Shimming the bypass spring on the oil pump

supraguy@aol

Well-Known Member
Dec 30, 2005
4,238
42
48
Atlanta
The shimming wont help idle pressure, only high rpm pressure.
So, i don't see the point of overdoing that. As long as i get at least 35-40 warm psi at ~3500rpm(highway), i'd be very pleased.
I was more concerned with low rpm pressure.
 

suprarx7nut

YotaMD.com author
Nov 10, 2006
3,811
1
38
Arizona
www.supramania.com
supraguy@aol;1994031 said:
The shimming wont help idle pressure, only high rpm pressure.
So, i don't see the point of overdoing that. As long as i get at least 35-40 warm psi at ~3500rpm(highway), i'd be very pleased.

I was more concerned with low rpm pressure.

Exactly. People get very mislead with oil pressure. More pressure is generally a sign of BAD things. The more pressure indicated on your gauge, the more RESISTANCE you have to oil flow. You don't want more pressure, you want more oil flow. That means LESS pressure. Using a heavy oil to get more oil pressure is like an anorexic wearing a thicker sweater. You're kidding yourself if you think it's beneficial.

If you have high idle pressure, I don't see how on Earth that could be related to the relief valve in the pump being shimmed. The shim is to allow the system to build more pressure before bleeding off some oil. If you're idling with enough pressure to open the relief valve you have serious problems or are using the wrong type of oil.

Heavy oil can be fine for a track car that spends most its time near redline with the oil getting significantly hotter than a street car. For a daily driver, heavy oil is only good to mask a worn out engine.

It'd be interesting to see a pressure chart showing pressure at the end of the oil channels with different set-ups, oils and shimmed pumps. I bet the results would be drastically different than many would guess.
 

sheedy126

Boost Addict
Apr 30, 2012
716
1
0
kennewick
Hmm, for some reason I thought it would increase my idle oil pressure as well

Guess I was wrong there. Just trying to get the correct pressure for my Hx35 turbo. It likes at least 10 psi at idle and I'm getting 4 at warm idle.

The low idle pressure could also be from one of my oil squirters that was pretty much stuck open I just replaced

Sent from my PC36100 using Tapatalk 2
 

IJ.

Grumpy Old Man
Mar 30, 2005
38,728
0
0
62
I come from a land down under
10 psi per 1000 rpm at redline, I built my 7M's on the loose side of spec after seeing funky wear patterns on the Mains from Block flex when built tight.

I then chose an Oil weight that would give me my 10 per, in my case this was 80psi +10 for a safety zone, 10/60 Edge did just that and 45psi Hot Idle pressure, another must for my engine as the Pauter Rods didn't have the Cylinder sprayers so I needed the GTE Squirters to be open at idle.

I've often seen people speak of too much pressure destroying bearings, in my 39 years of building engines of all types I've never seen this, it's usually some other cause that's been blamed on too much pressure, I run the thick case Moroso Filters on my cars as they often see in excess of 100 Psi if the Oil isn't fully warmed.

Anymore than 5mm of Shim and you risk coilbinding the Spring and having uncontrolled Pressure at High Rpm and blowing the O ring out of the Filter or Splitting the case.
 

Chris_87_Turbo

New Member
Nov 5, 2013
261
0
0
Princeton, TX
I was wrong as well, I was looking to increase pressure a little at idle. The last motor that was in car at cruise only went to the first tick mark on the oil pressure gauge and at idle would hover about halfway between that line and the 0 mark or just about the 0 mark which made me a little nervous. But then again when that motor let go and spun bearing I took it apart and it appears to not been reassembled correctly (it looks like clearances were not checked or followed when it was assembled. I have blown many a motor racing in my time and everyone of them looked better than this one). It also appeared that the front 3 cylinders were being oil starved (here is why I thought I might need more oil pressure on this motor).

Chris
 

IJ.

Grumpy Old Man
Mar 30, 2005
38,728
0
0
62
I come from a land down under
Idle pressure is dependant on Oil Pump clearances, Bearing clearances and Oil weight, GTE's have so many "leaks" the Stock pump has trouble keeping up at idle hence the BS Myth that a 7M is a Low pressure high volume design, they increased pump size/capacity from the GE to cope but not enough for a worn engine or one built with loose clearances.

