Small Fixes; High Idle, EBrake

Emeraldage

New Member
Oct 13, 2011
322
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0
Ohio
Thanks for your contribution. I got a feeler and adjusted until it was within spec. I need like 4 hands to get it perfect, got it much closer idle is now down around 1000, and sometimes 700 which might be too low because after a hard pull it stalled out. And it's doing the dropping throttle if I try to hold it as cruise sometimes, not nearly as bad as before though. Just will take more adjusting I suppose. Also I'm not sure what you're being so rude for? I asked how I was adjust it wrong, are those two screws on the tps the way to adjust it? Every guide has said so so far... And running like crap? I never went to school for cars, I put months and months of research and learning to figure out how to swap my car. And having it all done and only a high idle is a great accomplishment to me, not a piece of crap.
 

Grandavi

Active Member
Sep 25, 2008
2,664
6
38
Calgary, Alberta, Canada
Pi (3.14yaddayadaa) has a lot of knowledge and has given me good input in the past. Some of the long time members get a bit abrasive when responding simply because they forget this your first time running into this problem and your doing your best to get it right. It's usually best to ignore the rude portion and look closely at what they are saying. It's usually helpful one you get past that.
 

Emeraldage

New Member
Oct 13, 2011
322
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0
Ohio
Well my running like crap supra just drove me 6 hours to kentucky :D. Lol, the idle is around 700 rpm now, still seemed a bit low but I just had to get going and will actually take the TB off and try it again with a good DMM sooner or later and check codes again sometime. I followed the TSRM and the guide and they both used IDL and the bottom one I can't remember. It calibrated via VTA on the 7mge and showed it using the IDL on the 7MGTE. Should I stick a .7mm feeler in there and calibrate till I get a deflect reading from infinite using VTA and bottom pin instead of IDL?
 

atmperformance

New Member
Sep 17, 2013
757
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San jose
Grandavi;2007767 said:
Pi (3.14yaddayadaa) has a lot of knowledge and has given me good input in the past. Some of the long time members get a bit abrasive when responding simply because they forget this your first time running into this problem and your doing your best to get it right. It's usually best to ignore the rude portion and look closely at what they are saying. It's usually helpful one you get past that.
a bit abrasive? hey fuck you buddy :)
 

Emeraldage

New Member
Oct 13, 2011
322
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0
Ohio
Oh in the TSRM the TPS are just flipped over in the pictures. And I don't understand what you said was wrong about calibrating with e2 and IDL? I just followed that guide with a .7mm and turned it slowly until I had a deflect and turned it back till I had a reading.

Just feels low after being used to 1400rpm I guess. Sometimes it dipped to like 500-600, not sure why it would stall after letting off of boosting but that could be another problem. I'll just check to see if I still have 51 soon, you don't have to reset the ecu, that's a real time code right?
 

Emeraldage

New Member
Oct 13, 2011
322
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0
Ohio
Well just checked codes against hsould reset the ECU and check again. But got 24 31 34 51. The air flow meter ones are new didn't have those before and I know I have fuel cut. Is their a way to narrow down if the 51 has to do with the other two options such as the A/C? I mean there are a couple cut wires on the auto harness i used, one blue/white one that goes to the c1 plug. A/C doesn't engage but I also have 0 pressure in the system so I'm assuming the sensors are reading that and not engaging the clutch.

Update: Just reset the ECU and let it ran for awhile before checking again they're all gone besides 51 still. I'm sure 34 will come back sooner or later. Think the others were just caused awhile ago when I accidently tried to start the car several times forgetting to plug in the afm.