Rich @ WOT

[isnms]

I decided to get my vacuum for my EVC off the hard line that goes in front of the engine for the p/s idle up.
Now I have read in the instructions:

· Do not connect port #1 to the line that operates the fuel pressure regulator unless the supplemental instructions tell you to do so.

Well, that line does also control the vacuum for the fpr vsv. I seem to run rich at wot - 9.6a/f and black smoke when accelerating.

Would where I have the evc vacuum connected have anything to do with that?
If not, check my mods in the sig and see if you can see why I may be running so rich. FYI I don't have the RebicLC turned on.
I do have a new O2 sensor to be installed.

 

[Bishop92t]

You need to connect the EVC vacuum line to the port on the back of the intake plenum. That way you make sure you aren't behind any VSV's or interferring with the FPR.

If you aren't throwing an O2 code, then I would guess the problem to be fouled plugs, weak ignition or small boost leak.

 

[isnms]

cool, i'll be moving my vacuum source this weekend

 

[isnms]

Ok, got my vacuum source moved.
I’m still running very rich at wot – 9.6AF Also smokes on acceleration.
I’ll check/change spark plugs this weekend.
How do I check for leaky injector?
I used an auto stethoscope and listened to each and each one has a ticking sound. I guess a ticking does not necessarily mean it’s closing all the way :dunno:

 

[Bishop92t]

Easiest way to check for a leaky injector is to bring it to a shop that specializes in injector cleaning/testing. About all you can do without the correct equipment is make sure the injector o-rings aren't leaking fuel on the engine. Our injectors make a loud tick sound during operation, perfectly normal.

Are you blowing black smoke during acceleration or a different color?

 

[isnms]

Thanks Bishop for your replies.

I got a couple of friends to stand and watch as I accelerate. I do have a slight bit of black smoke when I accelerate hard from a stop. Not thick enough for me to see from inside.

They told me that near the end of my acceleration it became a bigger gray smoke. Being at the end of my acceleration and since I was a ways away from them, it was hard for them to tell if it was when the pressure built up at the top of my acceleration or if it was when I released the throttle, deceleration. This needs further testing.

What would be the best way to see if smoke is on acceleration or deceleration? It's not excessively thick or billowing smoke by any means. I can't even see it very well from inside.

About the rich issue. I don't have poor performance and my fuel mileage is good, 18 city.

When you say weak ignition, these are components you are talking about? any others?
plugs, wires, coils

thanks again.

 

[isnms]

EVAP: Step 3 (a) FAILED
http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/library/TSRM/ec/EC_07.html
What effect would this have on my problem?

I read

Typical components that could cause a too-rich mixture (and create carbon deposits) included ECT sensor, IAC valve, MAP or MAF sensors, EVAP, O2S and PCV.

Anyone have a inexpensive charcoal canister that passes step 3(a) on EC-7 TSRM?

 

[mrnickleye]

Doing a fuel pressure test, part of that test is to check for leaking injectors (and/or the check valve). After testing the pressure, and pressure regulator, shut off the engine and see if the system holds pressure for about an hour(?). If an injector is leaking (or check valve), the pressure will drop off pretty quick.
Also, injector leaking is not why you get black smoke at WOT. At WOT the injectors are very open to feed the large volume of fuel into the cylinders.

 

[Bishop92t]

EVAP has very little effect on how the car runs. It won't cause any of the problems you've mentioned.

Best way to check decel smoke is to just accelerate to about 60 in 3rd, then let off the gas with the car still in gear. Let the engine slow the car down until you're at about 10mph. Basically you're just trying to pull as much vacuum as you can through the intake manifold. At that point it should be pretty obvious whether the turbo is blown or not.

For acceleration it's fairly normal for a small puff of black smoke to come out when you first hit it. You just need someone with a car that can keep up so they can see what's happening at the top RPM's.

Anything in your ignition system that is close to failure could be considered weak. That means it isn't providing or channeling the strong enough spark to fully fire off the mixture. My first bet would be plugs. If you haven't replaced the coil pack harness (3 to 1) I highly recommend that as your next step, it's pretty cheap from Toyota.

How much boost can you run before you hit FCO?

 

[isnms]

Dang, and I thought I was on to something after reading:
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h62.pdf

Improper operation of the EVAP system may cause rich driveability problems...

I haven't checked fuel cut lately. Depending on outside temp, I have seen fco around 14psi. I have my evc set to ~10psi high setting, ~8psi low setting, now so I haven't been close to fco lately.

I'll try the decel test you suggested.
I happen to see, this morning, in my rear view mirror, after pulling off from a stop light, briskly, that it was pretty smoky behind me. So it seems that smokes is on acceleration. It did appear to be dark, maybe black - tinted windows, hard to tell.

Thanks for everyone's input too.

