so i retorque my new HG

M

malloynx

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Mar 30, 2005
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so i installed the new cometic last week. i had a cometic already in there and i lifted the head at 24psi of boost on my 67mm. i was running brand new ARP studs when i installed the first MHG and some of the middle studs were loose.

I'm thinking now that the studs have stretched and i installed my new mhg at 95 ft. lbs, should i just leave them be or go back and check them?
 
turbo4toy

turbo4toy

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Apr 2, 2005
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sorry to thread jack but it's somewhat related. I recently did a HG job and was an idiot and didn't use ARP bolts. Anyway my question is this: If i switch them out should i just losten one at a time (in the right sequence) and put the new ones in or losen all of them and retorque in the specified sequence?
 
N

NDBoost

Guest
turbo4toy said:
sorry to thread jack but it's somewhat related. I recently did a HG job and was an idiot and didn't use ARP bolts. Anyway my question is this: If i switch them out should i just losten one at a time (in the right sequence) and put the new ones in or losen all of them and retorque in the specified sequence?
Click to expand...
IF you were to do this and i wouldnt.

You should do them one at a time and do it very carefully lol..
 
ross1

ross1

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Jul 14, 2005
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in a sarcastis asshole voice... does this mean we have to wait even longer for malloy dyno vid v.3?

sorry for you but i bet it'll be back and better this time around...

ross
 
suprahero

suprahero

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What is the right sequence to torque the studs down? Can someone please answer without me having to search? Yes I am that lazy........lol
 
suprahero

suprahero

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Thanks IJ........I seriously tried to go to tsrm earlier today and it wouldn't let me. It said that the host page's time had run out. I tried it three or four times and it said the same thing every time. Thanks again for the help.

While I'm ignoring the 58 ft/lbs.......what SHOULD I tourque them to? I've been told by another member to go to 72ft/lbs, but I have also heard 80. Since your so clever and obviously a genius....what are your's torqued to?
 
suprahero

suprahero

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Yes I'm using the ARP studs, but I just ordered them tonight from HPF.com, so I wont get them for a few days. I'll follow the instruction to the T when I get them though.

Maybe not a genius, but at least a gentleman and a scholar......:biglaugh:
 
suprahero

suprahero

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Yeah, I had read somewhere to get something called copper spray, or something to that effect. I'm going to get the Brake Quiet spray and try it. Hopefully I won't have to use it again for a while.
 
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IJ.

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I've used a bunch of products over the years including GM Head Bolt sealer Copper Spray Hylomar and a few other obscure ones but so far I really like the Permatex just try to NOT touch the surface once it's sprayed! ;)

(do a test spray on some cardboard and touch it you'll see why)
 
7

7M-GTE

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Apr 2, 2005
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suprahero said:
Thanks IJ........I seriously tried to go to tsrm earlier today and it wouldn't let me. It said that the host page's time had run out. I tried it three or four times and it said the same thing every time. Thanks again for the help.

While I'm ignoring the 58 ft/lbs.......what SHOULD I tourque them to? I've been told by another member to go to 72ft/lbs, but I have also heard 80. Since your so clever and obviously a genius....what are your's torqued to?
Click to expand...


I have mine torqued to 90ft/lbs and it's workin fine...
 
H

Halsupramk3

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Apr 4, 2005
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if the mhg is flat it wont make any impressions into the aluminum head when the engine heats up and expands. If anything is going to compress enough to change the torque yeild it would the head. the mhg will compress very very little unlike a oem that has fire rings and composite material.

I would think that retorqueing a metal head gasket would be unnecessary. It may be better for the head on your shoulders than the head on your block.
 
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