotive FPR. walbro 255 lph / RC 550 cc injectors/ Lexus AFM/ greddy turbo timer and profec b boost controller. / Hks 1.2mill MHG / EGR BLOCK OFF PLATE / new spearco replica intercooler, with hks SSQV blowoff valve with 2 1/2" intercooler piping.and fipk K &N intake with metal piping instead of accordian hose./ i have a titanmotorsports 3 inch downpipe with testpipe and blitz nur spec exaust/ aluminum flywheel 5 pounds lighter, and aluminum 1 piece drive shaft 11 pounds lighter. im deciding on wideband kit and or the apexi afc NEo. can i get some help with figuring out the tuning after i get all this together??? also in the works i now have the 3.73 rear end, but i have a spare supra 1986.5 n/a w58 7mge, with a 4:30 rear end , and i plan on switching the rear ends. any one know what numbers i should be running on the dyno with all my goodies? and is a WIDEBANDKIT needed if i get the AFC NEO ? I'm just trying to produce the best set up as i can without extreme tuning.

 

[foreverpsycotic]

Neo, and if you haven't tuned before, go to a shop and have them tune it on their dyno (using their sniffer).

 

[ForcedTorque]

Sounds almost exactly like my set-up. I haven't had mine tuned yet, and it drives pretty strong with all NEO values at -20. I know it will be much different once tuned, which hopefully will be fairly soon.

 

[MK3Brent]

-20% correction and you're "not tuned"?

 

[Rennat]

i plan to go with this wideband, uses the same sensor as the AEM UEGO, the LC-1, and most of the other common brands. just have to assembl yourself.

http://www.14point7.com/JAW/JAW.htm

go google it, it has really good feedback. and im getting it because i get the sensor at cost due to me working at a parts store now.
you wouldnt believe how cheap stuff is when you work there.

 

[IwantMKIII]

Sounds almost exactly like my set-up. I haven't had mine tuned yet, and it drives pretty strong with all NEO values at -20. I know it will be much different once tuned, which hopefully will be fairly soon.

:ugh: I wouldn't drive with those settings. +/- 20+ range begins to affect timing so im told. Not to mention i hope thats not high thottle AND low throttle points...assuming they have that on NEO.

 

[ForcedTorque]

-20% correction and you're "not tuned"?

Let me do a little splainin here.

First, I bought my car as a parted out shell. In a previous life, it was used as a drift car, but I don't know exactly to what extent.

I do run at -20 across the board, both low and high throttle. My injectors are EBAY PTE 550's, but they were flowed, and matched very well, but they flow 615. I have been having some problems that don't allow me to run the car very hard at all. At first, I thought I had problems with my Centerforce dual Friction clutch, so I swapped it out for an ACT 6 puck. Now that my break in miles have been met, plus an extra 300 highway miles to boot, I am having similar problems with this clutch too. I suspect that my problem may be with the drifted rear end, or my transmission. I can get it to about 4-5 pounds of boost, and it feels like the clutch is slipping. I have been through 2 very good clutches with very strict no boosting until after 500 city only miles. The rear of my car makes a lot of noise, but it really doesn't sound like the clunking my old MKII did when it went out.

I started out with -5's, and I could tell it was pig rich. When I went to the Mississippi cruis'n'the coast event, George (Jugodegolf) can tell you that -5 was Waaay too rich, as I lost him in the mirror in the black smoke getting on the interstate. After that, I dropped it to -10, but still got a good bit of smoke. I finally got to a point where I only have a small amount of black smoke at -20 when I hit boost. I rarely see 4000 rpm, or more than 4 pounds of boost. As soon as I can correct whatever is wrong with it, I plan to get it tuned properly.



Merk....Sorry for the thread jack! Make sure you have your injectors flow tested before installing them. Contact Tim at cleaninjectors.com. It is very cheap, but I can't quote a price from memory.

 

[IwantMKIII]

^lower your FP and get out of the 20's

For a place to start my part thottles are always in the +5 to +17 range while 70+% throttle is into the -10 to -18 range with 550cc injectors and 38PSI. Just take note the large difference in the way the stock ECU reacts with full vs. part throttle. I could probably even add on quite a bit of fuel at part thottle b/c i no longer have EGR which puts me in the 13's AFR

 

[Merkhunter]

yea when i bought my RC 550's they came with the flow charts . an average of 551 with all 6 of em.