Rod knock! Damn..

[*james*]

So I got new drag radials today from my friend, so we put them on and I practiced some launches leaving at 4500-5500 rpms without much tire spin, that's what I wanted! Then we drove to get some food and on the way back from there we did some more launches. The last launch we did, we heard a quiet knock. I got that feeling it was a rod knock but I didn't jump to conclusions. It could of been something rattled loose or many other things. We weren't far from my friends so I took it there, and later on got it towed from there. I have a feeling the previous owner left the bhg for too long and it slowly deteriated the bearing because I got the car with bhg. It sounds like only one of the rods are knocking which is good. I have worked on it since and finally had it running great, felt strong and ran well. I plan on keeping the 7m, it CAN be a strong engine, I don't want to just resort to a 1j or 2j like some people, built the right way it will hold my hp goals, (no more than 600whp). I was planning on rebuilding and getting the boss jr. 60-1 turbo with supporting mods this winter, just didn't expect it to blow up this soon. I just thought I would let all of you know my luck for the day and share some stories of your own if you would like!

-Anyone with a rebuilt 7mgte they would like to sell send me a pm, preferrably just the bottom end. Thanks!

 

[Reiketsukan]

That's terrible, man! I'm sorry to hear that! :3d_frown:

 

[*james*]

That's terrible, man! I'm sorry to hear that! :3d_frown:

Yea i know, thanks for the support chase! I was planning on rebuild this winter, paint as well. So it will be awesome to see what it becomes after this winter, can't wait!

 

[supra90turbo]

You did the right thing by having it towed and not drive on it like most people.
You'll be able to get away with just replacing the bearings if you have to, it would make an easy job to get it back on the road.

I don't know what "DMI" means for location, but I've got a couple good 7M shortblocks. If you're somewhat local to me.
One's a GTE and one's a GE.

 

[*james*]

You did the right thing by having it towed and not drive on it like most people.
You'll be able to get away with just replacing the bearings if you have to, it would make an easy job to get it back on the road.

I don't know what "DMI" means for location, but I've got a couple good 7M shortblocks. If you're somewhat local to me.
One's a GTE and one's a GE.

I live in Des Moines, Iowa... I plan on rebuilding with eagle rods, JE's .20 over and clevite bearings. I'm aiming for 500-600whp no more, and I don't think stock internals would hold up that long. Are your shortblocks built? I'm talking to a guy now with one, but I'm still waiting on an answer. If I can't find a rebuilt block, I will just be rebuilding mine.

 

[kamikazemkiii]

im in NC, im not 100% sure but i think ill be parting my 7m out soon. The bottom end is built with .40 over eith eagle h beam rods, wiseco pistons, and a new oil pump only ran about 4000 miles ive pretty much decided to turn my build in another direction.

 

[*james*]

im in NC, im not 100% sure but i think ill be parting my 7m out soon. The bottom end is built with .40 over eith eagle h beam rods, wiseco pistons, and a new oil pump only ran about 4000 miles ive pretty much decided to turn my build in another direction.

PM me a price your looking to get for it and if you could ship to 50317, add that in too please. I'm really looking to keep it less than .20 over but I would consider it.

 

[Evilempire1.3JZ-GTE]

If you want < 600hp & a good reliable engine, why decide a 2jz is a bad choice?
A low mileage 2jz-ge could be found be found for ~200 NA-T a bolt on NA-T solution puts you in the safe reliable hp goal your looking for.

I sold my JZ OEM motor mounts on ebay for ~60 around what they go for
Bell housing is ~300 new for ~700 you could have a NA reliable build 230HP NA

I am just saying JZ engines are more reliable in factory setting still running on the road commonly found where on the contrary you will find most of the 7M in the endangered or near extinct list with an over priced rebuild.

I think if you post in this section you have a little more luck getting a 7M
http://www.supramania.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=58
Best wishes for getting your car on the road
By the way I have lost 3-4 7M engines from rod knock and took good care of the engines before switching to JZ and never regretted it since.

 

[*james*]

If you want < 600hp & a good reliable engine, why decide a 2jz is a bad choice?
A low mileage 2jz-ge could be found be found for ~200 NA-T a bolt on NA-T solution puts you in the safe reliable hp goal your looking for.

I sold my JZ OEM motor mounts on ebay for ~60 around what they go for
Bell housing is ~300 new for ~700 you could have a NA reliable build 230HP NA

I am just saying JZ engines are more reliable in factory setting still running on the road commonly found where on the contrary you will find most of the 7M in the endangered or near extinct list with an over priced rebuild.

I think if you post in this section you have a little more luck getting a 7M
http://www.supramania.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=58
Best wishes for getting your car on the road
By the way I have lost 3-4 7M engines from rod knock and took good care of the engines before switching to JZ and never regretted it since.

I didn't say 1j or 2j is a bad choice, just didn't want to resort to that. It's a lot more work and it will take longer for me to get on the road. It may be a smart idea though, and it would be around the same price as a rebuild. I'm still deciding, I don't know what I want to do yet. I deffinately don't want to spend the money on something that will/could blow up. No engine should blow up multiple times like that, obviously somethings not right. The 7m has to be exact, like it came from the factory with all the specs correct, from my understanding at least. The 7m doesn't rod knock from the factory, it's when you start modding them or rebuilding, or just letting the maintenance go, that decreases the lifetime. So if I can get everything right I should be fine, and it is a strong engine. I'm not sure if I want to take the risk though! You did make me think twice, it is an exspensive build for something thats not exactly gaurunteed..

 

[darrick]

Good luck with the rebuild james, Get it the way you want it. Then it will run good. Btw join the rod knock club the luminator has it as well but it'l run for a while longer hopefully!

 

[*james*]

Good luck with the rebuild james, Get it the way you want it. Then it will run good. Btw join the rod knock club the luminator has it as well but it'l run for a while longer hopefully!

You shouldn't drive it if it's knocking! Have you found out for sure if it's rod knock?

 

[NewGen]

if you dont care if it blows it up doesnt really matter

 

[Hmong_1G]

There is nothing wrong with 1j or 2j's. I too was in the same predicament as you are on staying 7m or other routes. After long searches and reading how durable a 7m can be if done right ... the choice was quite clear. I have nothing against 2j or 1j... but after my fresh 7m rebuild; I don't think anything else would of dropped in without any more modification and supply tremendous torque. Torque is unbelievable on a perfectly built 7m. For simplicity just rebuild the 7m and enjoy one of a kind u turns at 1/4 throttle :icon_bigg.