People are saying in this thread that "Pressure" is bad as it's a measure of resistance to flow, again I call bullshit in this situation I'd rather have a good wedge of thick Oil at high pressure than a wedge of thin oil at lower pressure that's easily displaced from between the Crank and Bearing...

The Bearing should NEVER come in contact with the Crank under power ever...
 

JDMMA70

Active Member
Dec 4, 2006
2,550
0
36
Houston
Hmmm but IJ isnt the oil weight one should use directly related to the oil clearances the engine was built with. So with that in mind wouldnt, a tighter engine be better off running say a 30w or 40w vs a 60w and the opposite for a motor built on the loose side of tolerance?

My engine was built AFAIK on the tight side, with my full flow cooler, tstat, -10an lines, I see 80psi at WOT running 5W-30 oil. Cant remember if the Eagle Rods did or didnt have the cylinder wall sprayer hole thingies. I think they did trying to remember from memory.
 

IJ.

Grumpy Old Man
Mar 30, 2005
38,728
0
0
62
I come from a land down under
JDMMA70;1994185 said:
Hmmm but IJ isnt the oil weight one should use directly related to the oil clearances the engine was built with. So with that in mind wouldnt, a tighter engine be better off running say a 30w or 40w vs a 60w and the opposite for a motor built on the loose side of tolerance?

My engine was built AFAIK on the tight side, with my full flow cooler, tstat, -10an lines, I see 80psi at WOT running 5W-30 oil. Cant remember if the Eagle Rods did or didnt have the cylinder wall sprayer hole thingies. I think they did trying to remember from memory.

IJ.;1994062 said:
10 psi per 1000 rpm at redline, I built my 7M's on the loose side of spec after seeing funky wear patterns on the Mains from Block flex when built tight.

I then chose an Oil weight that would give me my 10 per, in my case this was 80psi +10 for a safety zone, 10/60 Edge did just that and 45psi Hot Idle pressure, another must for my engine as the Pauter Rods didn't have the Cylinder sprayers so I needed the GTE Squirters to be open at idle.

I've often seen people speak of too much pressure destroying bearings, in my 39 years of building engines of all types I've never seen this, it's usually some other cause that's been blamed on too much pressure, I run the thick case Moroso Filters on my cars as they often see in excess of 100 Psi if the Oil isn't fully warmed.

Anymore than 5mm of Shim and you risk coilbinding the Spring and having uncontrolled Pressure at High Rpm and blowing the O ring out of the Filter or Splitting the case.

;)
 

suprarx7nut

YotaMD.com author
Nov 10, 2006
3,811
1
38
Arizona
www.supramania.com
IJ.;1994174 said:
Idle pressure is dependant on Oil Pump clearances, Bearing clearances and Oil weight, GTE's have so many "leaks" the Stock pump has trouble keeping up at idle hence the BS Myth that a 7M is a Low pressure high volume design, they increased pump size/capacity from the GE to cope but not enough for a worn engine or one built with loose clearances.

People are saying in this thread that "Pressure" is bad as it's a measure of resistance to flow, again I call bullshit in this situation I'd rather have a good wedge of thick Oil at high pressure than a wedge of thin oil at lower pressure that's easily displaced from between the Crank and Bearing...

The Bearing should NEVER come in contact with the Crank under power ever...

First off, I hope this spurs good debate. If there's objective, non-anecdotal evidence to prove me wrong I'll gladly eat crow here and edit my post to point out I'm wearing the dunce cap. I want to know the right answer more than I want to win an argument. :)

Ian, the important concept with oil pressure (at least from my perspective) is that pressure indicated on the oil pressure gauge (plumbed after the filter, but before any engine lubrication area) is not directly related to pressures elsewhere in the system.

Yes, having more pressure throughout the entire system is a good thing. We can all agree on that. At least until the pressure starts blowing out seals and such. However, unless you have a very uniquely plumbed oil pressure gauge you're only measure is the pressure BEFORE any lubrication happens. This means that more pressure is only indicating an INCREASE in resistance to oil flow to the engine parts that need that oil. This increase in resistance to flow might present an increase in oil film thickness under load on the bearings nearest the source of oil flow, but I submit that it can create a greater reduction in oil flow to the surfaces furthest from the oil source to such an amount that there is no net benefit.

