Running rich as #@*&

Oct 11, 2005
3,816
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Thousand Oaks, CA
Disconnect the two wire ECU temp sensor connector at the water neck and the ECU will default to 80C (normal operating temp). That will quickly isolate if you have an issue with the temp sensor as a warm engine will run very close to normal like that.
 

ca91mkIII

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May 23, 2012
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Franklin
Bmettie;1982363 said:
Is that you holding that open? What you're pointing at should be touching

Unfortunately no. I am holding the stop screw that is in the first picture open. I was figuring the second picture is the stop screw that the tsrm is referring to but I wanted to make sure before I diagnose a part as bad that isn't really bad.

For now I am leaving the lex screw alone but I wanted to make sure I knew what it was and how to adjust it since we are on the subject of it.

As far as the csi being disconnected and for those that have run with it disconnected, how big of a pain is it to start the engine in the morning when it is roughly 30 degrees F?

Correct me if I am wrong on how to check the AFM, but the tsrm says to check the resistance between terminals THA and E2 which are on the right hand side of the plug as you are looking directly at the plug. As for verifying that it is or is not a problem, I am checking the afm after it sat inside the house all night and after it sits outside for a couple hours to verify the temp to resistance is correct.
 
Oct 11, 2005
3,816
16
38
Thousand Oaks, CA
That just checks the air temp sensor. To verify AFM operation you need to measure the frequency (Hz) of KS during operation and compare to normal values. Not all meters can ready frequency, usually only on higher end meters.
 

Nick M

Black Rifles Matter
Sep 9, 2005
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Said another way...if you want to do the diagnostic yourself, ditch the Centech brand Harbor Freight sold meter that cost you what, $15? Go into Sears or something similar and get the base Fluke. It might be $125-150 or somewhere in that range.
 

ca91mkIII

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May 23, 2012
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Franklin
I've already got a Fluke as a matter of fact. I have been finding small things that could be causing problems. Once I test the car out I will update on here what I have done.
 

ca91mkIII

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May 23, 2012
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Franklin
Here is an update on what I have checked and what the car is doing at the moment.

So far I have eliminated the CSI completely other then it being a plug in the intake manifold. I have checked the TPS per the TSRM and it checked out fine after some minor adjustments. I have checked for boost leaks twice and so far nothing. I did find that the plug at the top of the throttle body was blowing open as I was cleaning out one of the ports with compressed air and I have now sealed it up. The ECU coolant temp sensor is within its acceptable specification range. I removed the VSV for the fuel pressure temporarily and as of now the fuel pressure gauge only drops about six or seven psi when vacuum is connected to the regulator. I have not checked the VF signal yet because the buttknocks at Tweakd were nice enough to remove the gray check connector when they rebuilt my harness so I have to read through the TSRM to find where those wires go to.

The car is running better but it still runs between 7.6 and 10.2 afr although it does tend to go more towards 10.2 then it used to. I can do a little harder pulls before it hits fuel cut and so far it hasn't jerked at around forty mph like it did before I started this two days ago.
 

Nick M

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Sep 9, 2005
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Show a picture of some spark plugs right after running. High resolution, none of that cell phone shit. Or tablet, or any other idiot millennial contraption that is not a camera.
 

ca91mkIII

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May 23, 2012
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Franklin
For those that dont understand the meaning of update when someone posts update and not pose the question why is it still not working ... I know I have to check more components to figure out what is going on with the motor running hella rich. For the rest that are helping me, I really appreciate it. I am new to upgrading older EFI vehicles so this is definitely a learning process for me. Thank you for your patience.

I am going to take the car out in a little bit and I will put some pictures up of some spark plugs when I get back.
 
Oct 11, 2005
3,816
16
38
Thousand Oaks, CA
Do you really hit fuel cut at 3500 rpm (viz. code 34 is stored)?

If so, the only way to hit fuel cut is to exceed the allowed air flow into the engine. That eliminates injectors, fuel leaks, and other fuel stuff. Just saying...
 

ca91mkIII

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May 23, 2012
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Franklin
Since people seem to like to complain when a simple question is asked, I am researching what the frequency of KS should be while the vehicle is running and under what kind of conditions. Some people have to work for a living and don't have mommy and daddy paying for everything so I haven't been home much since I got the car back together last night.

Here is the spark plugs out of cylinders 1 and 6.

IMG_0407.jpg IMG_0406.jpg
 

Nick M

Black Rifles Matter
Sep 9, 2005
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ca91mkIII;1982795 said:
Since people seem to like to complain when a simple question is asked...

It is just the internet.

Anyway, that doesn't look like 7.6-10.2 to me. There is excessive carbon at the top of the threads, but not the tip. If it was 7.6, it would smoke like an industrial diesel with only a little bit of throttle. And it might have a hard time running at all. I think you said it was running decent, and it wouldn't run very good when super rich.
 
Oct 11, 2005
3,816
16
38
Thousand Oaks, CA
For the lexus afm you should see 17 to 20 Hz at 650rpm hot idle. 900 rpm light load should see 30 Hz. Flat freeway at 65mph 2500rpm light throttle cruise 130-200 Hz. These numbers are approximate, but should help determine if you are close.
 

ca91mkIII

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May 23, 2012
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Franklin
3p141592654;1982909 said:
For the lexus afm you should see 17 to 20 Hz at 650rpm hot idle. 900 rpm light load should see 30 Hz. Flat freeway at 65mph 2500rpm light throttle cruise 130-200 Hz. These numbers are approximate, but should help determine if you are close.

This how I did the procedure last night. I took the positive lead of my meter and put it in the end of the KS terminal. I then took the negative lead and put it on ground. Set the meter to Hz and started the car. Even with the engine cold and running in low rpms, I was seeing between 430 and 700 Hz. Also, I pulled a spark plug after running the engine cold and rich, the plug was clean as could be. I wouldn't think this to be true, but could too hot of a plug cause the plugs to remain clean? Those plugs definitely through me a curveball.

The wideband is brand new as of two weeks ago.