What are you using to jump the FP/B+terminals? The pump takes a fair bit of current, and a paper clip won't do. Use a piece of copper wire.
some questions as i finish up my head gasket job...
- Thread starter Cyrus
- Start date
Or use a meter set to current on the appropriate range (iirc a stock pump runs about 4 amps) and kill multiple birds with one stone :icon_bigg
soo im back from vacation and am ready to try to fix this last problem and get the car running. gonna tackle the leaky coolant hose behind the head tomorrow. really hope it isnt the heater banjo itself. if it is, can that be replaced without removing the head?
and regarding the fuel pump, i tried jumpering Fp and +B with the key in the ON position. i used a piece of 12 gauge copper speaker wire w/ the ends soldered into pins. absolutely no noise from the fuel tank area. i also hooked up my multimeter to see if i could check the current. my multimeter has a 10amp limit, and when i put the leads into Fp and +B, it read around 12.xx. does that sound right? im not sure im using the multimeter correctly. put the lead into the 10amp socket and then turned the knob to the A (DC symbol) area on the 10A setting. that is the highest it goes.
also checked the EFI fuse... it seems to be fine. what is my next step? any more tests I can perform before i drop the tank and replace the fuel pump?
and regarding the fuel pump, i tried jumpering Fp and +B with the key in the ON position. i used a piece of 12 gauge copper speaker wire w/ the ends soldered into pins. absolutely no noise from the fuel tank area. i also hooked up my multimeter to see if i could check the current. my multimeter has a 10amp limit, and when i put the leads into Fp and +B, it read around 12.xx. does that sound right? im not sure im using the multimeter correctly. put the lead into the 10amp socket and then turned the knob to the A (DC symbol) area on the 10A setting. that is the highest it goes.
also checked the EFI fuse... it seems to be fine. what is my next step? any more tests I can perform before i drop the tank and replace the fuel pump?
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I would say you are using the meter correctly based on what you describe and 12A for a stalled pump is reasonable. The pump is likely frozen. Happened to me after 4 months of sitting. You could try hooking up a battery charger to raise the voltage a little more and see if you can break it loose, otherwise the pump needs to come out.
so there is no way it is something with the fuel pump relay or the circuit open relay or something? should i try to test for current/voltage at the power connector behind the round access door in the trunk?
im ready to drop the tank and replace the pump, i just want to be sure that the pump is indeed the problem before i do that.
and thanks for the response, pi!
im ready to drop the tank and replace the pump, i just want to be sure that the pump is indeed the problem before i do that.
and thanks for the response, pi!
The FP line goes straight to the fuel pump, no relays involved. With 12A of current draw it is unlikely to be anything but the pump.
car has been sitting for a long time. ill go ahead and drop the tank and replace the pump. i probably need to clean the inside of the tank anyway. thanks for the help, gents!
heh well, i'm guessing this isn't the way this thing is supposed to look:
inside of the gas tank looks like this too. i was gonna try a chain + gas + lots of agitation to clean it out, but i dont think that is going ot cut it. instead, im gonna take it to a shop that can clean it out properly and reline it. hopefully it wont be too expensive. anyone had this done recently and can give me an idea of what a fair price might be?
inside of the gas tank looks like this too. i was gonna try a chain + gas + lots of agitation to clean it out, but i dont think that is going ot cut it. instead, im gonna take it to a shop that can clean it out properly and reline it. hopefully it wont be too expensive. anyone had this done recently and can give me an idea of what a fair price might be?
Wow, that's...well yeah you might want to do something about that!
My car has been sitting for years, so I cant imagine what the pump and hangar look like in mine. If that is any indication, looks like a whole new fuel system is in my future!
My car has been sitting for years, so I cant imagine what the pump and hangar look like in mine. If that is any indication, looks like a whole new fuel system is in my future!
replaced the pump and installed my newly reconditioned gas tank. car started right up!
unfortunately, i have now discovered my AFM is fucked up. probably from when i cleaned it with electronics/MAF cleaner.
i suppose these things cant really be repaired?
it is normal for there to be some smoke coming from the engine compartment after initial startup on a rebuild? just a few wisps coming off the hotside. maybe the gaskets breaking in? i did paint the exh manifold with high temp paint, so maybe that?
also, my temp gauge and maybe my fuel gauge seem to not be working at all. speedo and tach work, as does oil pressure. havent taken the car out for a ride yet, so cant verify if boost works. how can i troubleshoot the temp gauge?
unfortunately, i have now discovered my AFM is fucked up. probably from when i cleaned it with electronics/MAF cleaner.
i suppose these things cant really be repaired?it is normal for there to be some smoke coming from the engine compartment after initial startup on a rebuild? just a few wisps coming off the hotside. maybe the gaskets breaking in? i did paint the exh manifold with high temp paint, so maybe that?
also, my temp gauge and maybe my fuel gauge seem to not be working at all. speedo and tach work, as does oil pressure. havent taken the car out for a ride yet, so cant verify if boost works. how can i troubleshoot the temp gauge?