The lubrication system is a gradient of pressures. The pressure is greatest at the pump outlet and zero and the completion of the oil flow circuit. The goal of lubrication is to provide the most pressure at the END of the circuit. Unfortunately, since the circuit diverges into dozens of paths (each main, rod bearing, cams) we can't easily throw a gauge on the system to measure the pressure on the last component. We really only care about the crank mains and rods here (unless someone's had a cam fail from lack of lubrication), but even then, we can't accurately measure the pressure of the bearings at the end of the oil parade. Correct me if I'm wrong, but that's where the pressure matters, right?

If your oil reaches the pressure gauge sending unit at 80 psi, but falls to 20 psi by the time it turns x corners, goes through the bearing port and finally hits the bearing surface that 20 psi is the important fact. If a thinner oil is 40 at the gauge, but 25 at the final main bearing surface that's a better situation and a better oil for the application. I completely pulled those numbers out of my ass, so they may start at 80 and be 75 at the bearing surface, finally spraying powerfully into the case walls of the block, I dont know.

For engines purpose built with larger than factory clearances or for track-only engines that will spend a ton of time near redline heated above normal oil temps a heavy oil is great. For anyone that drives their car to and from work a heavy oil is certainly good for masking a worn engine, but I don't buy that it provides a better lubrication environment on a good, factory spec'd engine.

I'm open to evidence to the contrary, but I believe manufacturers determine the best mix of viscosity to yield the correct pressures *throughout* the oil system; low enough to reduce the gradient in pressures as it reaches the furthest locations and high enough to provide the correct film thickness on the bearing surface. Toyota spec'd a 30W oil for factory bearing clearances on a 7M and I don't have any research to say they're wrong. I tried to search for a related research article, but all I found was an MIT paper on oil aeration. As power levels go up, that oil film thickness would need to rise and/or become more resistant being pushed aside. Thicker oil might not achieve either of those is it has a larger gradient than lighter oil.

If anyone's got some evidence showing pressures throughout the oil system (not even our engines, just any ICE) I'd love to see it.
 

nathaninwa

New Member
Jul 1, 2012
377
0
0
Aberdeen, WA
Ill poke my nose in here. Ive read alot on BITOG alot. The consesus is the perfect oil is one with a viscocity of 10 at operating temp, and the mutligrade oils help this out. Most oils are graded at 40C and 100C. My LS30 (5W/30) is like 58 viscity at 40c and 9.8 at 100C. My oil temps are in the 200ish range most of the time, so its pretty darn close, but my cold temps are near 40* right now, colder than the 75* there tested at, so my 58 is much higher.

A 20W/50 oil I read one time has a viscocity of like 250 cold and 70 hot, its more designed for an engine running 250* and hotter.

And as you pointed out, pressure doesnt equal flow. You can read 80psi on a cold start, but if the oil is so thick it cant move through the bearing, the pump will just bypass, showing you have 80psi of pressure but no flow.

In a previous post, someone picked a 10/60 oil give him the 80psi he wanted at redline. If I was evaluating that oil, Id look at the viscocity number at the oil temp i ran it at, aimed for the 10 that is established, and shimmed the pumped according after that.

Joe Gibbs has a good video on this, let me see if I can find it.


Here one is.
http://youtu.be/q8T0gjR6Cao

And the BITOG link
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/motor-oil-101/
 

IJ.

Grumpy Old Man
Mar 30, 2005
38,728
0
0
62
I come from a land down under
10/60 and the 10/70 I'm now using isn't heavy at low temps, I don't understand the reasoning behind the "it's only providing pressure and not flow"... :nono:

If this were the case it would come with huge warnings NOT to use it in anything other than modified engines... (bit of a clue it's factory spec for some BMW engines)

It's Engine Oil not Single 140 gear oil...
 

nathaninwa

New Member
Jul 1, 2012
377
0
0
Aberdeen, WA
It might be engine oil, but already said in the thread, theres members putting 20w/50 just to see more oil pressure, but the very thing there trying to fix, is actually causing more problems. Information is key and reading is the best thing we can do. Oils have come along ways. I switched machine shops this last time around, and one of his questions when talking about oil clearances, what oil are you going to run.

If the pump didnt have a bypass, then yes, constant flow, but with a bypass installed, flow is never really known.
 

suprarx7nut

YotaMD.com author
Nov 10, 2006
3,811
1
38
Arizona
www.supramania.com
IJ.;1994245 said:
10/60 and the 10/70 I'm now using isn't heavy at low temps, I don't understand the reasoning behind the "it's only providing pressure and not flow"... :nono:

Ian, in the case of a 7M, where is the extra flow coming from? Simply showing more pressure does not equate to more flow.

