solid subframe bushing issue...

[black89t]

so i broke another subframe and this time instead of just throwing one in there i decided im going to reinforce it and solid mount it. so im in the process of reinforcing it and my bushings showed up yestereday so i decided to see how they fit and actually work cause i was slightly confused at first with how these make it mount solid. and after actually setting them on the subframe and looking at things i don't think they really make the subframe solid mount. yes they make the subframe sit on a sollid surface but they don't seem to mount it solidly. the stock bushing and sleeve is still going to be whats holding it in place. i took some pics to see what im talking about.






so what you seee here is the rear solid bushing sitting flush on the frame and the washer/cup sitting on flush on the bushing sleeve. so say i install it as it sits when i torque it down its going to rip the sleeve up to where it seats agains the body and the cup prolly end up just touching the stock pad. so how does this solid mount it? to me it seems the bushing is still whats going to hold it in place which will allow the subframe to be able to bounce down cause the pad for the cup is soft rubber. and even then the metal the cup is made out of is thin and not to strong. im not trying to rip on beech performance cause there are others selling the same thing. i just went with his cause all his products seem to be well thoughtout and built. if somebody could pleases enlighten me on how these are affective that would be great!

 

[GrimJack]

You're right, this doesn't solid mount the frame. I've only seen one guy do that, and I'm pretty sure he only machined a single set of the inserts. And he was from Scandinavia... they're all car crazy over there.

 

[hvyman]

Why not use poly bushings?

 

[black89t]

You're right, this doesn't solid mount the frame. I've only seen one guy do that, and I'm pretty sure he only machined a single set of the inserts. And he was from Scandinavia... they're all car crazy over there.

haha yes they are! so many builds ive seen from europe are mind blowing!!!

Why not use poly bushings?

cause i looked all over and it seem the only sets i can get are off ebay from a guy in poland or possibly ronniek but i have a time frame i needed to get this done in. cause theres a autocross this weekend i want to make and also one of the last street legals drags is the following weekend. plus i hate having my car down....so i didn't want to wait who knows how long to get them. beech got me his set in a matter of days. had great customer service so i went with it. i mean do you guys think theyre worth putting in? i figured if bic and beech two of i what i would say our best quality parts builder make them then they have to be functional. just would be nice to hear some first had experience on them.

 

[GrimJack]

I use the hard plastic ones from BIC. They sure are noisier than stock... whether they make a significant difference is still up in the air, but I don't have any regrets.

 

[Ds650rida]

Why not contact beech with your concern?


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[Albert]

Just make you own solid bushings

 

[Ds650rida]

What material did u make them from albert? And are the dimentions the same for all bushings? How about the front? And also to be clear the overall length is 3.547" and the width is 4.00" diameter and not 4.00" from center?


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[Albert]

Yes and yes

6061-t6

 

[Tgood]

You should start selling those albert

 

[Albert]

You should start selling those albert

Only get 1-2 people a year that want them, and it is a big Project for just 6 pieces.

Not worth it, no one would pay that high of a price.

 

[GrimJack]

Only get 1-2 people a year that want them, and it is a big Project for just 6 pieces.

Not worth it, no one would pay that high of a price.

How high of a price would it be?

 

[Tgood]

How high of a price would it be?

X2

 

[fixitman04]

x3

 

[Prism11]

I had looked at making a set for myself at one point, but the material alone was ~$180 for just the rear 6. It wasnt worth it to me.

 

[Albert]

I had looked at making a set for myself at one point, but the material alone was ~$180 for just the rear 6. It wasnt worth it to me.

Right then looking at machine cost was like $300 on the low side

 

[Prism11]

Yea, that sounds about right, machine time is never cheap. I don't think anyone would be willing to pay that.

One of these days I'll find some spare stock at work and make some, but until then I'm thinking of trying some out of 90A urethane

 

[GrimJack]

Right then looking at machine cost was like $300 on the low side

So... does that mean $300 all in, or $300 in machine work plus another $180 in materials?

 

[black89t]

since this popped up i figured i would update the thread with what i did. ended up getting a subframe from a buddy's parts car that was an automatic and never modded. was in perfect shape plus i added some bracing to help strengthen it. pretty sure it was 11 gauge also i made sure to clamp the metal nice and flush before welding. really focused on the right side where they always seem to crack. the drian hole is really close to the mounting point and i think weakens it. the cracks always spider down and toward that hole.

as far as the solid bushings things are noticable louder but my wheel hop did go away for the most part. but that could have been because the new subframe. eventurally i'll swap them out for some poly bushings but until then this will work fine. sure would be nice if somebody in the US made a set...

 

[becauseican]

I also make the solid subframe spacers, you are right that it doesnt make it a full solid mounting system, but it does take the majority of subframe movement out, as it cannot compress. The stock subframe bushings have up to an inch of movement if you pry the sub frame up and down with a pry bar. I can not speak for the Beech parts, but the BIC Solid Subframe spacers are designed with a certain amount of preload of the stock bushing to limit any down travel of the subframe. With the BIC bushings installed this travel is drastically reduced. The only time that you would get any movement would be when the full weight of the car is off the wheels...ie jumping or rebounding after a large bump in the road.

When I did the R&D on the bushings on may car, I also made some steel disks to fit on the bottom between the subframe and the outer washer plate, I didnt find it any stiffer while driving or racing. It did not seem to affect the ride at all.

It is also beneficial to add some front to rear bracing between the two cross beams on the subframe. I did mine at the top just to the outside of the upper diff mount holes.

Randy