Spark plug change-Won't stay started

[Scot]

I actually see the timing mark in two places, so it is impossible right now to set the timing correctly. Now, before I changed the plug wires I connected the timing light to the number 1 plug wire and it was flashing intermittently, meaning there is some type of electrical problem going on. I then thought, lets see how the timing light reacts on the number 6 plug wire and it seemed fine. Yesterday, I finally got my plug wires in and I just replaced the the number 1 cyl with no change, then I swapped them all out and still no change. During this time with the new wires in I had intermittent issues on number 1 cyl with the timing light, but now also on two other cylinders 5 and 6. However, I posted that I am going to test this again tonight, because maybe 5 and 6 were possibly jumping current to each other during the test if they were touching.

Scot- shake it off :icon_bigg
The wires are good, the wiring order is good (163425-left to right on coil packs) I changed the coilpacks with another set I have and tested them, they are good. The spark plugs are good, swapped them out for new, made no difference with either set I had in. All cylinders are getting spark, this issue is before the spark plug ruling out anything to do with the plugs. I had some broken clips on the plug wire/coil caps, I replaced them, they all snap in, so that is good. I checked the following per tsrm using a multimeter and all seemed good:

Plug wires
ISC valve
Coil Packs

The last thing I need to check is the ignitor. I read JJ's thread about rewiring the ground for this, so I will inspect this for any type of corrosion on the ground screw. This is the original so I wouldn't doubt that there is some crap built up in it.

Let's re-cap

So I am not sure yet what the deal is, I fixed a huge boost leak and the car began to run a lot better with NGK coppers installed, but it still had a slight miss.

You fixed a huge boost leak and the car began to run better after you changed spark plugs? But at this point you only have a slight miss at idle, right?

I decided to put in some NGK BCPR7EIX iridiums (didn't gap them) in hopes that would stop the miss and the idle bounces just a hair just above 500 rpm and the headlights, car lamps all flicker and it ran like crap..

Changing to a new set of plugs iinjected additional problems to the mix? It went from a slight miss to running like crap?

Thought maybe it was the isvc, but that seems to click when the engine turns off. I decided to unplug it to see if it made a difference and now my car is hard to start and if it does start it won't stay started unless I am on the gas. At a loss.

You unplugged the isvc and injected yet another problem? Went from a slight miss, to running like crap, to won't stay running?

Based on your orignal post, maybe you can see why I asked you to double check some things. And oh yeah, I hope it is the ignighter.... becasue if is not, there is nothing else to check, right? Because it is the "last" thing to check. But hey, consider it "shaken off"!::salute::

 

[huntin5L]

Moy, didn't check it before I started it, but the battery stays at a constant 13.87 volts, I don't think it has anything to do with the alternator.

3p, good question, I will verify this tonight. However, I still need to verify that the timing light is truly showing inconsistencies on 5 and 6, it was dark when I did this and the car wasn't in the garage, wires could of gotten crossed.

Scot-Yes, but I am more so at hearing and feeling the miss of the engine rather than it wanting to die as it did when I pulled the ISCV valve. So, it isn't running as bad as that, but it is for sure missing significantly. And, as for the ignitor, not the last thing to check im sure, but the last thing I know of to check.

 

[chopstickz]

wait... when you use the timing light... doesn't he have to jump 2 ports? Or is that different with coils?

 

[huntin5L]

wait... when you use the timing light... doesn't he have to jump 2 ports? Or is that different with coils?

When you are setting the timing you do.

 

[huntin5L]

When you are setting the timing you do.

Well, I checked cyl 5 and 6 with the light seemed okay now, maybe they were touching last night. Cyl 1 still off. I decided for preventative maintenance that I should do the ground rewire on the ignitor. I hooked a piece of wire to the screw with an end ring and attached the other end to the same screw as the ground from the battery. I hope that was okay to do, because it actually made the car idle even worse so I took it off and it still is running really bad, bouncing idle, lights dimming like it wants to die.....Ahhhhh!!!!! This car is going to be the death of me, no joke. I am done for tonight, I don't have anything left in me.

 

[D7MSupra]

Any luck yet? I must have jinxed myself because im having ignition issues now. Cannot get it to start unless its rolling down a steep hill. Got a new CPS that cured it temporarly. The issue is back again now though. In about to go read my codes I got while driving.:cry:

 

[huntin5L]

No, I haven't found the issue yet, I am going out there now to look a the CPS. I know a while back I unloosened the bolt to do the timing, just want to make sure it is tight. If I were you I would maybe check the ignitor. You don't have a spare on hand do you? No start could definitely point to the ignitor.

 

[huntin5L]

Damn, I checked and it looks like the guy who installed my cps possibly stripped the bolt hole that holds down the CPS. Not only that, I lost the damn bolt as I dropped it when I was taking it out with my fingers. My question is now, should I use a helicoil or a time-sert. I have used a helicoil a long time ago once on a go cart motor, but other than that haven't had much experience. What do you guys suggest? Can anyone confirm the size of this bolt? I can just order it from the dealership if nobody knows.

 

[SupraTrbo89]

It's def not the NGK iridiums. I bought some and they came pre gaped. I simply installed them and the car runs great. This sounds dumb but def make sure your plug wires are installed right. There are two that are very similar in length. I switched these when I first did my install and the car would start for a second and then stall.

 

[Poodles]

Iridiums do NOT come pre-gapped. They say not to gap them because they're easy to damage, not because they come pre-gapped.

 

[Drake69]

Iridiums do NOT come pre-gapped. They say not to gap them because they're easy to damage, not because they come pre-gapped.

+ 1. I had to be real careful gapping mine to correct specs, but they do require proper gapping, just like any other plug. A steady hand and no heavy force will do the trick.

 

[1StTurbo]

Ok spent the last hour reading this an we are left hanging???? Did he fix the car? what was the problem?

 

[huntin5L]

I haven't fixed it yet. The car has been sitting in my garage. I tested a ton of different things, just haven't had the time to find the problem. One of the next things I am going to try is soak the cold start injector to clean it up and eliminate that as a potential problem. Did a boost leak test, that seems to be fine. Will update this soon when I find the time, it will be soon.

 

[TheMafyoz]

im pretty sure u have done this but ...check ur firing order..same problems my car had ..that was the problem(firing order)