Small Fixes; High Idle, EBrake

[Emeraldage]

Fixed all the bigger problems with my swap. What's left over is mostly just fuelcut, slow start, and a high idle. The cold start will work properly around 1500 rpm. I drive slow out of my housing area, and it's at a good idle right at 1000 rpm. Drive for a little and then it'll always be at 1400 rpm. I'm guessing it has something to do with vacuum, the engine I swapped in didn't have the VSVs on the side of the block, no egr or charcoal. A lot of my vacuum lines didn't plug in so I just plugged them. What vacuum lines are important that have to do with the idle? I didn't see any off of the ISC. I put the EGR and charcoal and one VSV from my NA and just hooked up what I could. According the diagram I have the fuel pressure VSV but it didn't evne plug into my harness. My harness had red plugs not green like the 7mge. I don't have a BSVS. The two lines under the EGR Vac Modulator (I think) are just plugged with screws. On the vac hardline assembly on the intake side of the block the pipe that opens upward is also just plugged. One of the plugs is just welded off because I'm guessing that's where the bypass valve went so that wasn't needed on the 7mge. The person before me hooked the BPV vac line right to the plug on the front side of the surge tank. Let me know what you think, the idle adjustment screw on the throttle body was kind of high but it didn't do anything.

2nd, moving to kentucky want my ebrake working. I was just looking if anyone knows of a guide I can follow to save me the PIA of working on drum brakes and shoes.

 

[Silver MK3]

Fixed all the bigger problems with my swap. What's left over is mostly just fuelcut, slow start, and a high idle. The cold start will work properly around 1500 rpm. I drive slow out of my housing area, and it's at a good idle right at 1000 rpm. Drive for a little and then it'll always be at 1400 rpm. I'm guessing it has something to do with vacuum, the engine I swapped in didn't have the VSVs on the side of the block, no egr or charcoal. A lot of my vacuum lines didn't plug in so I just plugged them. What vacuum lines are important that have to do with the idle? I didn't see any off of the ISC. I put the EGR and charcoal and one VSV from my NA and just hooked up what I could. According the diagram I have the fuel pressure VSV but it didn't evne plug into my harness. My harness had red plugs not green like the 7mge. I don't have a BSVS. The two lines under the EGR Vac Modulator (I think) are just plugged with screws. On the vac hardline assembly on the intake side of the block the pipe that opens upward is also just plugged. One of the plugs is just welded off because I'm guessing that's where the bypass valve went so that wasn't needed on the 7mge. The person before me hooked the BPV vac line right to the plug on the front side of the surge tank. Let me know what you think, the idle adjustment screw on the throttle body was kind of high but it didn't do anything.

2nd, moving to kentucky want my ebrake working. I was just looking if anyone knows of a guide I can follow to save me the PIA of working on drum brakes and shoes.

For the ebrake just use the TSRM, and I'm sure you know, but we have discs in the back with a drum type set up inside the disc for the ebrake sorta. Also, the ebrake shoes are really thin new, so just because they may look worn, they may not be, unless there is no material left on them at all almost.

http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=BR&P=39

 

[Doat]

I adjusted my ebrake at the handle by tightening the 2 nuts I found a deep well socket helped a lot it's a bit of a tight fit but pull the lever to a certain height to get it in there.

 

[hvyman]

^ that is incorrect.

The adjustment is through the hole in the rotor like a normal drum brake system.

 

[Doat]

I read those are 2 ways you can do it people say try at the handle first.

 

[Grandavi]

Depends why the ebrake isn't functioning. Is the cable broke or froze? (I haven't seen this in a mk3 yet)
Or is it just loose? (As in it works but not enough to hold the car)
I think the adjustment on the handle is more for taking out long term cable stretch. If your setup correctly in the rear "drum", it should only be a minor adjustment.
If you don't understand the ebrake system properly, it's a minor repair (normally) for a trained mechanic. Personally, I do my own pads, etc.. But have my "guy" do the brakes if my calipers look sloppy solely because I like having him go over the full system and they like my car, so they usually do a lot of freebies like rebuilding the calipers, etc... To keep it too notch.

I hate the bill, but love my shop... That's rare lately.

 

[MachinaMacabre]

since we're on the subject, my ebrake is very slow to disengage. i drop the handle but the shoes don't quite let go right away. i've gone and lubricated all the parts in the drum to no avail. it only started to do this after i put aftermarket rotors on.

