SP Quick Spool Valve dyno results

[tekdeus]

I tested my SP Quick Spool Valve today. Don't know what it is? Click here: http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?85016-SP-Quick-Spool-Valve

To recap, this is a Forced Performance 62mm billet GT35r(.84 T4 turbine) on stock 7MGTE with SAFC on stock ECU. It seems to be worth about 500-600rpm sooner spool and a maximum gain of 50hp and 71tq around 3500rpm! Red line is a pull with the valve closed, blue line is a pull with the valve locked open(as if there was no valve).
(Click graphs to enlarge)

We tried using a manual boost controller to open the valve around 12psi, which did a great job smoothing the transition on the dyno, however on the street it does not open the valve fast enough in between shifts or in sudden WOT situations above 4000rpm. I plan to order a different actuator to keep it simple and mechanically operated for now. Currently on the street in 4th gear it hits 15psi at 3300rpm. The difference in "feel" on the street is awesome. While cruising, it's so easy to dip into boost to scoot ahead and pass someone with just a little gas.

The stock ECU goes really rich immediately at WOT so I think proper tuning with a standalone, cams, and headwork could get full boost below 3000rpm!

Red line is final pull with MBC opening valve at 10-13 psi.

 

[IJ.]

That's fattened up the mid range

Well done!

 

[tekdeus]

On a street car, most driving is done around 2000-3500rpm and that extra TQ is great. Even just a few more psi than normal early in the powerband really solves that "empty" feeling when you give it gas at low rpm. I find that the difference is "felt" more than the graph shows it. The turbo also comes on more gradually, and hits less suddenly which is great for carefully accelerating out of corners.

The only caveats I find are:
1. It makes my car much quieter (some people may like this result)
2. In my opinion, it requires either a standalone to control the valve via a solenoid, or it needs a specific psi actuator(which I would like to do). The hobbs switch didn't work well for me; very choppy transition when the valve opens suddenly.

 

[IJ.]

I have that

 

[Zazzn]

cool review especially on a small turbo I didn't think it would help that much!

 

[MRSUPRA]

That's a huge difference in spool. With that said, it looks pretty laggy(with the spool valve open) for an upgraded GT35R- Ive seen 67's come on earlier than that. Was this a 3rd gear pull on the dyno? For comparison, my regular GT35R with a .68 A/R would see 15psi at 3400rpm in 4th gear.

Good info anyway.. Too bad the spool valve will not work properly without a standalone.

 

[IJ.]

This is all interesting info, I'd planned on PWMing mine and giving it a slope as it opens/closes as looking at it an abrupt open/close would create a LOT of turbulance and shaft speed change.

I'm also running an E-Map sensor so might end up using that for the trans tables but at this point it'll just me to monitor and the switch will be based on MAP.

My idea is the transition "should" be seamless, can you "feel" the switch point while driving Brad?

 

[tissimo]

Very nice!

 

[GrimJack]

That's a huge difference in spool. With that said, it looks pretty laggy(with the spool valve open) for an upgraded GT35R- Ive seen 67's come on earlier than that. Was this a 3rd gear pull on the dyno? For comparison, my regular GT35R with a .68 A/R would see 15psi at 3400rpm in 4th gear.

Good info anyway.. Too bad the spool valve will not work properly without a standalone.

It *should* be laggy when compared to a .68, he's running a .84 when the valve is open...

 

[tekdeus]

That's a huge difference in spool. With that said, it looks pretty laggy(with the spool valve open) for an upgraded GT35R- Ive seen 67's come on earlier than that. Was this a 3rd gear pull on the dyno? For comparison, my regular GT35R with a .68 A/R would see 15psi at 3400rpm in 4th gear.

Do you suppose I could safely lean it out with the SAFC between 2500-3000 for faster spool? I'm guessing it's because the stock ECU goes super rich at WOT starting at 2500rpm, and I have no idea what the timing is during spool-up without a standalone. Plus the compressor exducer on this turbo is 4mm larger than a GT35r, and with the .84 T4 turbine, it is overall a bigger higher flowing turbo, just slapped onto a stock 7M. My goal was to have a bigger higher flowing GT35r, that spooled faster than a regular GT35r with the valve. I think I've come pretty close, currently it hits 15psi at 3300 rpm on the street (the dyno shows it laggier for some reason). I just need a better engine and electronics to take advantage of this setup. Still, I'm having major traction issues on the street with big tires, and have the boost turned down in 1st and 2nd gear so I can "settle" for the way it is now.

My idea is the transition "should" be seamless, can you "feel" the switch point while driving Brad?

