some more questions

[doom26464]

ok So i got my metal headgasket im going to take it too the machine shop now. The car has arp headbolts in it from last time I did the headgasket. So im assuming the torque valve for them should be the same for metal headgasket as the stock one?? 75lbs right? (its a 2.0mm cometic MHG)

and also my machine shop suggested
I should flush out my oil cooler incase there are small shards of metal in it. Though unless he said it flows back into the filter. Now my questions is does the oil from the cooler flow back into the filter and will it catch the small pieces of metal. and if not how do I get them out?? I looked at them today and they look kind of tuff to get off does this require me to pull the front bumper???

 

[CRE]

Yes, 75ft lbs IF the threads are lubed with moly... it's higher if you're lubing them with motor oil.

Dunno about the oil cooler.

 

[jdub]

The stock oil cooler is fed via the relief valve (pre-filter) on the stock filter head. The oil flows from the cooler straight to the pan.

 

[arz]

ok So i got my metal headgasket im going to take it too the machine shop now. The car has arp headbolts in it from last time I did the headgasket. So im assuming the torque valve for them should be the same for metal headgasket as the stock one?? 75lbs right? (its a 2.0mm cometic MHG)

and also my machine shop suggested
I should flush out my oil cooler incase there are small shards of metal in it. Though unless he said it flows back into the filter. Now my questions is does the oil from the cooler flow back into the filter and will it catch the small pieces of metal. and if not how do I get them out?? I looked at them today and they look kind of tuff to get off does this require me to pull the front bumper???

No it doesnt require removal of the bumper. You might as well replace the soft lines if they look worn or leaky. Its like six 6mm fasteners (10mm head) to get a majority of the lines out. I just did mine last week cause I yanked the stock IC for a cleaning and other stuff.

BTW those little pieces will go thru the oil pump before they get to the filter. It would be best if you could remove it and flush it, relatively easy job if you have it on a lift.

 

[doom26464]

Ok I guess I will try and remove it and flush it. Any suggestions on how or what to flush it with? garden hoses and hot water??

 

[doom26464]

Yes, 75ft lbs IF the threads are lubed with moly... it's higher if you're lubing them with motor oil.

Dunno about the oil cooler.

whats the valvue for motor oil?

 

[CRE]

I don't recall, but ARP has it on their site. It was somewhere around 80-85ft lbs. with 30W oil.

 

[doom26464]

I don't recall, but ARP has it on their site. It was somewhere around 80-85ft lbs. with 30W oil.

couldn't find the exact amount..... just listed the rod bolt specifications.

 

[jdub]

Here's the latest ARP spec sheet for the bolts:



Since we have an aluminum head, I would get the ARP moly lube and torque to 75 ft/lbs.

 

[Poodles]

use moly lube

motor oil will depend on the additive, ect... just not easy to say the torque spec because each brand would be different...

 

[doom26464]

ahhh shit I guess I told the machine shop to put it at 85lbs. So now the engine is all assembled and done and well its done at 85lbs lol. Oh well im sure 10lbs over can't hurt it that much anyways.

block was hot tanked as well thats fine right? I remebe reading that the frost plugs have to get replaced and I asked them and they said they checked all the water jackets and said they are fine.

 

[doom26464]

bump.