ROD KNOCK in one day!!!!!!!!!!!

[figgie]

im probably gonna rebuild the bottom end if i cant find a good deal on a 2jz swap, does anybody besides toyota make a 7mgte crankshaft? drove it with pretty bad knock(had to get home) so im pretty sure the crank is toast.

Of course. Any company can make custom anything. The question is how much money are you willing to part with to get it done. It won't be cheap and it will definetly be time consuming.

As for the crank being toast. You would be surprised at what the 7m Crank can take.

 

[rtrdpenguin]

realistically thats what you would do for a 7m too.. so pretty it pretty much boils down to him wanting to do the harness and a couple small things..

But you said it would only cost "under 1,200"

 

[WhtMa71]

You mentioned you're broke..Rebuilding it will be the cheapest thing you can do and don't even THINK about any JZ swap if you're broke. Chances are the swap would cost more than you paid for your car. I wouldn't even think about a 1jz swap.

Yea sure you may be able to find a 1jz engine on eBay for 1g but by the time you buy all the shit you need to put it in a make it work right..you'll have spent WAY more than you paid for the engine...Remember it's still a junkyard motor..Even if it comes with the ecu and ignitor..you'll still have to fix the cut up wiring harness and then it will have to be extended. Then you need engine mounts, r154 transmission and 1jz bell housing(about $350 by itself), new drive shaft, intercooler and piping, intake pipe, downpipe to connect to your exhaust(assuming the one on it is cut). Then you have to get all the maintenance things like new timing belt and tensioner, and a bunch of other seals and gaskets(front and rear, cam, etc..) I'm sure there are a lot of other things I missed.

There's not a chance in hell a 1jz swap will cost you only $1200 with it in the car and running properly.

Take your motor out and take it all to a machine shop. They'll tell you if the crank needs to be ground and if you need over sized bearings. Then look around for a rebuild kit with the proper sized stuffs. It'll probably still be about $2k cheaper than a swap.

Just my .02

 

[grimreaper]

LMAO, the cost of the motor= cost of the swap :runaway:

I like the torque of the 7m but rod knock seems to be a big issue with them

Originally Posted by Supracentral
However I still stand by my statement that 99 times out of 100, the weak link in the MKIII is the owner.

 

[Mikek3]

well looks like the weak point in this supra was the previous owner cause i had the turbo rebuilt changed the oil changed the plugs installed an egr system fixed all the vaccum/pcv hoses and drove it for one day and got rod knock, so if anyones implying this is my fault think about that, as for a 1jz swap it all depends on how much money im gonna spend but i would rather not throw any money into an engine that could possibly get rod knock again

 

[CajunKenny]

Don't be dissin the 7M!

8 times out of 10 a rod knock is due to lack of maintenance and care. My 87 developed a rod knock two weeks after I owned it. The knock wasn't there on my way to work one day; but, was there when I was coming back from lunch. I babied the car home, dropped the subframe, and changed the bearings. Bearings were like $40 bucks.

I then drove the car for a year at 12 psi without any problems. The key to my 'Rod Knock Success Story' is that I caught it right away. MANY of other folks that caught the rod knock right away have done the same repair successfully.

My guess is that the person you bought it from ~probably~ knew about the rod knock and put some really thick oil in it help hide the knock. This is speculation; but, what is not speculation is that the car was NOT cared for properly. That is evident.

Contact the seller and see if they'll help you in some way.

Good luck.

 

[grimreaper]

well looks like the weak point in this supra was the previous owner

agreed

as for a 1jz swap it all depends on how much money im gonna spend but i would rather not throw any money into an engine that could possibly get rod knock again

7m's arent PRONE to rod knock more then any other motor out there. this appears to be a HUGE misconception. either it was NOT repaired properly, or something else happend most likely involving lack of attention to the oil or trash floating through the motor (again, some didnt stay on top of something simple).

