soldering iron

Bri7man

"Yeah! Take the lemons.."
Jul 17, 2009
580
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Torrance, CA
I bought a orange soldering iron from Harbor Frieght a while ago and it's never been able to get the wires I'm soldering hot enough to melt the solder on it.

I've been "bubble" soldering with it since I got it by melting the bead on the iron then rubbing it on but it's really been a hassle and doesn't work very well. I've seen vids on youtube of people soldering and being able to get the wire hot enough to run the solder on it and it evenly disperses on the wires.

What are good soldering irons that aren't too expensive?
 

jetjock

creepy-ass cracka
Jul 11, 2005
9,439
0
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Redacted per Title 18 USC Section 798
1) It's from Harbor Fright.

2) What wattage is it?

3) What you're calling "bubble soldering" is bad technique.

4) Did I mention it's from Harbor Fright?

5) For auto use one of the Master Appliance models. Specifically the 40si or 100si. Lots of power, adjustable, no electricity needed. I wouldn't exactly call them inexpensive but good tools are an investment...
 

RiyadYar

Supramania Contributor
Nov 20, 2007
384
0
16
NY
the trick to a good solder joint is flux once you start playing with that it will run along the wire lovely because it will attract the solder to the metal .
 

figgie

Supramania Contributor
Mar 30, 2005
5,225
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50
Twin Cities, Minnesot-ah
I have a temp controllered soldering station, might be pricer but the temp control is invaluable! No need for flux when set at the right temprature.... 24volt tip.
 

adampecush

Regular Supramaniac
May 11, 2006
2,118
3
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Edmonton
figgie;1443235 said:
I have a temp controllered soldering station, might be pricer but the temp control is invaluable! No need for flux when set at the right temprature.... 24volt tip.

agreed. the hotter you can get the tip, the less time you have to have the soldering iron in contact with the wire, minimizing the melting/stiffening of the wire covering.

the difference between a temp controlled soldering station and a cheap iron is night and day.
 

CajunKenny

PULL MY FINGER. PLEASE!
Nov 15, 2007
3,255
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Washington
Here's what I use. It's a Hako 936. It's the Non-ESD version. I picked it up from Fry's for ~70 bucks.

Excuse my bench. This is my personal bench at home so I don't have to keep this one clean... ;)



p1443282_1.jpg
 

Poodles

I play with fire
Jul 22, 2006
16,757
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Fort Worth, TX
If the wires are corroded, cut back to clean wire. Corrosion causes resistance which causes heat, which leads to thermal runaway.

Flux isn't needed (most solder has it in it).

Soldering guns tend to get too hot for small wires and they'll melt the insulation very quickly.
 

Bri7man

"Yeah! Take the lemons.."
Jul 17, 2009
580
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Torrance, CA
What I mean by bubble soldering is since I can't get the wire hot enough to have the solder melt directly to it I melt the solder on the iron till its a bubble and drag it across the wire. Really hard to do in tight places and insecure in the longrun.

I strip all my wires before soldering too so I'm pretty sure it's the iron.

So do you just paint the flux on the wire and it helps somehow?

A video I saw on youtube this guy didn't even use flux and the solder just melted right on the wire like butter.

Why I bring this up is because I was soldering a vsv connecter under the IM earlier and that is not fun one bit with no room and on top of that my soldering iron being a piece so it's time to get a better one for sure. I actually had to hoist my engine up a foot or two to do it. I dropped my motor in today and thank god I hadn't tightened my motor mounts just yet.
 

CajunKenny

PULL MY FINGER. PLEASE!
Nov 15, 2007
3,255
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Washington
Have you cleaned the tip of the iron? Wet a sponge and then ring it out. After the soldering iron is nice and hot, drag the tip of the iron across the sponge. This should leave you with a clean tip.

If the tip is too bad, lightly (I stress LIGHTLY) scrape it clean with an exacto knife or something similar. Then run it across the sponge.

A few things are happening here:

1. Dirty soldering tip = low heat transfer = difficulty melting solder

2. Your solder is too thick for the job. What gauge solder are you using?

3. Your iron is simply not working properly.

Flux aids in soldering by helping solder adhere and flow to whatever you're soldering. I use it daily at work. Even on 'clean' work.

Flux is available in a couple of ways. Bottles and Pens. You will want the pen. Go to Radio Shack and ask them for a Flux Pen.

Flux Pens work like Paint Pens. You push the tip down a few times to get the flux flowing then just rub it on your work. Then you solder.
 

adampecush

Regular Supramaniac
May 11, 2006
2,118
3
38
Edmonton
CajunKenny;1443282 said:
Here's what I use. It's a Hako 936. It's the Non-ESD version. I picked it up from Fry's for ~70 bucks.

Excuse my bench. This is my personal bench at home so I don't have to keep this one clean... ;)



p1443500_1.jpg

exact same one I use. great piece of equipment.
 

bfr1992t

The quiet one
Oct 29, 2005
272
0
16
Ohio
W25 and W60 with a selection of tips. Temp controlled but not the station model with the dial. I used to assemble and test circuit boards and sources for x-ray gauges used in the US and Asian steel industries. Nice scope. I have an old HP too.

To the OP, my guess is you have the type with the tip that screws in. Try cleaning the threads, or just twist it a few times then snug it up. Most of the cheap guns/irons use cheap metals that oxidize quickly so they need this done each time you use it. You get what you pay for.
 

MarkIII4Me

Project OVERKILL!!!
Apr 10, 2005
1,249
2
38
Charleston, SC
I was having the same issue with a cheapy Autozone iron. However, it turned out that it was due to the shitty solder that iron came with. I bought different solder and now have no issues. There is still some technique required. I'll hold the iron under the wires for a few seconds. For some reason the wires don't get hot enough to melt the solder at first, however, I melt the solder against the iron and the wires. Once the solder melts initially, I drag the solder line right across the top of the wires and it continues to melt as long as I keep the solder iron pressed against the bottom of the wires.
 

Bri7man

"Yeah! Take the lemons.."
Jul 17, 2009
580
0
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35
Torrance, CA
yeah it's got the screw in tip and I kind messed it up dragging it across the cement ground trying to clean it while soldering something upside down and tangled under my car...lol

I haven't tried the sponge technique and the flux pen but I will def go buy it. I'm not sure how to determine gauge so I figured I'd take a pic of the solder and iron as well for reference.

sm_photo_missing.jpg

If it will do I'll keep it but otherwise if someone could recommend one that will work great w/o breaking the bank I'd appreciate it.
 

CajunKenny

PULL MY FINGER. PLEASE!
Nov 15, 2007
3,255
0
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Washington
supra90turbo: As long as you can get replacement tips and heating elements, it's a good buy. It'd be nice to have some sort of temperature indicator though.

I run mine at 800*F most of the time. I only run it hotter for EXTREMELY large jobs. 800-850 usually gets the job done.
 

CajunKenny

PULL MY FINGER. PLEASE!
Nov 15, 2007
3,255
0
0
Washington
Bri7man;1443827 said:
yeah it's got the screw in tip and I kind messed it up dragging it across the cement ground trying to clean it while soldering something upside down and tangled under my car...lol

I haven't tried the sponge technique and the flux pen but I will def go buy it. I'm not sure how to determine gauge so I figured I'd take a pic of the solder and iron as well for reference.


This is probably your problem. No more heat transfer...
 
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