should i use protection on my water hose? =P

[NexiusEvaro]

I mentioned this in another thread and I have done a company and internet search with little to show for it ...

I picked up a can of sherwin-williams Zinc-Clad cold galvanizing compound spray and was planning on coating the now mostly-rust-free somewhat pitted ends of me block heater and pump hardlines and maybe some of the conects on the intake mani for some corrosion prevention. It is a primer and I planned on putting a top could of high temp paint over the rest of the pipes as well. The only thing I could find online that was risky was the formation of white rust. I am just planning on putting 3-5 light layers on the ends only for protection and don't think it will add up to enough to damage anything... but thought I would run it by you all and get some input before i do anything...

The ends have been cleaned with a dremel (small steel brush attachment) and I am wondering if I should just leave them alone or coat them with something that will stave off the rust via self-sacrificing and/or potentially harm my engine...

thx input!

nex

edit - batteries dead in the digi - will post a pic or two of the cleaned up ends tomm..

 

[NexiusEvaro]

here are a few pics of the ends I am worried about... replacement pipes are spendy from the local dealership and the local hydraulics shop was too scared to try to bend me new ones... so i am trying to save these...

good idea/bad idea?

sry bout the pic quality - macro isnt the greatest on this cheap camera...

thx nex

 

[rumptis]

either way will be fine, those look pretty normal from what I have seen. If you feel like painting them that should be fine and if you don't they should be fine.

 

[NexiusEvaro]

appreciate the response

I will prolly prime the ends inside and out with the zinc-clad just to see if it makes much difference after some miles go by - if its not gonna hurt anything internally....

thx
nex

 

[masterchief819]

should i use protection on my water hose?

Yes...always use protection.

 

[NexiusEvaro]

Yes...always use protection.

/agree

nex

 

[Syris]

Yes...always use protection.

 

[Adjuster]

Mine are coated inside and out with thermal barrier coatings from Techline.com.

It's a wet spray coating you then bake in your oven for one hour at about 300 degrees F.

Turned out nice, keeps heat out of my coolant since this runs under the exhaust manifold, and stops corrosion.

BTW, I just bypassed both the TB and ISC coolant lines by running a short hose from the coolant wrap around pipe to the nipple on the lower intake manifold. (Stock it goes to the TB, then ISC, then back to the nipple at the intake.)

No affect on cold start, and I have to think it keeps the intake manifold cooler not to have hot coolant passing through the throttle body and ISC all the time.

 

[supra90turbo]

:yum: I love your engine, adjuster

 

[NexiusEvaro]

:yum: I love your engine, adjuster

Oh God Yes!

Adjuster - thanks for the suggestions (and providing us mortals something to aspire to)

nex

 

[suprageezer]

When I rebuild engine, to seal surfaces that have pits or you just want to prevent pitting of gasket surfaces. I use Devcon F putty to bring the surface to a smooth surface again first, It's an aircraft grade Epoxy Putty that’s 80% Aluminum powder. I've sealed holes from rocks on my desert bike with it so I know it's strong and thermally acceptable. Then once I get the surface back to normal I use Red Epoxy Insulating Enamel as a surface coating. This stuff is impervious to chemicals and dries like hard baked enamel. Once it’s dried I use the stock gaskets and I've never had leak after that. The positive is the next time you have to remove the gasket the surface will still be perfect, which makes for an easy reseal. This is also the same stuff many racers use to coat the inside of their blocks to help oil drain back to the pan faster.
Rick


http://www.kpg-industrial.com/sprayon/insulating_varnishes_and_sealers/

 

[NexiusEvaro]

interesting approach to deal with the pitting....

thanks for the info and link

nex

 

[NashMan]

i vote for brazing the tips then nice fine file and some elbow gresh usely i whould nto care cause thou pipe look liek they will last anther 10 plsu year befor they become an issue

 

[NexiusEvaro]

i vote for brazing the tips then nice fine file and some elbow gresh usely i whould nto care cause thou pipe look liek they will last anther 10 plsu year befor they become an issue

they looked like hell before I cleaned em up - glad to hear someone thinks theres life left in them yet...

I primered the ends and painted them up last night - I will post a pic of the final product tommorow - appreciate the input, pastin yer guys' solutions down for future ref...

nex

 

[NashMan]

if you spray bomed them they will be fine i sean much worse last for ever plus no one will see it but int he end you will knwo it is there and if that shit bugs you then replace it but that is kidna comon to find on car wiht poor owers aka past onwer not replaceing there coolent

cause it just turns to acid

 

[NexiusEvaro]

BTW, I just bypassed both the TB and ISC coolant lines by running a short hose from the coolant wrap around pipe to the nipple on the lower intake manifold. (Stock it goes to the TB, then ISC, then back to the nipple at the intake.)

No affect on cold start, and I have to think it keeps the intake manifold cooler not to have hot coolant passing through the throttle body and ISC all the time.

I have the manifold set up to spray those connects, but I haven't yet cause I was gonna bypass as you mentioned above. But....

I can see why cold start would be unaffected as the engines gotta be running to generate heat for the coolant to carry elsewhere to warm things up, but does having coolant running thru the TB and ISC do anything else? Don't know why this has been buggin me... Maybe for colder climates it helps during the winter for optimal operation in the cold...I haven't gotten to the intake system yet in terms my learning progress thru the engine yet so I don't know anything much about it...seems like there would be a reason for those coolant route lines.

Maybe the ISC reads coolant temp at the sensor there? - the tsrm is kinda vague (FI-6), cygnus is offline, & I'm at work so i can't run the refs down atm.

Guessin this has been done to death :3d_frown: but am curious if there is any good reason not to bypass the tb and isc coolant lines. Below is clipped from a post in mkIII tech which references elsewhere to this on coolant issues ->

http://www.jcna.com/library/tech/tech0011.html

snippet from the cooling faq got me thinking on this:

The latent heat effect is used in two ways in your cooling system. First, cylinder heads heat very unevenly. There are some very hot spots in the vicinity of the exhaust valves, for example. Coolant coming in contact with these areas will instantly boil, drawing a great deal of heat from the component. This local boiling is called "nucleate boiling". The other way that latent heat is used is more subtle. After cooling the head and block, the coolant passes through the intake manifold water jacket. This causes droplets of gasoline to vaporize, drawing heat from the coolant. (Vaporizing gasoline in this way actually improves the drivability of the motor, but that's another FAQ).


I realize that this is a different situation with a FI system - but really that's about all I understand as far as the GTE intake & FI system go tho so...

Not in the face! Not in the face!

regards

nex