GreenChevelleSS;2058736 said:
How are you getting that much out of a 7m ecu without fuel cut?
i guess i'll spill the beans on how i did it. i removed the screw for the afm housing which got me to a pretty high boost cut then to go further i run 43psi base fuel pressure and pull fuel on the afc which makes fuel cut go up even more. im pulling about 12% on race gas and on pump 8%. with it like that i don't hit fuel cut at all and it pulls pretty dam hard! on race gas its like 12ish/1 afr and on pump i have it at like 11ish/1 afr.
Zazzn;2058798 said:
eaither he's jacked the fuel pressure up really high and pulled tons from the S-AFC to keep it from reading over 1550 HZ or I have no idea...
Also I maxed out my 1jz at 22 PSI @ 523 WHP and 50 base fuel pressure. Basically, I had NO fuel left and jumping the base pressure to 55 caused me to go leaner.
I'd be very very careful if I was you... In fact I'd dial it back 2 psi to be safe. How are your AF's? I couldn't stay under 12.5 when I was 22 psi which is why I backed it out 2 psi.
Then i could hold a steady 11.3-11.5, and a sane EGT number.
Nice numbers BTW! Really good stuff! So what are you doing to get the boost that high? You should consider getting an emanage blue and using my wiring diagrams to wire it up. That way you can use the additional injection feature which allows you to manipulate the injector spray duration instead of the AFM signal which wacks out timing and everything else also when you put bigger injectors it will scale the map thought he (whacking out the timing again, but only a small amount instead of the huge amount needed for not hitting FCO) Also it will allow you to clamp the ECU from hitting FCO like the HKS FCD, but at least you can set the clam yourself, and use the Greddy map sensor to add fuel past the FCD point. (if this all makes sense)
Basically, i'm saying a 150$ piggy back can do what you need to do to get big numbers. Maybe the EMU piggy back can do this stuff now too and better...
btw why do they give people dynos in MPH, so worthless since you can' see when the car spools unless you do a bunch of calculations.
you're pretty much right but im not pulling that much fuel with the afc. removing the screw is what really makes fuel cut go up. i researched what hp the walbro 255 can supply and with the fuel pressure i run its right around the hp i dyno'd. funny thing is yes the more fuel pressue you run on the walbro it actually flows less. thats why i tried to keep it low as possible.
http://www.superstreetonline.com/how-to/engine/1404-fuel-pump-shootout/
and they're diesel guys idk why they had it like that either. id prefer rpm too. they got the crank signal from my crank pull to instead of a plug wire pickup thats why the torque went all crazy cause my motor moved to where it threw the reading off from the sensor they had mounted to the ramp.
my theory with running bigger injectors and pump was so im not on the limit of what they can do. so i can run less fuel pressure and pull the same fuel for the same results. or pull like 15% or whatever it takes to hit 25-26psi then it should do well over 600whp. i only run it like that with race gas too. on pump the most it sees is 18psi.
SeeUSmile;2058808 said:
Well they're uncorrected numbers to SAE standard but still they are raw figures. Just makes it harder to compare it to previous figures under same conditions. But dam didn't realize how much of a difference race gas can do.
Great work.
Since im at sea level i guess having it uncorrected doesn't matter but idk for sure. i was door to door with a 2015 z06 those come with 650hp and are the same weight as me 3500lbs so the numbers are dead on if you go off that. a guy with a new twin turbo inline 6 bmw dyno'd his car and made 380 and was expecting to hit low 400's compared to other cars with his mods so i don't think it was reading abnormally high.
thanks though maybe it'll give other members some motivation and see you dont have to blow tons of money on a standalone to go fast necessarily :biglaugh:
