Retro fitting my 87 with 89 parts.
- Thread starter PROJECT N00b
- Start date
Yeah, Gotta disconnect the drive shaft and the axels, then pop the dill off, pop the new one in, fill it up with frewsh sluids, connect allt he shafts and whazzam, your accually ready to go do some track runs,
yup, gotta find me one at the junkyard. and grab me some 89 lights. and a new front fascia. mines all warped.
Grr. This is the second time i've typed this out - firefox decided to update and restart in the middle.
Right - you will NOT be able to change ECU without swapping over the harness as well - there are wiring differences. Theres also ZERO benefit to swapping ECU's over - they all have the same map - from '86.5 all the way to '92.
Second - your injectors are more than adequate for an N/A - sure if you were going NA-T then by all means change them, but if you're staying N/A, don't bother. At the most - just get them cleaned by a pro as suggested. The stock 330cc injectors will be more than adequate for 250bhp, which, lets face it, on an N/A is expensive to achieve!
Differentials - you have a 4.3:1 diff at the moment, and yes, getting the LSD would be a great benefit, but in all honesty, if you go LSD - get an early Turbo 3.90:1 diff if you can (even the 3.73:1 is fine). Now my mate ed would be better able to explain why - but simply put 4.3:1 is too high. It might look like on paper its better for acceleration, but you'll suffer in terms of top end speed, and you'll be at high revs at cruising speed. A 3.90:1 will drop your revs and still provide acceleration thats only going to be a fraction of a second slower than the 4.3:1 diff.
I also note you're going to go manual - good! Remember, the W58 box is a good box, and in my opinion superior to the R154 in every way, with the exception of strength. Thats not to say a W58 cant handle the torque, it can handle a fair amount before going *ping*, but not as much as the R154. Whereas the W58 was designed for use in a car, hence the smoother gearchange and closer ratio's, the R154 comes from a Toyota Minibus - it's industrial grade, and the wider ratio's and crunchy gearchange are to be avoided unless absolutely necessary. I also prefer the W58's clutch arrangement - much less fucking around. Also, if you do go for a Turbo engine at any point, you can keep your W58 - i believe Dr Jonez has done this, but don't quote me on that.
As for building power on an N/a - well, i hate to burst any pre-concieved bubbles, but it's not going to get much better - and i know there are a few N/A's producing 250bhp or so, but thats not without a lot of money poured into them.
Pep your N/A up by doing the following:
1) Advance your timing, but remember to use at least your '91' rated fuel - 14' works great for me
2) K&N !!!
3) De-Cat if you have one, and if you do, make sure its legal. I know no N/A's in the EU ever had Cat's, with the exception of the very last '92 models.
4) If you have it - remove the EGR. Again, we never had it here, so i dunno if you even have it either!
5) 2.5" Exhaust system
Always remember to use decent plug leads, and also - if you're pepping up performance, try and get hold of some NGK BCPR5E-11's - running them in mine and they're muuuuuch better than the standard toyota replacements.
I know some people remove the resonator on N/A's as well (the large plastic thing between the AFM and the crossover pipe) although its dubious as to whether or not it actually hinders or increases performance.
Right - you will NOT be able to change ECU without swapping over the harness as well - there are wiring differences. Theres also ZERO benefit to swapping ECU's over - they all have the same map - from '86.5 all the way to '92.
Second - your injectors are more than adequate for an N/A - sure if you were going NA-T then by all means change them, but if you're staying N/A, don't bother. At the most - just get them cleaned by a pro as suggested. The stock 330cc injectors will be more than adequate for 250bhp, which, lets face it, on an N/A is expensive to achieve!
Differentials - you have a 4.3:1 diff at the moment, and yes, getting the LSD would be a great benefit, but in all honesty, if you go LSD - get an early Turbo 3.90:1 diff if you can (even the 3.73:1 is fine). Now my mate ed would be better able to explain why - but simply put 4.3:1 is too high. It might look like on paper its better for acceleration, but you'll suffer in terms of top end speed, and you'll be at high revs at cruising speed. A 3.90:1 will drop your revs and still provide acceleration thats only going to be a fraction of a second slower than the 4.3:1 diff.
