Running hot....?

[Squid699]

T-stat is stuck closed *hopefully*

Yeah JDM engines dont have EGR and you're *supposed* to swap over the USDM Intake and such to accomodate the EGR before its street legal in the US.....not sure about up there, Loki

 

[koulee]

I think you put the thermostat in backwards.... that or it is stuck...

I don't think its possible to install the tstat in backwards. I vote for a new tstat - an oem toyota 190 F tstat is like 20 bux. Should probably change the radiator cap too, another 20 bux.

I did this on my 92 and the temps are nice and low, at about 40-45 % mark.

While you got that shit drained out, put in some royal purple ice or redline water wetter when you refill the radiator - it'll help also.

 

[CPT Furious]

Loki, I had a lot of trouble using the JDM sensors with my US harness and as soon as I swapped my USDM sensors back in, everything worked fine. I agree with Shawndude that it might be grounding itself out. That happened to my oil pressure gauge once...really freaked me out!

 

[Loki]

I took out the t-stat and tried running without one and it did the same thing. My motor isn't a JDM it's just a USDM or CDM or whatever. I really hope it's not a BHG, the oil looks clean and so does my coolant, but I guess I could do a leakdown test and see how it's looking.

I pulled the EGR crap off before the motor went in, I put on blockoff plates and capped off the vacumn lines I needed to block it off. I really wish I had the car here so I could try some of this stuff out now instead of having to wait till I go get the car.

Where would I look to see if the wire is grounding out? I'm still also going to try hooking up an aftermarket gauge and seeing how hot the motor is actually running. Well I'll try that after I try out a few of the things some of you have suggested.

 

[shaeff]

I'm still betting on an incompatible sensor from the JDM engine... plug the sensors from your old engine in, I bet this goes away.

i used every JDM sensor on my motor, except for the oil pressure sending unit, and everything functions 100% on mine.

it wouldnt be different for the JDM sensors because only the oil pressure gives you an actual value, unlike the water temp, that just sits at half mast, and thats normal operating temp.

the only sensor that you should have to change is the oil pressure sending unit, other than that, splice on some different connectors, and you'll be golden. (at least it worked perfectly on mine. 89+ motor, 86.5 chassis)

-shaeff

 

[CPT Furious]

Oil pressure and CSI time switch were two that gave me the most trouble.

Loki: You can also get an engine block tester to see if you are getting any exhaust gasses in your coolant. How quickly does the gauge go to full scale? If it happens relatively quickly, I would suspect a grounding issue.

 

[Loki]

It doesn't shoot up as soon as I turn the car on, it'll sit down at the bottom like normal then as the car starts to heat up like normal the guage starts to move. Instead of stopping at the middle like it usually does it just keeps going and going, and ends up past the H.

 

[corewitz]

you could rent one of those lazer pointer thermometers and just point it at the upper radiator hose or on the thermostat and read how hot really is to see if your gauge is telling the truth, or just take the cap off the radiator and put a thermometer in it

 

[Joel W.]

If the cars not really overheating, not smoking, not losing coolant. then I would try another temp sending unit.. very wierd imo

 

[shaeff]

loki, if you need another temp sending unit, i've got a good one. you can have it, free. just let me know. i have no use for it.

-shaeff

 

[Loki]

I'll remember that Shaeff, I have another spare one so I'll try that and maybe stick in an aftermarket one and see what happens. If that all fails and it's still going crazy I'm going to just trailer the car up here so I can work on it all the time and not have it so far away

 

[Shawndude]

Loki. See that "A/C coolant sensor"?

http://www.supramania.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=5421&d=1143096105

It's usually ground, but when the coolant reaches 234 F it opens. By that temperature, the coolant gauge in the dash should be about 80% to the red zone. Grab a voltmeter and when the gauge indicates it's pegged in the red zone, see what this sensor tells you. Continuity to ground = under 234F or not ground = over 234F.

By the way, the sensor is used to turn off the A/C when the car is getting close to overheating. That's all the sensor does.