how do I do it? and where do I get the extra clutches? also, where do I get brand new clutchpacks?
shimming the lsd...
- Thread starter Mr.SelfDestruct
- Start date
toyota doesnt sell just the clutch's for the lsd. youd have to buy the whole diff. btdt. was gonna rebuild a stock lsd for an mkii. id check with some 4x4 shops since alot of toyota 4x4 guys put supra lsd's in there trucks, they may have aftermarket support for the pars needed to rebuild them. i used a truetrac lsd for the front of a toy 4x4 with fs in my 7.5in mkii diff. works great. i think dr. j was working on a similar setup on the mkiii diff. check mkiiitech.com
The parts are listed individually in the EPC and the procedure is in the TSRM. Just make it a little tighter than the Toyota spec...
we have a clutch type lsd? cool. i am unfamiliar with the concept of shimming the lsd. what, you make it harder for the diff to disengage the two sides of the axel? how much does this affect your parking lot manuverabilaty and other low speed turning?
Adjuster
Supramania Contributor
This is totally ghetto, but adding molydisulfied to the oil in your diff will cause the clutches to grab better. (Sounds wrong, but I think the moly particles build up between the plates, so the clearances change, and the clutches then engage better.)
Ran the moly additive in my MK2 for years to help with, and mostly cure the rear end whine/howl that had developed, and it also made the LSD work again... Burnouts with both tires spinning, not easy to do on the NA160hp 5M engine, but possible. When I added the same stuff to my MK3 LSD, it made it so tight it would chatter, pop and make horrible noises at any low speed when turning. (Too tight short of a race car.) I had to wash it out with two cans of brake cleaner, and it still was pretty tight. (Is tight I should say.)
Hit up a parts store, something more Mom and Pop vs Pepboys, and it's generally near the Lucas stuff. (Ask for moly additive for gear oil.)
Besides, the moly is a great high pressure lubricant, so you get the best of both worlds, less gear noise, better lubrication, and a tight diff. (Clutch type I suppose it the only one that would be affected, if it's a Torsen, no change should happen.)
Ran the moly additive in my MK2 for years to help with, and mostly cure the rear end whine/howl that had developed, and it also made the LSD work again... Burnouts with both tires spinning, not easy to do on the NA160hp 5M engine, but possible. When I added the same stuff to my MK3 LSD, it made it so tight it would chatter, pop and make horrible noises at any low speed when turning. (Too tight short of a race car.) I had to wash it out with two cans of brake cleaner, and it still was pretty tight. (Is tight I should say.)
Hit up a parts store, something more Mom and Pop vs Pepboys, and it's generally near the Lucas stuff. (Ask for moly additive for gear oil.)
Besides, the moly is a great high pressure lubricant, so you get the best of both worlds, less gear noise, better lubrication, and a tight diff. (Clutch type I suppose it the only one that would be affected, if it's a Torsen, no change should happen.)
should I just throw it in when I change the fluid? my cars gonna be at my work soon, and I'll probably do a full tune/service on it while its there.
well, the whine in the diff is a worn pinion bearing, though the molly stuff being that thick prolly helped that as well. i didnt know toyota actually had the parts listed separate in the epc. when i checked on the rear for the mkii the parts guy told me whole diffs only, and he usually would spend an hr looking for parts for me ifi needed them. he didnt seem the type to bs me. though he was a bit shocked to see the 7mgte in my 84 so that may be why he would spend the time to look, knew i was a serious toyota guy. anyway, shimming the diff is basiclly shimming the springs to make them tighter. you could replace them with stronger springs if you could find the specs for the stockers and a company that made them the same diameter, length etc.. but higher pressure.
Again:
The first thing to try is different oil. You can get oil without the slip additive from Redline (75W90NS). Using only NS oil will probably make it lock too hard, but you can easily adjust the amount of slip. Fill the diff with NS, then add slip fluid (also from Redline or any auto parts store) slowly until you reach the level of slip you want. Your standard gear oil has the slip additive already in it, and, in my opinion, they add too much.
If your diff slips without any slip additive, you probably do need to rebuild it. It's a lot easier to change the fluid than rebuild a diff, so try that first.
Asterix
The first thing to try is different oil. You can get oil without the slip additive from Redline (75W90NS). Using only NS oil will probably make it lock too hard, but you can easily adjust the amount of slip. Fill the diff with NS, then add slip fluid (also from Redline or any auto parts store) slowly until you reach the level of slip you want. Your standard gear oil has the slip additive already in it, and, in my opinion, they add too much.
If your diff slips without any slip additive, you probably do need to rebuild it. It's a lot easier to change the fluid than rebuild a diff, so try that first.
Asterix