Sort of stuck need some help advice

[vert88]

A couple of weeks ago i started to work on this 92 supra turbo that would not start so we narrowed it down to either a clogged fuel filter and pump so i told the owner to get a walbro 255 and filter and an adjustable fuel pressure regulator well the guy bought the stuff and me and oscar got to his shop early this morning and start to take the pump out
When we took the tank out of the car the inside was really rusty and the peice of hose holding the pump to the fuel line was not there and the pump was rusty so we dissassemled the tank and took it to the car wash and pressure washed the inside of the tank and put it ack together installed a new filter and installed the tank and added 2and a half gallons of gas
We tried to start the car and it would try to start but it just would'nt we checked the timing the igniter the fuel and made sure that the computer was getting power
the cas has an f-con and we tried starting it with the thing on and off and the car still would not start so i am stuck and i would love to get this car started just to hear the exhaust so if anyone could give me some advice i would really apprecinate it thanx

 

[vert88]

well i am the old school guy and if i cant figure it out i don't want to beat around the bush and if anyone has any insite and don't mind typing i would apreciate your help

 

[mhopemk3]

What filter did you replace? The pick up or the actual fuel filter under the chassis?..

 

[oscar35783]

What filter did you replace? The pick up or the actual fuel filter under the chassis?..

The fuel filter was change along with new walbro. It seem that there is no spark.

 

[TurboWarrior]

check the efi fuse and the grounds at the coil pack then. There is a fuel pump relay in the fuse panel under the hood fyi

 

[oscar35783]

Let me give you a little history of the car. The car has an upgrade turbo, intake and exhaust, HKS FCD, F-con, and walbro. The owner was driving it and then it just cut off on him. When he tried to start it up and let it run at idle for a few minutes, it would back fired then cut off. The car has been sitting for the past 3 years that is why the tank was rusty and the fuel pump clogged. As of right now the car has a new fuel pump and fuel filter. We are getting fuel but no spark. We have check the ignitor and the ecu does have power. It pull a code 22 and 24, which seem to be not related to the no spark problem. We will be working on it after the new year. I guess we'll go back and start from the beginning. Is there anything else it causing no spark?

 

[oscar35783]

Oh yea, It also threw a code 51 too.

 

[Adjuster]

Unplug your coil packs and then plug them back in again. (Wiggle the wires too while someone is turning the key to start the car... )

Sounds like a short there, and it can be pretty common. (Or the contacts are just dirty, and taking it apart, and plugging it back in sometimes does the trick.) If that fixes it, clean up the plugs with WD40, and then using a throw-away paint brush, put some dielectric grease down into the plugs, and then plug it back together. The grease will help to limit further corrosion, and the WD 40 will clean out any old grease or grime. IF you just use WD 40, it will work too, but you have to do this about every year or so to make sure it's going to keep from developing a short again.

Make sure the coil pack grounds are good. Try swapping out to a set of coil packs that are known to work too. (However, I think many times, the coils are fine, just plugging the others in cleans up the contacts and they work, so perfectly good coils get labled as "bad".)

I would run that engine untill warm and then change the oil and filter. It very likely has rust inside that your going to want to flush out with the old oil.

Good luck.

 

[suprahooked]

Check the igniter ground it has to be grounded thur the case with its bolts,make sure its not on paint . Good luck

 

[dbsupra90]

jiggle around the cps wires while you are jiggling. the clips in the harness often become loose over time. would also take off the oil filler cap and make sure the cams are spinning when you crank the motor.

 

[vert88]

thanks alot for the help i will put all of it to good use on friday

 

[oscar35783]

update: So I worked on the Supra today. I started with the basic like everyone suggested. I checked the fuse and relay, cleaned all the ground for better connection, change new plugs because the old one was wet with fuel. I checked for spark and there is spark finally. I started the car and it ran for like 2 seconds then cut off. It sound like it ran out of fuel. So we add more fuel and started the car, again it ran for a few second then cut off. The car has a replacement ECU from the junk yard in there. It was replaced because another person tried to fix the car a few years back. I replace the ECU with the orginal one that came with the car. It still did the same thing. Am I overlooking something here?

 

[3p141592654]

Still getting codes 22 and 24?

 

[oscar35783]

code 22, 31 and 51

 

[oscar35783]

I think code 31 is from when I unplugged the AFM to start the car just to see if it would make a difference. Even if the AFM was bad, it would still start.

 

[Doward]

Not so sure about that... without an afm, my car will start, run for a second, then die right out.

Have you cleared the ECU codes, and tried again?

Code 22 is the coolant temp sensor.

I'd physically verify spark before going any further.

 

[oscar35783]

cleared code and tried, still doing the same thing. I did physically verified spark.

 

[oscar35783]

We won't be able to work on this car again until Friday. Until then, please offer your advice.

 

[3p141592654]

Well, lets take a look at code 22 first. If the coolant sensor is dead, then the ECU defaults to a preset temp (80C) that assumes a warm engine.

Since you have a cold engine, and this is winter, the ECU will be commanding a lean mixture appropriate for a warm engine that may not be enough to keep your cold engine running once the extra fuel from the CSI is used up. Also, the fast idle will not be activated and it will be trying to run closed loop even though the ox sensor is stone cold.

So. my first suggestion is to get rid of code 22.

Check the sensor resistance per http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?Section=FI&Page=113

If bad, replace the sensor.

If it is okay, then check the wiring from the sensor to the ECU. You will need an ohmmeter. Disconnect the sensor and ECU plugs, then connect one lead of your ohmmeter to the sensor wiring connector, and the other lead to the matching connector on the ecu wiring plug. You should see continuity (0 ohms) for both sensor wires.

If it is open cct (inf ohms), the wiring is bad, or your test leads are not making good contact to the connector pins. It really helps to have two people to do this test.

 

[jetjock]

A excellent technically accurate post by 3p. It reminds me that although I've never mentioned it codes should be troubleshot starting with the lowest one first. That said in this case if it were me I'd address the code 31 first because from a technical standpoint it's far more serious.