Rod Knock. With video.
- Thread starter ask92
- Start date
Drained the oil today and it definitely has a metallic tinge to it, almost looks like brown metallic paint lol, also when i pulled #4 plug wire and it seemed to make the noise change and get a big clunkier. I will be having my spare crank machined and will buy new main and rod bearings, as well as replacing the HG. I will also clean the entire block again to attempt to get all the metallic out. The oil pump is making good pressure and the rings are sealing perfectly so I don't see any reason to replace them. The cylinder compression was in a good uniformity, from 120-127 over 2 go overs. I believe it is reading low because of my old crappy compression tester.Any thoughts to what else I can do to ensure the engine will run healthy while rebuilding?
Well tore it down it indeed WAS rod knock. The bearings were a bit discolored, and 1/2 of one of the arms is pitted, all the others are perfect :/. Now im gonna make sure its done right, gonna have it machined, get a set of brand new ACL main and rod bearings.I will also redo the HG to make sure it doesn't get a BHG and put coolant into the oil and destroy all this work...
Use Clevite bearings. I still say you should do a full rebuild. If you don't tank wash the bare block and head, you will be putting some metal right back into your new bottom end. Then your going to end up with rod knock again and be pissed. Do your self a favor and bit the bullet. Full rebuild.
What do you mean by "full rebuild"? The only thing not being changed are the rings and oil pump. The car had 112k on it. My compression and oil PSI were great when it ran. The block will be completely cleaned out(again) to make sure it doesn't throw all the crap right back in, as well as a installing magnetic oil drain bolt. Ive only read good things about ACL, any reason to go clevite?