Some comments on removing seized suspension bolts

[dumbo]

Jewlers torch on O2/acetalyne or the Torch that uses MAP/O2. I use the latter. Focused heat. Cherry red nut. I only do that on sized bolts. It is coming off at that point.

Another idea if you have the equipment, TiG without adding material to the nut. Works well.

Thats my first choice as well.

interesting jackstand placement you've got there...

haha, atleast his crease on the body there is still nice straight.

make sure to put anti seize on the new bolt, should help prevent it for a few years.

Yup thats something I use most everywhere, with in reason of course.




I had to pull out my upper A-arms to do my coilovers, they popped right out, is it the lower one that are typically a lot more stubborn?

 

[prsrcokr]

The uppers don't have a cam sytle bolt (offset metal bolt inside metal sleeve) like the lowers (one reason people look to adj. uppers arms, ours have no adjustment)

Looked like the problem came from the factory not using antiseize at least in my case. Surprising but they've got to have a couple flaws. The bolts were basically bonded to the sleeves, not a case of some rust holding them from turning.
I broke the bushings from trying to turn the bolts. Cutting was a time consumer but I didn't want to use heat since we wanted to reuse the arms and subframe. I'd also recommend reinforcement of the tabs that hold the cams in place, many of mine had bent so I ran a bead behind each. So far they're holding in place and allowing the cams to stay on my marks.

Good writeups guys, this will help let folks know what they're getting into.
Nylon replacements here too. Eexcept the rear pivot bushings and trailing arm, pivot bushing was made to pivot, gives varying toe on braking and a couple of us found the trailing arm (#1?, round w/ swaybar tabs) would snap with a harder bushing in place as they were binding. Had one break at ~100 mph, fun!

Brian

 

[toy fanatic78]

i just went through that yesterday. :icon_evil

i couldn't align my car because of the seized bolt on the right lower control arm, plus the bushings were toast. so i grabrf a spare with good bushing to find that that bolt was not coming out of that bushing sleeve. so i did what i had to do on my mazda. on word. SAWSALL. and of course the right blade. i use a tungstin(sp) blade that doesn't really have teeth. just a very hard course blade. that riped right through the bushing sleeve and bolt. and i went from the inside where the arm sits in the subframe. instead of trying to cut the nut and head off.

Used the same type of blade for mine,had to cut out all 8 cam bolts,the rest came right out.It sucked,but hopefully will not have to do it ever again.

 

[black89t]

^word.

the regular metal blades won't get throught the bushing sleeve. only the bolt.

 

[funky_monkey58]

Weird I replaced my bushing the other day and just used a 1/2 drive ratchet and some muscle. No problems at all.

 

[toy fanatic78]

Weird I replaced my bushing the other day and just used a 1/2 drive ratchet and some muscle. No problems at all.

Depends on the car,seems to be a bigger problem up north due to rust,winter,road salt etc.
My cressidas were like that,one was a nightmare,the other one came apart w/o a single problem(weird part is the easy one had twice as many miles as the one that came apart hard.)

 

[7Mboost]

interesting jackstand placement you've got there...

Why do you say?

 

[Davismj711]

Seems 7M has a valid question :: As per TSRM

http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?Section=IN&P=12

Have I been reading that schematic wrong ?

Good luck with those bolts. I hope mine are the little bit of muscle type. No harm in hoping.

 

[OneJArpus]

i must be lucky, i pulled mine out with a good ol rachet and pipe, took seconds. Then coated them in anti seize. Now i can take em out in no time.