im running real rich, i just rebiult me motor, i read some of the other threads about running rich, but i still have some questions, i've heard it could be intercooler pipe leak, maf sensor bad, o2 sensor bad, or knock sensor, so how do i check the code? i cant find anyone with obd1 scanner, and on the drivers side of the motor, there are three spots on the block that you can bolt shit to, i only had 2 when i took the motor apart, are those the knock sensors, and could i have put them in the wrong spot?
running rich
- Thread starter supratj
- Start date
hope you find what was causing your to run rich. ever since my rebuild i am running very rich and cant seem to solve the problem:3d_frown:
well, i had 5 codes come up, knock sensor, maf sensor, tps, o2, and something else, but what i dont get, is how all of them are going to fail at the same time, right after i rebiuld the motor???
You don't have a maf sensor (at least not one that'd set a DTC) so I don't get that one. It's quite possible to have codes after you rebuild an engine. Likely in fact. Either the sensors are bad, wiring bad, stuff disconnected, or the sensors are just doing their job and telling you something is wrong with the engine. The O2 code would do that for example, depending on which code it is.
Code 14 is the loss of ignition feedback. Code 32 is the AFM. Code 41 is the TPS potentiometer, 51 is the TPS idle contact (sounds like the TPS isn't plugged in) and 52 is the knock sensor. You have no O2 codes.
Of these 14, 32, and 52 will have the greatest effect. The engine shouldn't even run with a 14 so it beats me how it's doing it. Fix them one at a time starting with those three first.
Toyo knock sensors are delicate. If you mishandled them (dropped or over torqued) you'll need new ones. You could also have a 5 volt supply problem. Check for 5 volts dc at the AFM or TPS connector.
Of these 14, 32, and 52 will have the greatest effect. The engine shouldn't even run with a 14 so it beats me how it's doing it. Fix them one at a time starting with those three first.
Toyo knock sensors are delicate. If you mishandled them (dropped or over torqued) you'll need new ones. You could also have a 5 volt supply problem. Check for 5 volts dc at the AFM or TPS connector.
well, i know the tps is plugged in, and it starts up and i can drive it if i wanted to, but im not bcuz i dont wana mess anything up, the other stuff i will have to check
That's wise. I suggest you clear all codes and start from scratch. There is no way the engine will run with a code 14. The ecu kills injection very soon after the code is set and if it sees it during cranking it'll shut the injectors off within 10 seconds to prevent hydrolocking.
well i know it starts up, obviously, and it is code 14, and i did reset the ecu and the codes dont come up anymore, but it still runs like it did, shitty and rich as hell
Well, if you no longer have any codes you no longer have code 14 so it's gonna run. I didn't explain everything but take my word for it, the engine will not run when it has the fault that causes code 14.
So you had all these codes and now you have none? How can that be? You've got a serious problem lurking in that motor somewhere.
So you had all these codes and now you have none? How can that be? You've got a serious problem lurking in that motor somewhere.
im not doughting you, but when i did have the codes, my car ran, i havent driven it since i cleared the codes, just started it up and let it warm up, i know it has to be something electrical.... i dont know, i just wish i had someone that knows supras to come check it out...
Simply becasue you have a code doesn't mean you still have the problem. Codes will remain set even if the problem disappears. All it means is the code 14 problem corrected itself before the ecu shut the engine shut down. It's why I suggested you clear them and start over. After all, you had all these codes and now you don't. Same situation. They'll be back and when they do you'll be able to look at it closer.
ok well i found the problem and im going to fix it, my codes are 32,51, and 52. now at idle and when i barely accelarate, it cuts out for a second everynow and then, could that be a boost leake?? or is that the knock sensor??