SPEC st3 clutch not engaging enough
- Thread starter eraezer
- Start date
Raising the fork pivot point would only reduce the throw. Do you have any pics of the fork's pin and the pivot point? Might be worn.
Clutch disk looks like it's in correctly as well.
Only other issues I can think of would be an incorrect backstep on the flywheel (too deep), but you didn't have it resurfaced (though you really should have, but that wouldn't cause this issue). Could also just simply be a bad clutch disk (too thick, warped, etc)
Clutch disk looks like it's in correctly as well.
Only other issues I can think of would be an incorrect backstep on the flywheel (too deep), but you didn't have it resurfaced (though you really should have, but that wouldn't cause this issue). Could also just simply be a bad clutch disk (too thick, warped, etc)
I just took down the gearbox.
Nothing jumps at me.
Thickness of the new disc is 9,5 mm and the old worn one is 6,6 mm.
Nothing jumps at me.
Thickness of the new disc is 9,5 mm and the old worn one is 6,6 mm.
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What about washers (C) and (D), can I move those to the other side of the bearing? I will then get about 2 mm more movement
No, C and D keep the hub tight in the bearing so it doesn't spin in the race instead of the bearing (this is bad as the snap ring will then machine off the lip)
Really at a loss here. Check everything for flatness and maybe PM one of the vendors that carries that clutch and see if they know the spec the disk is supposed to be. Could always be they made it too thick (weirder things have happened) Hell, should be the same thickness for all puck clutches (stock should be slightly thicker because of marcel spring). TSRM only lists min. specs so it's no help in this
Really at a loss here. Check everything for flatness and maybe PM one of the vendors that carries that clutch and see if they know the spec the disk is supposed to be. Could always be they made it too thick (weirder things have happened) Hell, should be the same thickness for all puck clutches (stock should be slightly thicker because of marcel spring). TSRM only lists min. specs so it's no help in this
Well I tried it anyways, but that didnt help anything.
I will take down the gearbox again tomorrow and I have three alternatives:
1. Install stock disc and pp, there's still some life left in them.
2. Install stock disc with spec pp.
3. install spec disc with stock pp.
Which would you recommend?
The spec disc might be too thick...
I will take down the gearbox again tomorrow and I have three alternatives:
1. Install stock disc and pp, there's still some life left in them.
2. Install stock disc with spec pp.
3. install spec disc with stock pp.
Which would you recommend?
The spec disc might be too thick...
I'm starting to suspect those rivets I was talking about in the beginning.
From starting the engine with first gear in there was uneven wear on the pp friction surface. Only half of the friction surface shows any sign of contact. I mean half way around. The other half looks brand new.
So half of the clutch is disengaged enough.
The rivets I'm talking about are the ones steering the friction part when it moves. Near each spring blade (not the diaphragm) there are a total of 3 rivets, or supposed to be, two are holding the spring and one steering the friction part.
Does this make sense?
I forgot to upload pics of these before.
So mine are missing and the theory I'm having is that when I'm disengaging the clutch, the friction part does not move evenly and therefor there is still contact between half of the friction surface and disc.
To confirm this I will need to installed my old pp with my spec disc.
If that still doesn't work, the new suspect will be the disc being to thick.
What do you think?
From starting the engine with first gear in there was uneven wear on the pp friction surface. Only half of the friction surface shows any sign of contact. I mean half way around. The other half looks brand new.
So half of the clutch is disengaged enough.
The rivets I'm talking about are the ones steering the friction part when it moves. Near each spring blade (not the diaphragm) there are a total of 3 rivets, or supposed to be, two are holding the spring and one steering the friction part.
Does this make sense?
I forgot to upload pics of these before.
So mine are missing and the theory I'm having is that when I'm disengaging the clutch, the friction part does not move evenly and therefor there is still contact between half of the friction surface and disc.
To confirm this I will need to installed my old pp with my spec disc.
If that still doesn't work, the new suspect will be the disc being to thick.
What do you think?
There's a difference between the old and new pp.
The distance between the friction surface and diaphragm differs 5 mm. So the hub needs to move 5 mm more before it catches up with the stock pp.
The distance between the friction surface and diaphragm differs 5 mm. So the hub needs to move 5 mm more before it catches up with the stock pp.
I just got back from my garage.
I installed the new spec disc and old stock pp....and it works
So I feel pretty safe to say that there is something wrong with the spec pp.
I installed the new spec disc and old stock pp....and it works
So I feel pretty safe to say that there is something wrong with the spec pp.
