Road Racing at the track
- Thread starter suprarx7nut
- Start date
LOL, I think VIR is well known enough...themadhatter said:
Use whatever tires you have on there now only do 2-3 laps at a time. Spending less then $130 a tire for road racing is just a waste of money.
Make sure your car is in good mechanical condition.
Road racing is extremely tough on everything.
Tires, brakes, cooling, and suspension.
Road racing is extremely tough on everything.
Tires, brakes, cooling, and suspension.
MK3Brent said:
Yup, I've got all fall/winter to get it running as well as possible. This is actually my main concern.(I certainly dont want to strain it beyond its limits)
I'm really just doing my research now so I can be well informed/prepared when I've got the opportunity to jump on the track.
Thanks guys,
-Andy
^Until they are pushed too far, then they'll snap away so fast his head will be spinning for days. LOL.
Poodles said:
Ya, I'm planning on new brakes all around, possibly the 935 motorsports slotted rotors with some good pads. As far as the cooling system goes is there a good way to test the various components?
Thermastat is brand new from toyota, as well as cap and fluid. Its never overheated or even gone above halfway. Radiator is some aftermarket brand previous owner put in...
Are there any sort of test I could do to determine the strength/effectiveness of the system?
doesn't matter ont he rotors, the brakes are simply too small for the car when pushed hard.
Use the best brake fluid you can, as I've seen first hand how badly the stock brakes with decent pads and slotted/drilled rotors do (they boil the brake fluid giving you no brakes)
keep an eye on your coolan temp with an aftermarket gauge and if it goes too high, simply get off the track.
Use the best brake fluid you can, as I've seen first hand how badly the stock brakes with decent pads and slotted/drilled rotors do (they boil the brake fluid giving you no brakes)
keep an eye on your coolan temp with an aftermarket gauge and if it goes too high, simply get off the track.
Change all your fluids, trans, coolant, rear end, and bleed all your old brake fluid out and use, like Poodles said, the best fluid you can find, DOT 4.suprarx7nut said:
It's also a good idea to take it to a mechanic that can put it up on a rack and check everything out. Sometimes somebody else can spot something that you might miss and it usally doesn't cost much($25-$30)
DO NOT the first couple of times go with racing tires. Just use a good street tire like everybody has suggested. You'll get to know the squeel, then squalk of a street tire's threshold. Like MKIII said racing tires are sticky, but when they let loose you really have to be quick and know the limits of your car. As far as the brakes, yeah if you can upgrade rotors and a good pad. Our if you have to, use stock rotors with a good pad, just ease into things, in slow-out fast. Make sure you take extra brake fluid when you go, and check your brake fluid after you run for a while. It will usally drop some depending on how fast the track is. I've seen guys have to put on an extra set of pads during the day, just make sure you bed them before you need to stop quick. Extra quart of oil in the pan helps too and one or two on hand.
There are things you can do to check out the cooling system, just search and read the TSRM.
Running on the track is a lot of fun and it is hard on your car, but if you maintain it well enough and don't overdrive your limits or the car's, you'll be hooked.:icon_bigg
So, just so I know, you're going to do this with nearly 300k on the clock? I hope those are chassis miles only...
mkIIIman089 said:
Lol, yes chassis miles only. JDM engine with about 100k (50k since install). Headgasket reapaired by a mechanic 20k ago. Tranny JUST rebuilt. I put the tranny back in only 500 miles ago.