Running a 7M without the Coolant By-pass Tube

[IJ.]

Some how I knew you'd say that. However since my car will will only be going a quarter mile at a time and maybe a few times down the street and back, mile or so. Do you still think its necessary? Asking for the crowd as I now plan to put in a hose. Also why would it cause cavitation? Is is because of system design? Isn't it the same setup as an N/A but with those bosses tapped for the hoses? Trickle valve isn't enough to keep pump from building pressure? Makes since to me but I must know why in order for the info to stick

It won't build pressure it'll cavitate while the T Stat is closed.

Up to you it's one hose and a couple of clamps to do it correctly.

 

[mk3ukr]

There is a 30c degree difference in head Temp on an idling 7M front to rear so ANYTHING that helps reduce the rear of head temp can only be a good thing.

Ian, how did you measure it, with infrared thermometer? I knew about rear part of the head running hotter, 30C seems a lot.
The best to help cylinder head cooling is to run heater on full blast on the track.
I have electric water pump in the lower radiator hose and now think it would be good idea for me to reroute heater line to upper radiator hose.

 

[IJ.]

Yep IR gun.

 

[Zumtizzle]

Also, the heater control valve never completely closes...there is always a small flow through the heater core. If you remove those lines though, it will not really matter.

I checked on this.

It's VERY tiny.

 

[Poodles]

Also, on what IJ is talking about, the N/A has a bypass as well if you wanted to swap the t-stat housing and clean it up.

 

[deabionni]

The person I got my GTE from had the coolant bypass tubes modified to cut out the heater circuit. Here's a pic of the modified upper tube, and blocked off lower tube.

(I still have the tubes, and I'm open to offers if you want them).

 

[jdub]

I checked on this.

It's VERY tiny.

Yep - You'd be surprised how much flow will go through a tiny passage