 

[Poodles]

Go look around in the JZ part of the forums, there are plently of cases of 1J's and 2J's getting rod knock as well.

Starve an engine of oil, and it WILL knock.

Yeah, still gonna laugh at what it really takes to put a 1J in a car. Why do you think there as so many 1J swapped cars for sale? There are so many unfinished swaps out there it's not even funny, it's NOT as simple as it seems...

 

[Mikek3]

Yeah my guess is that the kid knew the car had rod knock before he sold it to me. He wont return my phone calls. assh0le, but what can you do. This thing is knocking real loud so i doubt i can just drop the subframe and replace the bearings and i lack the tools (and skills) to pull the motor and rebuild it, i took 2 years of mechanics but its all in theory not practice. But i guess theres only one way to get practice, i have sourced a crank kit for about 400 and am in the process of finding a good machine shop. Would a machine shop be able to tell me if the crank is toast? I figure though if im pulling it i might as well go big and build a monster but that will take time cause i have bills to pay and can hardly save money but i know you guys will help me along the way, if i do decide to rebuild i will start a build thread and keep you updated.

 

[Jaguar_5]

Yes, don't buy anything until you have a machinist check it out

Make sure the machinist has worked with 7M's before, many times, there are many quirks to get it right!

 

[IJ.]

Unless you have a huge budget or a lot of disposable income don't go "big".....

Walk before you run, just build a good solid base then later you can add the "big" if needed.

We see a LOT of failed "big" projects here that just end up parted out.

 

[Mikek3]

Would i have to replace my rods, i would assume i do since rod knock usually leads to a broken rod my rods gotta be cracked or something.

 

[IJ.]

At a bare minimum I'd have them resized.

 

[Poodles]

Depends on how bad everything is when you pull it apart...

 

[easternguy2005]

Like mentioned you would be surprised at what a supra crank can take. If I were to do mine again I would drop the pan in the car and inspect the crank. If there's no damage on the crank you can try replacing that bearing sets using the numbers that are stamped on that engine (can't remember cap or engine side or rod) when the engine was manufactured for an exact replacement of that size bearing.

I've done this with other cars in the past - some success and some started knocking again. This would cost you under $70 but there's so many factors such as what caused it, mileage on the car etc. Its really risky cause there are so many "depends" and it could start knocking again after all that work.

 

[Mikek3]

My guess would be that a bhg caused the rod knock ive read on here that coolant in the oil can cause rod knock and the previous owner bought the car with a bhg and had the block and head milled and replaced the head gasket with a cometic 2mm, i figure that and the fact that the engine has approx. 140,000++ miles on it would be the two contributing factors. I have been looking for a engine hoist on craigslist and will get one as soon as i have the cash, then the work starts.

 

[CATarga]

Walk before you run, just build a good solid base then later you can add the "big" if needed.

Exactly the route I am taking w/my '87. I considered going big(block/head wise while it was out), and after inquiring about the car, it seems I really didn't need to reach my end goal of 450rwhp. I am doing a stock rebuild(other than MHG, head studs, intake/exhaust upgrade), so I have a new working platform to build up later. Also since I live here in CA I wanted to make sure everything was running clean for smog before doing performance upgrades and then trying to chase down smog failing issues.

If you need to use the car, don't have the money now to do a complete rebuild, and have the room to pull the sub frame, pulling the pan and checking/replacing the bearings is the cheapest way to go. I too have just pulled the pan and replaced bearings to fix rod knock, however this was on truck motors, which are far easier to get to.

It should only be about $200 to have the crank turned, more if they have to weld any material on. Check craigslist.com for your area.

 

[Mikek3]

yeah i dont think im gonna try doing it from underneath i read about it and it seems like a lot of work and its not a garenteed(sp?) fix if i could just just drop the pan without dropping the subframe i would defintily do it a freind of mine changed his pistons without pulling the motor that way and we did it in like 6 hours but his pan was easily removed and we had a lift.