 

[Emeraldage]

Lol I was hoping for more responses about the idle because I'm lost on that versus the brakes I can do myself xD.. Yeah I know it's the shoes inside of the rear drum, it worked fine when I got it 2 years ago, wasn't strong but it worked they're probably just completely worn down. The adjust on t he ebrake handle itself didn't help.


Anyone know anything about the idle vacuum systems? Maybe could the tps have anything to do with it? When I measured it it was SLIGHTLY out of spec but not that bad, also my Digital multimeter was a cheap free one lol.

 

[Doat]

I have read lots of people having idle issues due to the TPS not being calibrated properly or something. You could also check your throttle cable see if it's too tight that is what my problem was when I had high idle a long time.

 

[Emeraldage]

Well I looked up how to diagnose a IAC and one of the options was to leave it on the harness and turn the car on and off. If the valve doesn't move at all it's not working correctly...

I have messed with adjusting the TPS. I didn't calibrate it perfectly but I drove it around and kept adjusting. At one point the idle is 1400rpm.. If I turn it back even one mm it's impossible to drive, if you hold the throttle still the throttle will come and off and on and off. You have to be accelerating can't hold a speed lol. So I don't think the TPS calibration is far enough off to cause this issue.

 

[atmperformance]

find your vacuum leak

 

[Emeraldage]

Tomorrow I'm going to actually test the valve directly with the battery as per the TSRM to see if it operates at all. Vacuum leak? Idle I have about a -25 psi vacuum. I've made a boost leak tester before to find my leak in my IC but now it'll blow my device off of the turbo before it leaks air out lol. Either way I'll test it tomorrow, I doubt it's a leak as my pressure tester thingy would hold some pressure and I couldn't hear any leaks.

 

[supraguy@aol]

You can't adjust your tps by moving it and driving it around. The difference between correct adjustment and incorrect, is maybe a 1/4mm.
It has to be adjusted per the TSRM sequence.

http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=FI&P=101

 

[Emeraldage]

What? I've inspected it using those instructions before yes. That guide says for inspection it doesn't tell how to adjust it. I would assuming to adjust it you would loosen the screw and turn the tps slightly for a new reading like I did correct? And like you said, maybe a few degrees in turning it made it run horrible, and another degree in the other direction made it work fine. If I adjusted any further forward the ecu would think the throttle is opened more when it's really not, any less it just drops throttle constantly. I'll adjust it further forward as a fun trial and error to see if it actually makes any sort of different, then I'll try to adjust it as correctly as I can on top of testing my IAC.

 

[super51fan]

Your way of adjusting TPS is "different" I would follow the repair manual.

If you really have 25 IN HG of vacuum at idle your ignition timing is to far advanced. This will cause strange issues as well.

Have you looked at the EFI section of repair manual. It is very helpful.

Check engine light on or stored codes?

BTW you should clean the throttle body before trying to adjust your TPS

 

[Emeraldage]

Well how else would you adjust the TPS? I know you check the resistance of the terminals based on the TSRM to make sure it's at nominal values. How else would you adjust it besides turning it slightly by loosening the screws that allow it to be adjusted? The advanced timing is caused by the ECU correct I can't really control that? The vacuum is probably more like 20-23 cause my sunpro gauge is cheap and the zero is like -2psi.

Engine codes were abnormal boost pressure and code 51 I think.

I guess I forgot to mention I did this swap less than a month ago or so everything was cleaned well and the head was redone. What do you insist I look at in the EFI section? It is like 150 pages long lol.

 

[jetjock]

find your vacuum leak

Pirate air does not cause increased idle on L Type EFI systems.

 

[3p141592654]

Adjust TPS by looking for code 51 with correct feeler gauge in the throttle stop. What's so hard about doing it right?

 

[Emeraldage]

How am I doing it wrong? Putting in a thickness gauge on the throttle stop and adjusting TPS until you have nominal resistance values according to the TSRM right? I've been told loosening the screw to adjust the TPS is wrong. How else could you adjust it?

Also just did the TSRM test on the IAC and the piston did not move at all, heard some little noises though.

Found a neat guide http://www.mk3supra.org/topic/55-guide-calibrating-tps-throttle-position-sensor/. I'll try doing this as well.

 

[3p141592654]

No, because you set to the IDL signal, not VTA. But whatever, its you car running like crap, not mine. LOL at your post #16 on code 51. Gee, do you think that might be related!