Seems my head gasket is going...

Doat

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Feb 6, 2012
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Well I picked up my 91 turbo 5spd mk3 yesterday and I have noticed that my reservoir tank gets full of coolant after long drives, now I don't drive the car often because I have another car that I use as a daily. Question is which route should I take? Re-torque the stock bolts until I can replace the gasket, use head gasket sealer until I can replace the gasket, or just let the car sit for awhile until I can replace the gasket?

I've heard mixed things on re-torquing the stock bolts to spec or a little more than spec and mixed things on using head gasket sealer for the meantime.

One more thing, sometimes when I shift into reverse I hear a pretty loud metal clank then when I shift back into reverse it sounds normal, what could this be? It doesn't happen often it's more random.
 

jake8790

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Dec 18, 2011
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If it's pushing coolant the headgasket is blown. Re-torquing won't help, and definitely don't put sealer in it. Let it sit until you can fix it.
Manual trans? The R154 trans is extremely durable. Pretty sure the clank into reverse is normal, my car does it.
 

Doat

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I checked the oil cap and there is a tiny bit of what looks like fudge inside of the cap like a little dab that was also my first clue. Yea it's a manual R154 tranny I know these trannies are solid and tough but that loud clank worried me a bit also when I start off and shift to second I can hear some metal rattling during that time, I think it could be a heat shield or something like that coming from under the car.

What head gasket would you guys recommend? I see all kinds of brands and not sure who is reputable.
 
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jake8790

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Dec 18, 2011
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The easiest way is to pull the head, get it machined, and put in an OEM headgasket from Toyota. It will hold up fine under low boost levels. If you want to run a metal headgasket such as cometic, titan, hks, you are going to have to pull the engine and tear it down; the block and head need to be machined to a mirror finish for it to seal. Use ARP headstuds with whatever headgasket you decide on using.
 

Doat

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Yea I planned on using ARP bolts for sure but I was thinking a metal gasket wouldn't be worth it for me since I don't plan on going crazy with this motor. At most I'd up the stock boost to 10psi after getting the proper injectors and AFM and such. Would a port and polish be a good idea since the motor will be apart? Get rid of 21 year old build up and such.
 

jake8790

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OEM headgasket will be fine on 10psi, that's what I ran for a while and the headgasket looked perfect when I tore the motor down. Stock injectors and AFM are fine on 10psi as well. Use studs, they are better than bolts. I've never ported or polished, I don't see why you couldn't though. Flush the crud out either way.
 

Doat

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I keep forgetting that they have ARP bolts and studs, I meant ARP studs. Yea I'll get the OEM gasket and while I am at it replace the belts and pulleys because they are a bit old and flush out the motor and tranny oil but that will happen when I get a job.
 

Doat

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Alright, thanks for the help and advice much appreciated.

One more thing, you guys recommend using Toyota manual transmission fluid, MT-90, or something else? It seems that MT-90 is the best.
 

jdub

Official SM Expert: Motor Oil, Lubricants & Fil
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Doat;1833637 said:
Alright, thanks for the help and advice much appreciated.

One more thing, you guys recommend using Toyota manual transmission fluid, MT-90, or something else? MT-90 is the best.

Fixed - You will not regret it ;)
 

Doat

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That is what I have been reading lol, what about differential fluid? I also read that 75w-90 or 75w-90 GL-5 gear fluid are good but which one?
 

KTM530

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Jan 24, 2011
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if your havin trouble getting in reverse, try putting it in 2nd before reverse while the cluch is still disenguaged and see if it is easer. not sure what it does but it works on mine and also works in my jeep. good luck.
 

Doat

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It's rare but this morning when I tried to shift into reverse I heard it grind, so I quickly pulled it out re-engaged the clutch and it was fine. I plan on changing the fluid very soon anyway so I will see if that will help. Thanks.
 

Doat

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Yea she will be sitting the driveway again until I can get enough money to get the head gasket changed. A shop I know quoted me roughly $1,500 to machine the head and block and replace the gasket, what do you guys think? I don't think it really needs to be machined or anything like that probably just replacing the gasket with ARP studs is all it needs really.