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thanks IJ, ill keep an eye on it. seems to already be smoking less.
ok so, i took it out for a spin. i hadnt driven it, just started it and rev'd it gently in the driveway. anyway, i was going to test the afm, but first i wanted to see how the car would drive with the AFM unplugged (make sure it still drove/idle'd to eliminate other things like fuel or whatever). so anyway, i drove it and it was fine as long as i stayed under 3k rpms and less than 30% throttle. this confirmed that i should be suspicious of the AFM (right?).
so then, for shits and giggles, i stopped the car, turned it off, plugged the afm back in, fired it up, and tried driving it around. it was hesitant at first, but then after 1 or 2 stumbles, it took off. now it is driving perfectly! could it have been a residue on the sensor, or maybe just a year of cobwebs that had to be burned off? was the car re-learning or something?
so yea, ive taken it out for 3 separate drives since then, and all 3 times it started right up and drove really smoothly.
also, i am now able to confirm all the gauges are moving except the temp gauge. the needle is flatlined at the very bottom of the gauge, doesnt even twitch.
the coolant temp sensor is the blue plug on the thermostat housing, right? i had a problem with that plug... it broke off when i was disassembling and i had to take the connector apart and solder the pin back onto the wire. i think i did a good job of it, but im guessing this is my problem. how can i test this?
one other thing... the oil pressure gauge is disturbing me a little. it sits near 0 when the car is at idle. at 3000+ rpm, it goes up to 40ish though. should that be worrysome? i havent driven the car in so long i can't remember if it was always like this.
ok so, i took it out for a spin. i hadnt driven it, just started it and rev'd it gently in the driveway. anyway, i was going to test the afm, but first i wanted to see how the car would drive with the AFM unplugged (make sure it still drove/idle'd to eliminate other things like fuel or whatever). so anyway, i drove it and it was fine as long as i stayed under 3k rpms and less than 30% throttle. this confirmed that i should be suspicious of the AFM (right?).
so then, for shits and giggles, i stopped the car, turned it off, plugged the afm back in, fired it up, and tried driving it around. it was hesitant at first, but then after 1 or 2 stumbles, it took off. now it is driving perfectly! could it have been a residue on the sensor, or maybe just a year of cobwebs that had to be burned off? was the car re-learning or something?
so yea, ive taken it out for 3 separate drives since then, and all 3 times it started right up and drove really smoothly.
also, i am now able to confirm all the gauges are moving except the temp gauge. the needle is flatlined at the very bottom of the gauge, doesnt even twitch.
the coolant temp sensor is the blue plug on the thermostat housing, right? i had a problem with that plug... it broke off when i was disassembling and i had to take the connector apart and solder the pin back onto the wire. i think i did a good job of it, but im guessing this is my problem. how can i test this?
one other thing... the oil pressure gauge is disturbing me a little. it sits near 0 when the car is at idle. at 3000+ rpm, it goes up to 40ish though. should that be worrysome? i havent driven the car in so long i can't remember if it was always like this.
heh update...
had the a/c coolant temp sensor and the gauge cluster sensor switched.
fixed, and now i have a temp gauge! also did some research about oil pressure and i guess im dead on with ~5 at idle and 40 at 3000rpms.
next problem: no a/c and no heat. hitting the a/c button doesnt seem to cause the compressor to kick on.
annnd another update!
the VSV at the heater valve is d-e-d. or at least, it isnt switching when i turn the heat on. direct-lined the vacuum to the solenoid and the plunger came up and the heat came on strong.
will test the vsv and acquire a new one if necessary. then i will start looking into the lack of A/C.
really great to be driving this thing again! forgot how good it feels to get pushed into the back of my seat. need more boost though.
had the a/c coolant temp sensor and the gauge cluster sensor switched.
fixed, and now i have a temp gauge! also did some research about oil pressure and i guess im dead on with ~5 at idle and 40 at 3000rpms.
next problem: no a/c and no heat. hitting the a/c button doesnt seem to cause the compressor to kick on.
annnd another update!
the VSV at the heater valve is d-e-d. or at least, it isnt switching when i turn the heat on. direct-lined the vacuum to the solenoid and the plunger came up and the heat came on strong.
will test the vsv and acquire a new one if necessary. then i will start looking into the lack of A/C.
really great to be driving this thing again! forgot how good it feels to get pushed into the back of my seat. need more boost though.
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