Don't misunderstand me, an increase in pressure can mean an increase in flow if you have a variable flow pump. However, a car engine like the 7M (and other belt-driven oil pump ICE engines I know) the oil pump doesn't flow any more oil, no matter what grade oil you put in. The amount of flow through the pump is a relatively fixed constant for a given RPM. The pump turns x RPM for x RPM of the engine and puts out x volume flow. No oil changes that. What changes the oil getting to your bearings is the flow that's redirected through the relief valves both in the pump and the filter bracket. The reality is that in factory configuration the 7M LOSES oil flow as pressures increases. The pump will output X amount of flow and redirect Y and Z flow away from the bearings as soon as the reliefs open up.

If you shim the oil pump AND remove the factory filter bracket relief, under some circumstances, sure you may get more flow (high RPM, oil flowing through the engine easier than through the relief).

Let's try an equation(variables only, not concerned with constants for simplicity's sake):

Vf= Volume flow at pump gears (Proportionate to RPM since the pump is direct driven assuming the pump is a closed system)
Vb= Volume flow at bearings
Vpr = Volume flow at pump relief
Vcr = Volume cooler (filter bracket) relief
Pg= Gauge Pressure (beginning on oil circuit)
Pfb= Pressure at the final bearing (we can't measure this)
Ov= Oil viscosity
Bc= Bearing clearances
Pl = Pressure loss/gradient from the main oil channel to the bearing surfaces

We start with Vf. Vf cannot be increased by any means I've ever seen no a 7M. You'd have to re-gear the oil pump to have a different gear ratio. In this scenario Vf is a fixed constant at a given RPM.

This is roughly what you have:

Vf = Vb + Vpr + Vcr

Rewritten:

Vb = Vf - Vpr - Vcr

Vb is what we care about. That's the game. Maximum flow (with sufficient pressure) to the bearings.

To increase Vb, you need to decrease Vpr or Vcr or both. You can eliminate Vcr by installing a full flow oil cooler. Vpr you can decrease by shimming the pump.

So what about Pressure?

Pg = Vb*Ov/(Bc + Pl)

Bc is changed by your bearing clearances and Pl is an unknown. I think Pl is significant. If Ov goes up we have more pressure, but we do not have more volume flow to the bearings. Remember, the pump flow does not depend on the oil viscosity at all.

Pfb = Pg - Pl*Ov

Pfb matters, Pg doesn't. Pg is what you see on the dash. Pfb is what keeps the motor bearings alive. For Pl to be zero the oil passages would need to be the same net diameter, length and straightness (curves introduce restriction). Looking at the 7M oil passages I dont know how you could argue they are equal. A couple poor bearings will be at the end of the oil passage and see pressure losses that are directly linked to the viscosity of the oil used.

You can use a pressure drop calculator to estimate the drop across a given length of straight pipe, but the net result is that the pressure drop increases as oil viscosity increases with a 1:1 ratio compared to the increase in pressure seen by raising the oil viscosity. This is to say the bearings are going to see roughly the same pressure with different viscosity oils. Despite your gauge pressure, I think the bearings see roughly the same pressure. That increase in pressure seen on the gauge is GONE due to increased pressure losses by the time the oil gets where you want it.

Another function of the oil is to pull away any contaminants from your engine and to pull heat away. An oil does this best by flowing easily and quickly. Again, the only way to change the VOLUME moving through the motor is by shimming the pump and eliminating the oil filter bracket relief AND by revving past the point where the pump relief used to kick in. Without both of those modifications, the pump flow is relatively fixed. I submit a heavier oil does this job of heat transfer and contamination wash worse than a lighter oil because you will be REDUCING oil flow, even if your pressure reads higher.

Again, in factory configuration, the more oil pressure indicated on your gauge the LESS volume of oil you have going through your engine bearings. Best case scenario, you only lose a little volume in flow to the relief valves and the extra viscosity protects the bearings enough to avoid damage and you don't notice a difference. Worst case, you lose volume flow through the relief valves and the pressure at the bearings is now too weak to perform it's job or to properly pull heat and contaminants out of the engine.



