I learned that you add water to the battery when you're filling it up to dilute the acid, but thats just me.
So ya know how i wanted to relocate the battery?
- Thread starter IwantMKIII
- Start date
Doward said:
Well im away right now on vaca so no pics for awhile. Water won't react much, it depends what and how much of impurities are in it.
$160 for an optima?? That's cheap around here. I payed $200 for my red top. Oh, but it came with a really cool case that I will never use. :wuteva:
Fuzz420
Are U Here 2 take My Baby
not the first time ive heard of an optima killing its self, if it had relief valves like some of its competitors i believe this situation would be much better.I dont run optima for a reason, goodluck to you
Fuzz: It wasn't an Optima it was a standard lead/acid battery.
The Optima's are Gel so don't vent until 15v.
The Optima's are Gel so don't vent until 15v.
wow, that sucks dude. Well at least you did the right thing, the optima is the way to go but for those that have deep pockets should look into the Odyssey batteries. They are the best and for stock electrical systems w/o too many electrical products added the 900 is great, but for added accessories the larger current output batteries' best suited. Although I always suggest keeping the battery in its' stock location as relocating to the back of the car requires many mods that most people rarely end up doing the first time around and then it leads to failures that force the mods to be done eventually. All power and ground cables need to increase almost relative to the increase in distance. so that means a starter wire of 1/0 gauge and an Alternator wire of atleast 2 ga. and so on. I usually run a single 0 ga. to the front of the car and distribute from that point which is another task as a clean compact distribution block is not that common. Anyways, good luck to you and your relocation mods.
I have yet to move my battery because I am afraid of the possibility of acid fumes inside the car. If the battery or alternator decided to short or worse...I can't picture it being too good for you. Plus, don't batteries vent noxious fumes as a matter of course?
Am I worrying about nothing? Unfounded? Breathing battery acid fumes...too scary!
Can someone knowledgeable on this subject sort me out on how this can be safe?
Am I worrying about nothing? Unfounded? Breathing battery acid fumes...too scary!
Can someone knowledgeable on this subject sort me out on how this can be safe?
CampbellsChunkySoupra said:
Something kind of like this?
http://www.bsrproducts.com/product_info.php?products_id=2549
suprabad said:
it's not a concern if you do it PROPERLY (i.e. non-spillable battery, sealed box, etc.). 90% of the "relocations" you see here are not only dangerous but plain stupid. this thread is a great example of what happens when you don't spend the time to do something right.
See the vent tube:
See the lack of grommets where the cables penetrate the box:
If I ever go back & put those grommets in - it'll be a sealed box w/ vent. If I ever go that far - I might even route the vent outside the car.
- not an unfounded concern, Suprabad. Just less so w/ an Optima.
See the lack of grommets where the cables penetrate the box:
If I ever go back & put those grommets in - it'll be a sealed box w/ vent. If I ever go that far - I might even route the vent outside the car.
- not an unfounded concern, Suprabad. Just less so w/ an Optima.
If you are 100% efficient in neutralizing the acid, you would need exactly 51% of the total weight of acid spilled in baking soda (sodium bicarbonate) to stop the damage given a typical battery acid strength of 30% sulfuric acid and this chemical equation:
2 NaHCO3 + H2SO4 ---> Na2SO4 + 2 H2O + 2 CO2
So for each lb of battery acid spilled you would need just over half a pound of dry baking soda to fully neutralize it - no matter how far you dilute it.
2 NaHCO3 + H2SO4 ---> Na2SO4 + 2 H2O + 2 CO2
So for each lb of battery acid spilled you would need just over half a pound of dry baking soda to fully neutralize it - no matter how far you dilute it.
Shytheed Dumas said:If you are 100% efficient in neutralizing the acid, you would need exactly 51% of the total weight of acid spilled in baking soda (sodium bicarbonate) to stop the damage given a typical battery acid strength of 30% sulfuric acid and this chemical equation:
2 NaHCO3 + H2SO4 ---> Na2SO4 + 2 H2O + 2 CO2
So for each lb of battery acid spilled you would need just over half a pound of dry baking soda to fully neutralize it - no matter how far you dilute it.
Any extra we can just use to make crack-cocain :biglaugh:
....and then people look at me all dumbfounded when I use NHRA approved bat box in the back.
this is the freaking reason you don't do it.
The SAME freaking reason you don't run fuel lines INSIDE the car!
The SAME freaking reason you don't run OIL LINES inside the car!
this is the freaking reason you don't do it.
The SAME freaking reason you don't run fuel lines INSIDE the car!
The SAME freaking reason you don't run OIL LINES inside the car!
Fuzz420
Are U Here 2 take My Baby
^^on vaca right now
haha, its true, at least was. The acid ate the carpet for a good 12 hours or so before it stopped. It wasn't pretty.
IJ. said:On a quiet night you can hear his Mk3 dissolving
haha, its true, at least was. The acid ate the carpet for a good 12 hours or so before it stopped. It wasn't pretty.
\\Shytheed Dumas said:If you are 100% efficient in neutralizing the acid, you would need exactly 51% of the total weight of acid spilled in baking soda (sodium bicarbonate) to stop the damage given a typical battery acid strength of 30% sulfuric acid and this chemical equation:
2 NaHCO3 + H2SO4 ---> Na2SO4 + 2 H2O + 2 CO2
So for each lb of battery acid spilled you would need just over half a pound of dry baking soda to fully neutralize it - no matter how far you dilute it.
there was probably 10~12fl oz. of acid all together. I used probably 2~3lbs (80% of which dry) to try to neutralize and flush the car