Running hot. Can not figure out why. 2J MKIII... 240* on the highway

[GrimJack]

Candy thermometer from any cooking store is about ~$5, and works in water well. Try to keep it from touching the pan, though, or it'll give you the wrong reading.

 

[IJ.]

Candy thermometer from any cooking store is about ~$5, and works in water well. Try to keep it from touching the pan, though, or it'll give you the wrong reading.

All the markings came off mine from years of being used in non candy/automotive applications, last time I used my Digi IR Gun

 

[GrimJack]

LOL! I use an IR gun now, too. My candy thermometer must be tougher than yours, all the markings are stamped in the metal backing plate on mine. Of course, it's also older than me. Hell, it's older than you.

 

[IJ.]

LOL! I use an IR gun now, too. My candy thermometer must be tougher than yours, all the markings are stamped in the metal backing plate on mine. Of course, it's also older than me. Hell, it's older than you.

LMAO same as mine (was my Mothers), it's stamped but it had paint in the stampings so it was easier to see, a couple of years in the Hot Tank fixed that

 

[eman2289]

You're too smart for me. I had my parts guy get me a new one.. burping the system now. Then comes a test drive

 

[eman2289]

Where should the probe from my e fans be installed? They cycle for about 5 seconds. I just realized. even with the car hot as hell. could the probe be installed in a spot where cool air is getting pulled passed it and shutting it off??

 

[Poodles]

Those stick in t-stats are garbage for that exact reason.

 

[eman2289]

What can i do to fix this problem? Is there one i can plumb in??

Heres where it was

And this is it pulled out

I didnt purchase it, a shop did, but i believe this is it
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PRM-18905/?rtype=10

 

[IBoughtASupra]

I posted once, and I will say it again. If you insist on using the electric fans, get a thermostatic switch. Wire in a relay for the fans which I assume you have done, then use the switch to turn on the relay and not your probe or ignition. The switch will send a ground to the switch circuit on the relay when the certain temperature is achieved and turn on the relay.

You can buy different switches which range in different temperatures. You should buy something along the lines of 170-175. If you buy a 180, which is the operating temperature for a 2JZ, the electric fans might not be good enough to be turned on at that exact temperature to cool the engine, so you might have to turn them on a little earlier.

Try the 170F first, then you can move up if you see the engine is running too cold.

Ian knows this well as he had to turn on his fans a couple degrees before the desired temperature to compensate for the spin up time to get to full power.

 

[eman2289]

I don't understand what you mean by a thermostatic switch. Is the probe unit not a thermostatic switch? It is designed to turn on at 180* apparently (but can be adjusted for higher temps)

Do you have a link to what it is that you're talking about so I can better understand? As far as I knew, the fan probe modules are thermostatic switches (turn on at a certain temp)

 

[Poodles]

One that is actually in contact with the coolant (like stock).

 

[te72]

I much prefer having the temp probe drilled into the water neck. If you know someone who can weld onto aluminum for ya, have them attach a bung to your water neck, and use a screw in style probe.

 

[eman2289]

That's the part we miscommunicated about. Okay. I figured that will be much better.

---------- Post added at 03:37 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:29 PM ----------

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HDA-3651/

This?

 

[IBoughtASupra]

Yes, remove the water neck and get someone to weld a fitting in so you can screw in the sensor. They are usually 1/8" NPT but if you are not sure, just order it and wait until you get it to buy the right fitting.

You can also tap the waterneck but I don't really like that since you have to grind it to get a smooth surface. If you just blocked off the stock coolant lines on the water neck, you can have the ports trimmed and tapped there as well and it would look neat.

 

[eman2289]

Jumped out the fans and took it for a ride. It stayed about 190 while driving and when stopped at lights went to about 180. I guess that was my problem!

So, which thermostatic switch would you recommend?
And is like to delete the stock gauge and install the probe there. What size is the stock coolant temp sensor?

 

[IJ.]

Thought one of the stock Sensors turns the Aux fans on around that temp for the AC?
(If so you could use that to trigger a relay)

 

[IBoughtASupra]

Ian, I believe the 7M is the only one that has that. It is the sensor on the water neck and turns on the A/C fans at 212F. The JZ engines only have two sensors for temperature. One is the gauge and the other is the ECU sensor.

OP, you will have to remove the stock temperature gauge sender, take it to your local performance shop and ask for an adapter. The sensor in that kit is most likely 1/8" NPT. Get the kit first and then go and buy the adapter taking the stock gauge sender with you.

 

[Poodles]

1JZ uses a sensor in the bottom of the radiator to control the hydrofan. Think it also gets commands from the ECU (for A/C and possibly overheat protection).

 

[mkiiichip]

The cheap probes cycle the fans, while over heating, (while lowering coolant temps minimally (only lowering probe temps)).

I knew this was the case.

The only good place for that style probe, is in the trash.


EDIT: sorry i didnt see page 2

 

[Dylan JZ]

the 1J ecu did not have a provision for turning on the AUX fan to my knowledge, hence the reason why I removed it.. I do plan on reinstalling it at some point before it gets super hot again.


all JDM JZA70s I've seen have no AUX fan anyhow (removed or never came factory).