Snapped E.Z Out
- Thread starter C-flo
- Start date
You'll need to use a carbide drill at this point. High speed steel drills will not work.
If there's clearance, (probably only possible if the block is out of the car) borrow/rent a mag drill to minimize the chance of breaking the carbide drill. I've had quite a bit of success using carbide drills in a hand drill but you have to be extremely careful such that bending stress is not induced in the drill.
From personal experience, EZ outs generally only work if the bolt failed from tensile or shear loads. If the head of the bolt sheared off due to torsional loads because of thread corrosion or interference during a removal attempt, an EZ out will almost never work. In those cases I always just go straight to drilling the bolt out and if necessary install a heli-coil. I know, that info doesn't help at this point.
If there's clearance, (probably only possible if the block is out of the car) borrow/rent a mag drill to minimize the chance of breaking the carbide drill. I've had quite a bit of success using carbide drills in a hand drill but you have to be extremely careful such that bending stress is not induced in the drill.
From personal experience, EZ outs generally only work if the bolt failed from tensile or shear loads. If the head of the bolt sheared off due to torsional loads because of thread corrosion or interference during a removal attempt, an EZ out will almost never work. In those cases I always just go straight to drilling the bolt out and if necessary install a heli-coil. I know, that info doesn't help at this point.
I had the same thought to, just weld a bolt onto the block, the run a nut down it to hold a seal on that area of the water pump, but I was wondering if the bead around the bolt from welding would interfere with the sealing surface between the block and the waterpump?
Also, I was thinking about a mag drill to but I was wondering how to set it up since there really isn't a flat even surface around it. I guess I would have to improvise and place a piece of iron or steel infront of the motor to use as a anchor point for the drill. The motor is still in the car, but if I take the bumper, intercooler, and the radiator out then I should have clearance.
If the water pump is still on it, I'd take the rest of the bolts out of it, and get it out of the way. Then maybe you will have enough of the broken bolt to weld a nut onto, or possibly even get a pipe wrench on and turn it that way.
IJ.;1376887 said:
OOOOO fancy schmansy! I'm gonna assume he doesnt have one of these lol. If you can get the pump off then weld a nut on the stud, then turn the nut to take out the stud, Did this to get the rear end cover off both my brothers, and buddies trucks, as they were rusted and completely stripped out. The welder also heats up the bolt which can help get it out. if its flush, you can get one that is just barely bigger than the stud and weld it on the inside of the nut, thats what i did, usually works but not always. Either that or start searching for an EDM, but i have a feeling thats expensive.
"If" there's some of the bolt sticking out he can carefully use a dremel cutoff wheel to trim the bolt away leaving enough of the ezyout to unscrew using vicegrips but most times the bolt shears off at the block, Macro pics would help.
Then he can try a square drive ezyout they're less prone to snapping off.
Then he can try a square drive ezyout they're less prone to snapping off.
Easy-outs are too hard for a carbide drill, which are extremely brittle themselves,
and won't like any irregularities (edges on the easy-out).
EDM, if you have someone near by that can do it.
Try major machine shops, both automotive & industrial.
I don't have anyone close by, so the few times I have broken one off in a bolt,
I went after it with a punch & hammer, and broke little chunks away, one by one.
(and regrinding the punch a half a dozen times)
Suprisingly, the part I was trying to get the bolt out of survived !
and won't like any irregularities (edges on the easy-out).
EDM, if you have someone near by that can do it.
Try major machine shops, both automotive & industrial.
I don't have anyone close by, so the few times I have broken one off in a bolt,
I went after it with a punch & hammer, and broke little chunks away, one by one.
(and regrinding the punch a half a dozen times)
Suprisingly, the part I was trying to get the bolt out of survived !
Honestly this works but only in some circumstances, but seriously if the situation permits try it and you'll be surprised. My grandfather, a farmer and machinist taught me this trick.
If you take common lye, also known as draino, mix up just the slightlest tiniest bit of it, get an eye dropper and drip a couple drips into the hole with the broken easy out in it, or also works for broken off taps, and put a bit of wet with the same fluid bit on kleenex or tissue on it to keep that fluid from drying overnight, by morning or 8ish hours later you'll find that tap or easyout will almost litterally fall out on its own.
Only problem with this trick is that the stituation must allow the liquid to pool in the hole containing the broken tool so most sideways and all upwards facing situations are ruled out.
I know it sounds weird, but seriously it really does work every time, easily too.
If you take common lye, also known as draino, mix up just the slightlest tiniest bit of it, get an eye dropper and drip a couple drips into the hole with the broken easy out in it, or also works for broken off taps, and put a bit of wet with the same fluid bit on kleenex or tissue on it to keep that fluid from drying overnight, by morning or 8ish hours later you'll find that tap or easyout will almost litterally fall out on its own.
Only problem with this trick is that the stituation must allow the liquid to pool in the hole containing the broken tool so most sideways and all upwards facing situations are ruled out.
I know it sounds weird, but seriously it really does work every time, easily too.
I thoroughly appreciate the suggestions. The bolt and e.z out are actually about 1/16th. into the block so they are actually less than flush. I hadn't heard of an EDM up until now. It sounds like it was designed for this application, but I'm guessing that only machine shops have this kind of equipment which may be the answer I wind up having to go with anyway. Someone had also mentioned a dremel. Thank you for your help again, and if you can think of anymore creative ideas, please let me know because I am open to all suggestions.
IJ.;1376892 said:
Funny you should say that, I've snapped a couple....lol. Seemed easier to break than the corkscrew type.
I went through this several years ago with my brake caliper on my truck -- snapped an ez-out off in the bolt. There are two things that will make a dent through that ez-out....carbide-tipped drill bits (not to be confused with cobalt bits) and a tungsten cutting bit for a dremel. When you get the drill bit, get 2 or 3 though...that carbide tipping on them doesn't last long, and after it's gone the bit is just a standard drill bit again.