Road racing on the track w/o a thermostat

SeeUSmile

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Nov 22, 2012
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Take your front bumper off haha. If it's allowed... and it costs you nothing but your time :3.
There maybe better ways than this but that involves hurting your wallet.

But in all seriousness most of the cooling is heavy relied on aerodynamic cooling in high speeds which is why you might see some people without front bumpers to get more air flowing to the radiator.


Supra MK3 Steering Angle.jpg
 

IJ.

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Mar 30, 2005
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assembly60.jpg
 

Van

87t Hardtop
Mar 26, 2006
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Poodles;1948931 said:
Keep in mind the Turbo-A ran the oil cooler behind the crash bar and it had cutouts and a vent in front to get air to it :)

Can also run the oil cooler on the sides where the fog lights go (if you have them removed).
I have the crash bar already cut out, but was hoping not to have to locate the oil cooler there as the car looks badly aesthetically with the Group A air guide, but I must get control over the cooling problem and all I'd need to do is relocate the oil cooler and add the guide and go back to the track... The car is fitted with NACA brake cooling ducts where the fog lights used to be.
Any other thoughts or suggestions?
SeeUSmile;1948935 said:
Take your front bumper off haha. If it's allowed... and it costs you nothing but your time :3.
There maybe better ways than this but that involves hurting your wallet.

But in all seriousness most of the cooling is heavy relied on aerodynamic cooling in high speeds which is why you might see some people without front bumpers to get more air flowing to the radiator.


View attachment 68114
Thank you for that suggestion. After I fit the air guide and it still doesn't solve the problem... I wish, the cars must have two crash bars, one front and one rear.

IJ.;1948938 said:
Electric H2O pump, I presume?
 
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IJ.

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As mentioned earlier in the thread the 7M pump has 2 "holes" 1 at idle where it's barely moving any water and another above 6000 where it's cavitating, if you fit a different pully to slow it down you're going to have huge issues at idle, I overcame this by fitting the EWP pictured ann controlling it with the MoTeC, Davies Craig also do a standalone controller that will emulate what I did.

Even on 40c days I could idle along in traffic then do a pull to 8300 no problems at all, pre pump either scenario would have resulted in huge Temp spikes.
 

1-2clutch-u

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Feb 18, 2006
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I was having sim probs. I did the undertray as suggested ($200) later didnt help at all. Im in the process of doing a 10blade fan with shroud. from my e fans. I swear if this doesnt fix it i dont know what im gonna do. was the 7m just not meant to be road raced? also I dont go over 6k so I should be fine with stock water pump right?
 

Insidious Surmiser

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May 12, 2006
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IJ.;1949052 said:
As mentioned earlier in the thread the 7M pump has 2 "holes" 1 at idle where it's barely moving any water and another above 6000 where it's cavitating, if you fit a different pully to slow it down you're going to have huge issues at idle, I overcame this by fitting the EWP pictured ann controlling it with the MoTeC, Davies Craig also do a standalone controller that will emulate what I did.

Even on 40c days I could idle along in traffic then do a pull to 8300 no problems at all, pre pump either scenario would have resulted in huge Temp spikes.

wait, did you toss the stock pump or add a larger pulley?
 

IJ.

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The DC EWP operates in series with the stock pump, whichever is flowing more at the time will pass through the other, I just used it around idle and above 6000, the stock pump was fine in between.
 

Van

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ATL88Supra;1949173 said:
i hope you have a massive oil cooler, 7m's get hot HOT HOT oil at high revs
The car is fitted with a long, RX-7 oil cooler and new thermo pellet. The cooled oil is returned to the sump. Oil returning to the sump was 240 degrees (Auto Meter gauge).
 

IJ.

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Yep looks like it's set up using the Factory Bypass cooler lines, you'd need to upgrade to -10 lines and fittings then either get a sandwich plate under the filter or run a remote filter.

Your engine will thank you for the additional pressure/flow and cooling.
 