When the valve opens gradually over a 5 psi range like it does on the actuator, it feels seamless. I only feel a difference in power if the transition point is not where it should be. Ian, got any simple but brilliant ideas on how I could get mine to open gradually between 12 and 17 psi?(without a standalone for now) I called SP and they are not sure if they can get me an actuator that will do this, since the range of the actuator with a heavier spring may get too large to get the full travel out of it to fully open the valve.

 

[IJ.]

Nothing "easy" springs to mind but if I think of something I'll post.

 

[arknotts]

That's great! At first I didn't think it would be worth the $$, but that is a LOT of midrange gain! It doesn't look like it's a restriction up top either. You're renewing my interests in this valve Brad

 

[IJ.]

It's good having Brad as a

 

[dbsupra90]

maybe it's late and i'm tired, but:

i see the increase down low. i realize you backed out of the run, but looks like you are loosing power above 4200ish rpm? maybe i'm not reading that right. also, the top end looks a little rough, esp for 5 smoothing.

thanks for posting test results!

 

[tekdeus]

maybe it's late and i'm tired, but:i see the increase down low. i realize you backed out of the run, but looks like you are loosing power above 4200ish rpm? maybe i'm not reading that right. also, the top end looks a little rough, esp for 5 smoothing thanks for posting test results!

Check the 2nd dyno graph in post #1. Blue=pull with valve open the whole time. Green=pull with valve closed the whole time. Red=pull with valve opening around 12psi.
Not sure why the top end appears rough. It feels smooth on the street.

That's great! At first I didn't think it would be worth the $$, but that is a LOT of midrange gain! It doesn't look like it's a restriction up top either. You're renewing my interests in this valve Brad

The torque curve says it all. Any time I put my foot down above 2500rpm it builds boost right away. Very responsive when just putting around.

 

[Justin727]

Good to see. Renewing my interest as well although I have a 67 with a 68 hotside

 

[arknotts]

I have to wonder where you would see boost on a 4088R using this?

 

[MRSUPRA]

Do you suppose I could safely lean it out with the SAFC between 2500-3000 for faster spool? I'm guessing it's because the stock ECU goes super rich at WOT starting at 2500rpm, and I have no idea what the timing is during spool-up without a standalone. Plus the compressor exducer on this turbo is 4mm larger than a GT35r, and with the .84 T4 turbine, it is overall a bigger higher flowing turbo, just slapped onto a stock 7M. My goal was to have a bigger higher flowing GT35r, that spooled faster than a regular GT35r with the valve. I think I've come pretty close, currently it hits 15psi at 3300 rpm on the street (the dyno shows it laggier for some reason). I just need a better engine and electronics to take advantage of this setup. Still, I'm having major traction issues on the street with big tires, and have the boost turned down in 1st and 2nd gear so I can "settle" for the way it is now.

When the valve opens gradually over a 5 psi range like it does on the actuator, it feels seamless. I only feel a difference in power if the transition point is not where it should be. Ian, got any simple but brilliant ideas on how I could get mine to open gradually between 12 and 17 psi?(without a standalone for now) I called SP and they are not sure if they can get me an actuator that will do this, since the range of the actuator with a heavier spring may get too large to get the full travel out of it to fully open the valve.

THere are other factors like the dyno conditions (temperature and humidity) and what gear you dynoed. A 3rd gear dyno run will almost always show a laggier graph. I do understand the .84 A/R will definately increase the lag, along with the 4mm bigger exducer wheel on the compressor side. But the 35R has a nice small aerodynamic turbine wheel which is what gives it the great spool.
Most likely it is the particular dyno and dyno conditions which make the graph look laggy. Either way, it shows the spool valve helping out a lot.

 

[HKS_TRD]

This is very interesting indeed

Maybe I can go to a really large turbine housing on the T04Z with this

Even though I have a MoTEC M800 if I do go with one of these I'd actualyl prefer to find a mechanical way to control the quick spool valve if possible, it'd be more elegant, though maybe I need to wrap my head around how on earth you control it electronically

IJ maybe you can give a crash course in it. I dont know if I can fit 2 solenoids in my inner guard, the boost control one is already going there

 

[dbsupra90]

Check the 2nd dyno graph in post #1. Blue=pull with valve open the whole time. Green=pull with valve closed the whole time. Red=pull with valve opening around 12psi.
Not sure why the top end appears rough. It feels smooth on the street.

it was someone else posting under my name. i think maybe the 2nd pic didn't load. i see it, um, i mean he sees it now.