IJ said:
If this were the case it would come with huge warnings NOT to use it in anything other than modified engines... (bit of a clue it's factory spec for some BMW engines)

It's Engine Oil not Single 140 gear oil...

Any factory engine could be designed to run heavier 100C viscosity. The manufacturer would recommend whatever fits their clearances best. I understand heavy oil is factory spec in some engines. The 7M is not. Yours was built for more clearance. Many here still use heavy oil on a stock motor which is spec'd for 30W oil.

nathaninwa;1994249 said:
It might be engine oil, but already said in the thread, theres members putting 20w/50 just to see more oil pressure, but the very thing there trying to fix, is actually causing more problems. Information is key and reading is the best thing we can do. Oils have come along ways. I switched machine shops this last time around, and one of his questions when talking about oil clearances, what oil are you going to run.

If the pump didnt have a bypass, then yes, constant flow, but with a bypass installed, flow is never really known.

Yes and yes (except it's not just one bypass, it's two!).
 

IJ.

Grumpy Old Man
Mar 30, 2005
38,728
0
0
62
I come from a land down under
While it may be anecdotal I think I'll stick with what know and have proven to work, by all mean run whatever you prefer.

I've yet to have or even see an engine bottom end failure that can be directly attributed to too high a pressure or too heavy an oil weight used.
 

Chris_87_Turbo

New Member
Nov 5, 2013
261
0
0
Princeton, TX
suprarx7nut;1994292 said:
Ian, in the case of a 7M, where is the extra flow coming from? Simply showing more pressure does not equate to more flow.

Don't misunderstand me, an increase in pressure can mean an increase in flow if you have a variable flow pump. However, a car engine like the 7M (and other belt-driven oil pump ICE engines I know) the oil pump doesn't flow any more oil, no matter what grade oil you put in. The amount of flow through the pump is a relatively fixed constant for a given RPM. The pump turns x RPM for x RPM of the engine and puts out x volume flow. No oil changes that. What changes the oil getting to your bearings is the flow that's redirected through the relief valves both in the pump and the filter bracket. The reality is that in factory configuration the 7M LOSES oil flow as pressures increases. The pump will output X amount of flow and redirect Y and Z flow away from the bearings as soon as the reliefs open up.

If you shim the oil pump AND remove the factory filter bracket relief, under some circumstances, sure you may get more flow (high RPM, oil flowing through the engine easier than through the relief).

Let's try an equation(variables only, not concerned with constants for simplicity's sake):

Vf= Volume flow at pump gears (Proportionate to RPM since the pump is direct driven assuming the pump is a closed system)
Vb= Volume flow at bearings
Vpr = Volume flow at pump relief
Vcr = Volume cooler (filter bracket) relief
Pg= Gauge Pressure (beginning on oil circuit)
Pfb= Pressure at the final bearing (we can't measure this)
Ov= Oil viscosity
Bc= Bearing clearances
Pl = Pressure loss/gradient from the main oil channel to the bearing surfaces

We start with Vf. Vf cannot be increased by any means I've ever seen no a 7M. You'd have to re-gear the oil pump to have a different gear ratio. In this scenario Vf is a fixed constant at a given RPM.

This is roughly what you have:

Vf = Vb + Vpr + Vcr

Rewritten:

Vb = Vf - Vpr - Vcr

Vb is what we care about. That's the game. Maximum flow (with sufficient pressure) to the bearings.

To increase Vb, you need to decrease Vpr or Vcr or both. You can eliminate Vcr by installing a full flow oil cooler. Vpr you can decrease by shimming the pump.

So what about Pressure?

Pg = Vb*Ov/(Bc + Pl)

Bc is changed by your bearing clearances and Pl is an unknown. I think Pl is significant. If Ov goes up we have more pressure, but we do not have more volume flow to the bearings. Remember, the pump flow does not depend on the oil viscosity at all.

Pfb = Pg - Pl*Ov

Pfb matters, Pg doesn't. Pg is what you see on the dash. Pfb is what keeps the motor bearings alive. For Pl to be zero the oil passages would need to be the same net diameter, length and straightness (curves introduce restriction). Looking at the 7M oil passages I dont know how you could argue they are equal. A couple poor bearings will be at the end of the oil passage and see pressure losses that are directly linked to the viscosity of the oil used.