 

[isnms]

Just wanted to add this information:
At idle and at cruise my air/fuel is normal ~14.7

edit:
but I don't know if the computer is having to excessively compensate to achieve this. I will make a data log and see that the tccs is doing.

 

[isnms]

Don't abandon me now folks

I took a data log last night. Some stop and go, some heavy acceleration, some cruise control 70mph, and some idling. Unfortunately I don't have the log with me now so I can post it, maybe later.

To my surprise I am lean at idle. VF = 5v and 3.75v at idle, to maintain ~14.7:1 A/F. My cruise is also ~14.7 but I don't remember what VF was.
Still rich on heavy acceleration from a stop or a roll. Rich is normal I know but my A/F will dip to 9.7:1 and I get smoke behind me on acceleration. Not thick smog but I do get some smoke.

Everyone keeps saying that the charcoal canister issue is nothing. However I keep reading than an improper operating EVAP and lead to rich conditions. Then I find this today:

Component: Fuel: Fuel Emission Control: Canister
Summary: REVISED TESTING PROCEDURE FOR CANISTER CONTROL VALVE WHEN DIAGNOSING ROUGH IDLE, RICH ACCELERATION OR LEAN IDLE DUTY CYCLES

So am I still chasing up the wrong tree here?

 

[isnms]

Well, I ran it with the *Tank Pipe* line off the canister and it threw a couple of codes:
52 - Knock Sensor
71 - EGR

 

[isnms]

To my surprise I am lean at idle. VF = 5v and 3.75v at idle, to maintain ~14.7:1 A/F. My cruise is also ~14.7 but I don't remember what VF was.

I'm thinking I don't have a leaky injector since my idle VF correction is 5V = running lean, having to add max fuel. I don't think ECU would have to do this if injector was leaking. :dunno:
BTW, my VF reading at cruise is normal= ~2.5V

How does this fit in - I left the purge line attached to tank/bvsv/tb.
Did this create an entrance for unmetered air to enter and make me run Lean and detonate and throw the 52? If that is so then the check valve must be working and allowing air/vapors to pass?? But I could not verify this with the test.
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h62.pdf

Apply low pressure compressed air (0.68 psi) into the fuel tank vapor port (port A) of the canister and confirm that air flows out from all other canister ports.

I blew into a hose on port A. (I checked that I can blow 2psi. No Smart Comments Here ) and had a hose on the purge port held to my ear and could not feel or hear ANY air escaping.

In addition, I did the pcv test on this page and passed.
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h63.pdf

Before loosing sight of my problem completely.
I am blowing smoke on acceleration and my tail pipe tip is coated black.

thanks again for you help

 

[Bishop92t]

The charcoal canister has practically no effect at all on how the car runs. There just isn't enough gas fume volume to even make the car run slightly richer.

Detonation will NEVER cause a code 52. The only things that cause 52 is bad knock sensor, bad knock sensor wiring (most likely), or bad ECU.

Code 71 IIRC is only for California cars with the EGR EGT probe. If you've removed the EGR you need to get an adjustable potentiometer, install it on the EGR wires, then adjust it until the code goes away. If you haven't removed the EGR then you need to check the plug and/or sensor and replace whatever's broken.

Really you need to fix those codes before worrying about running rich. Code 52 can pull a bunch of power and basically make any sort of tuning or baseline testing useless. I'm not 100% sure what code 71 does as I've only worked on one California model, and we promptly removed EGR which fixed that problem forever.

 

[isnms]

My front knock sensor does look like it's hanging on by a copper thread I already bought the connector to do rewire.

One more piece of information: I have an exhaust leak at the ex-manifold, stripped stud bold I'll have to do the helicoil. How much influence would this exhaust leak have on my problem?

as always, thanks for you help.

 

[Bishop92t]

Exhaust leak has very little effect on A/F ratio. It does have a fairly large effect on turbo spoolup speed, but that's about it.

 

[rakkasan]

Really you need to fix those codes before worrying about running rich. Code 52 can pull a bunch of power and basically make any sort of tuning or baseline testing useless. I'm not 100% sure what code 71 does as I've only worked on one California model, and we promptly removed EGR which fixed that problem forever.

What he said. A code 52 will screw everything up, get that fixed & you'll see a lot of your problems dissappear.

 

[isnms]

52 happened when I left off the tank pipe hose from the canister, for vent for tank, and took a drive. I have never gotten 52 before or after that.
coincidence?

 

[Bishop92t]

As strange as it may sound, it's coincidence. Code 52 only comes from the things I listed above. Absolutely nothing else will trip that code. It's also one of the worst codes to get. It pulls all your ignition timing, leaving you with little power.

Also, a faulty or removed charcoal canister will never cause any codes of any kind. There simply is no sensor on the car that can detect the absence of the EVAP system.