Van

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IJ.;1949233 said:
Yep looks like it's set up using the Factory Bypass cooler lines, you'd need to upgrade to -10 lines and fittings then either get a sandwich plate under the filter or run a remote filter.

Your engine will thank you for the additional pressure/flow and cooling.
Thank U.
Next item to take care of before the next track day. Is there a high quality brand U might recommend?
 

IJ.

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Canton Make some nice Filter relocation gear, you don't need a T Stat as the RX7 Cooler is built in, I ran -10 Pushlock hoses and fittings for mine, still run the same system on the Blown LS in my current toy, Remote adaptor on the block>Filter>T Stat>Cooler>3 Qt Accusump>Remote adaptor
 

Van

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IJ.;1949240 said:
Canton Make some nice Filter relocation gear, you don't need a T Stat as the RX7 Cooler is built in, I ran -10 Pushlock hoses and fittings for mine, still run the same system on the Blown LS in my current toy, Remote adaptor on the block>Filter>T Stat>Cooler>3 Qt Accusump>Remote adaptor
Thanks, IJ.
Where is the oil returned to in this setup you're recommending? Oh DAH I see that it is returned to the remote adaptor...
 
Oct 11, 2005
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Do you have any data on your cooling system (water temp in/out, air temp in/out). With some data you can start to figure out your radiator efficiency. Stock centrifugal pump makes about 30psi at ~3000. Should be plenty for your conditions. If its cavitating for any significant length of time you will get overflow out the cap from the aeration. (7M is reverse flow so the rad is in suction on the bottom pipe).

First question would be is your water pump impeller damaged or a cheap aftermarket? I would check that out if you've ruled out the other basic stuff.

Assuming the pump is good, my guess is you need more (or more uniform) air flow, but you need to get some data.

Stewart Components website
"A common misconception is that if coolant flows too quickly through the system, that it will not have time to cool properly. However the cooling system is a closed loop, so if you are keeping the coolant in the radiator longer to allow it to cool, you are also allowing it to stay in the engine longer, which increases coolant temperatures. Coolant in the engine will actually boil away from critical heat areas within the cooling system if not forced through the cooling system at a sufficiently high velocity. This situation is a common cause of so-called "hot spots", which can lead to failures.

Years ago, cars used low pressure radiator caps with upright-style radiators. At high RPM, the water pump pressure would overcome the radiator cap's rating and force coolant out, resulting in an overheated engine. Many enthusiasts mistakenly believed that these situations were caused because the coolant was flowing through the radiator so quickly, that it did not have time to cool. Using restrictors or slowing water pump speed prevented the coolant from being forced out, and allowed the engine to run cooler. However, cars built in the past thirty years have used cross flow radiators that position the radiator cap on the low pressure (suction) side of the system. This type of system does not subject the radiator cap to pressure from the water pump, so it benefits from maximizing coolant flow, not restricting it."
 

Van

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3p141592654;1949274 said:
Do you have any data on your cooling system (water temp in/out, air temp in/out). With some data you can start to figure out your radiator efficiency. Stock centrifugal pump makes about 30psi at ~3000. Should be plenty for your conditions. If its cavitating for any significant length of time you will get overflow out the cap from the aeration. (7M is reverse flow so the rad is in suction on the bottom pipe).

First question would be is your water pump impeller damaged or a cheap aftermarket? I would check that out if you've ruled out the other basic stuff.

Assuming the pump is good, my guess is you need more (or more uniform) air flow, but you need to get some data.
Actually 3P, the H2O pump is a stock 7MGTE, remanufactured one from Toyota and purchased seven weeks ago.
Unfortunately, the only data I have is the ambient temps and the Auto meter H2O temps (pulled off the bottom tank). Air temp was 72 and the bottom tank temp, 220.
I like your reasoning on this problem and I'll start getting the information needed to make an informed decision.
Thanks for that direction, 3P.