Some Questions, 1jz Many look.

[92TealSupra]

Alright. I have now taken apart my whole 1jz motor now. I did not dissemble the bottom end.. everything else is off only thing left in there is a crank, rods, pistons bearings, rings extent.. I have some question though.

1.) Would it be a good idea to buy 2jz arp head studs, I would be able to reuse them, and for now I am using a stock MHG.

2.) Do i use a copper spray with a stock MHG for the 1jz. Should i get a 2JZ MHG is one better then the other, and also i don't understand how you can use a 1jz head gasket and a 2jz one, one engine is a 2.5 and the other is a 3.0

3.) Where can I get 2JZ torque specs, like the TSRM for the Ma70 with a 7m-GTE is there anything like at for the 2JZ. I have been told I can use the 2JZ torque specs for everything on my 1JZ, I am double checking here.

4.) The surface for the stock HG I took off is a little dirty, black sealant, or something I removed most, I am making sure it doesn't have to be resurfaced for a 110% finish,, I know this is a MHG in all.

5.) Is there anything I should know about anything, if so let me know, i am sure I forgot some questions and everything. I am trying to do this swap by myself with no help from friends around me.

I want to see if I can do this, I did a write up on the wiring how to do a Soarer harness in a m70 if anyone wants it, it made for '89-92, but I did it on my '92, thanks.

 

[viperkillertt]

2: the heads have the same dimensions so the head gaskets are interchangeable. The heads and blocks are also interchangeable. I would highly recommend a new headgasket if you are planning on boosting high, but others will say reuse it. It is up to you.

 

[suprahero]

Eathan, I would order the 1jz gasket set from aaron and be done with it. The stock hg is all you'll need for your car. It's going to hold more horsepower than you can throw at it, and you'll only need a bigger gasket if you remove a lot of the surface from the head and the block which you shouldn't have to do since it wasn't hurt.
http://store.driftmotion.com/Static/Item1jzcompleteenginegasketset.php

As for the copper spray, I don't think you use it on the new gaskets, only when reusing it on another rebuild. You'd better double check to make sure though. I've read a few posts on that, but my memory isn't so good.

I would definately buy the ARP head studs. There's no way that I wouldn't buy them.
http://store.driftmotion.com/Static/Itemarp203-4205.php

Are you going to tear the bottom end apart? If so here are the rings you should need if the block's never been bored. You can check the bore with some micrometers to verify.
Just make sure you have an 86mm bore.
http://store.driftmotion.com/Static/Item1jzstandardsizeringset.php

If you take it apart you will need to replace the bearings as well.
http://store.driftmotion.com/Static/Itemacl1jz2jzracebearingset.php

Are you going to rebuild it yourself? If you're going to take it to a machine shop, they can polish the crank and make sure the stock bearings will work. If not, they'll order what you need. Good luck.

 

[91 mK3]

just buy a 1jz gasket set from champion toyota and it comes with everything. it runs about 140. if u use a new gasket, then toe copper spray is not needed. the copper stuff is jusut for old gaskets, to help make it seal better. arp head studs can be re-used but only twice i think

 

[92TealSupra]

Eathan, I would order the 1jz gasket set from aaron and be done with it. The stock hg is all you'll need for your car. It's going to hold more horsepower than you can throw at it, and you'll only need a bigger gasket if you remove a lot of the surface from the head and the block which you shouldn't have to do since it wasn't hurt.
http://store.driftmotion.com/Static/Item1jzcompleteenginegasketset.php

As for the copper spray, I don't think you use it on the new gaskets, only when reusing it on another rebuild. You'd better double check to make sure though. I've read a few posts on that, but my memory isn't so good.

I would definately buy the ARP head studs. There's no way that I wouldn't buy them.
http://store.driftmotion.com/Static/Itemarp203-4205.php

Are you going to tear the bottom end apart? If so here are the rings you should need if the block's never been bored. You can check the bore with some micrometers to verify.
Just make sure you have an 86mm bore.
http://store.driftmotion.com/Static/Item1jzstandardsizeringset.php

If you take it apart you will need to replace the bearings as well.
http://store.driftmotion.com/Static/Itemacl1jz2jzracebearingset.php

Are you going to rebuild it yourself? If you're going to take it to a machine shop, they can polish the crank and make sure the stock bearings will work. If not, they'll order what you need. Good luck.

Hey Jay. I ordered a 1jz gasket kit from Jeff at Champion 152.00 shipped. I am not going to rebuild the bottom end, I kind of wan to get this engine running 1st, and the bottom end looked great in there. The stock gasket set comes with a nice metal HG I will use that, and I am 110% definitely getting ARP head studs.

Everything is going well, I am cleaning all the parts on the motor, oil pan looks brand new, the a/c compressor I ripped out the internals to save weight, and it sure did.

 

[suprahero]

Good to hear.

 

[Slow_Sc3]

when you ask me questions over the phone does it just go in one ear and out the other???

 

[aphxero]

Arp is totally worth the money. I always do 20, 40, 0, 40, 80 ft lb. 80 is a little high but I've never had to retorque them. Just make sure you use moly and all that.

I recently did a full reseal like yopure saying. Anything that wasnt gasket I used permatex ultra grey works great!
Good luck

 

[suprahero]

I've retorqued mine everytime, but only because the smarter people on here told me too. I usually listen to people that know more than I do.

The ARP's come with instructions that tell you how high to torque them to.