I also note you're going to go manual - good! Remember, the W58 box is a good box, and in my opinion superior to the R154 in every way, with the exception of strength. Thats not to say a W58 cant handle the torque, it can handle a fair amount before going *ping*, but not as much as the R154. Whereas the W58 was designed for use in a car, hence the smoother gearchange and closer ratio's, the R154 comes from a Toyota Minibus - it's industrial grade, and the wider ratio's and crunchy gearchange are to be avoided unless absolutely necessary. I also prefer the W58's clutch arrangement - much less fucking around. Also, if you do go for a Turbo engine at any point, you can keep your W58 - i believe Dr Jonez has done this, but don't quote me on that.
As for building power on an N/a - well, i hate to burst any pre-concieved bubbles, but it's not going to get much better - and i know there are a few N/A's producing 250bhp or so, but thats not without a lot of money poured into them.
Pep your N/A up by doing the following:
1) Advance your timing, but remember to use at least your '91' rated fuel - 14' works great for me
2) K&N !!!
3) De-Cat if you have one, and if you do, make sure its legal. I know no N/A's in the EU ever had Cat's, with the exception of the very last '92 models.
4) If you have it - remove the EGR. Again, we never had it here, so i dunno if you even have it either!
5) 2.5" Exhaust system
Always remember to use decent plug leads, and also - if you're pepping up performance, try and get hold of some NGK BCPR5E-11's - running them in mine and they're muuuuuch better than the standard toyota replacements.
I know some people remove the resonator on N/A's as well (the large plastic thing between the AFM and the crossover pipe) although its dubious as to whether or not it actually hinders or increases performance.
The LSD will grant you better traction, but that's it. I was under the impression that, having no clutch packs, the open diff. actually provides better power transfer.... only so long as there are *no* traction issues. Unless the LSD was thoroughly worn out, you'd never notice any difference.
The injectors from either model flow the same amount. As suggested, you're best bet here is just getting them flow tested and cleaned. While you're at it start cleaning up all the wear components of your engine, test tolerances and replace anything that's broken.
Wasn't the only change to the automatic transmission the shift point revision in '92? Sorry, don't know much about the autos.
The injectors from either model flow the same amount. As suggested, you're best bet here is just getting them flow tested and cleaned. While you're at it start cleaning up all the wear components of your engine, test tolerances and replace anything that's broken.
Wasn't the only change to the automatic transmission the shift point revision in '92? Sorry, don't know much about the autos.
I'd say, save the cash and make your car shine from the exterior to the interior, put some nice music, if you haven't done so yet. Look, that it isn't rusty from the bottom/inside and make it ride another 20 years.
Dunno how you, but I'm doing this now anyways, not really thinking about power anymore, you can't race in the city anyways (by law and stuff and blahblhblah...)
Dunno how you, but I'm doing this now anyways, not really thinking about power anymore, you can't race in the city anyways (by law and stuff and blahblhblah...)
agreed, i really want it to look extremely clean, i have yet to look for rust, as it is not in my posession. and when it is, ill post up everything that is wrong with in, inside and out.
All N/As have the same 200 horsepower. The turbos found differences (232 hp vs 236), and the torque difference was just as small as the hp gains. There would be no point in doing what you want to do....
Also, Hells Legion basically said the same as Kai, so he has said the best input so far
I'm pretty sure the EGR does not help with performance.
Also, Hells Legion basically said the same as Kai, so he has said the best input so far
Kai said:
I'm pretty sure the EGR does not help with performance.
Removing the EGR gives cars here a small boost - but i'm talking 1, maybe 2hp at most. Then again it may have something to do with the fact that our cars aren't bogged down with the same emissions crap, or even a catalytic converter.
Fuzz420
Are U Here 2 take My Baby
if you really wanted to make a difference on the tranny, you could upgrade the valve body, its around 500$ but that would be the biggest increase in accel.