You can use a pressure drop calculator to estimate the drop across a given length of straight pipe, but the net result is that the pressure drop increases as oil viscosity increases with a 1:1 ratio compared to the increase in pressure seen by raising the oil viscosity. This is to say the bearings are going to see roughly the same pressure with different viscosity oils. Despite your gauge pressure, I think the bearings see roughly the same pressure. That increase in pressure seen on the gauge is GONE due to increased pressure losses by the time the oil gets where you want it.

Another function of the oil is to pull away any contaminants from your engine and to pull heat away. An oil does this best by flowing easily and quickly. Again, the only way to change the VOLUME moving through the motor is by shimming the pump and eliminating the oil filter bracket relief AND by revving past the point where the pump relief used to kick in. Without both of those modifications, the pump flow is relatively fixed. I submit a heavier oil does this job of heat transfer and contamination wash worse than a lighter oil because you will be REDUCING oil flow, even if your pressure reads higher.

Again, in factory configuration, the more oil pressure indicated on your gauge the LESS volume of oil you have going through your engine bearings. Best case scenario, you only lose a little volume in flow to the relief valves and the extra viscosity protects the bearings enough to avoid damage and you don't notice a difference. Worst case, you lose volume flow through the relief valves and the pressure at the bearings is now too weak to perform it's job or to properly pull heat and contaminants out of the engine.





Any factory engine could be designed to run heavier 100C viscosity. The manufacturer would recommend whatever fits their clearances best. I understand heavy oil is factory spec in some engines. The 7M is not. Yours was built for more clearance. Many here still use heavy oil on a stock motor which is spec'd for 30W oil.



Yes and yes (except it's not just one bypass, it's two!).

You lost me after "let's try an expression" been to long since I did that kind of math.

Chris
 

Poodles

I play with fire
Jul 22, 2006
16,757
0
0
43
Fort Worth, TX
I'll drop in to add a bit to this game.

- Guys really need to look at how a hydrostatic bearing functions.

- The oil pump is a gear pump... Viscosity does come into play here...

- Not going to blow any seals on a 7M with high pressures.

- IJ has more experience than you :rofl:



Funny, just was having the opposite conversation about this. BRZ runs 0w-20 and people are boosting them and thinking they need to run crazy thick oils to compensate... The reality is the only reason you have to run a heavier weight oil is because of the extra heat boosting causes so the oil gets too hot and thins out. Oil cooler solves that issue...
 

suprarx7nut

YotaMD.com author
Nov 10, 2006
3,811
1
38
Arizona
www.supramania.com
Poodles;1995038 said:
I'll drop in to add a bit to this game.

- Guys really need to look at how a hydrostatic bearing functions.

- The oil pump is a gear pump... Viscosity does come into play here...

- Not going to blow any seals on a 7M with high pressures.

- IJ has more experience than you :rofl:



Funny, just was having the opposite conversation about this. BRZ runs 0w-20 and people are boosting them and thinking they need to run crazy thick oils to compensate... The reality is the only reason you have to run a heavier weight oil is because of the extra heat boosting causes so the oil gets too hot and thins out. Oil cooler solves that issue...

Haha, no doubt Ian has me (and virtually anyone else here) beat on experience. However, I've never been one to lay back and let "because I said so" be the backbone of my learning. If he's right, then awesome, show me some proof. Surely manufacturers spec lighter oils for a reason. If using higher visc oil was a beneficial thing in all engines everyone would call for it. Instead you have many engines calling for thin oils. High viscosity oil is not beneficial at some point, i think we can all agree on that. Where the line is drawn seems to be completely anecdotal so far. :dunno:

I'm just looking for the complete answer, whether it proves me right or wrong.
 

IJ.

Grumpy Old Man
Mar 30, 2005
38,728
0
0
62
I come from a land down under
Lighter oil makes it easier to hit economy targets.... Show me proof that heavier weight oils are damaging to engines...

As I said my "evidence" is anecdotal but it's there having tried/tested lighter oils in high HP 7M's and seeing signs of failure then switching to an oil weight to give my desired pressures and all signs of bearing stress dissapearing..

10/60 is quite thin easy flowing when cold and as start up is where the majority of wear happens I don't get the argument, once at it's operating temp it's still not that heavy that it's going to cause damage, "flow" was mentioned earlier and that pressure is a reasding of resistance to flow in the case of bearings it's a more stable/solid wedge of Oil that isn't as easily displaced causing Bearing to Journal contact.