Replacing the front main seal

[SimpleIcon]

It's been 2 years since I rebuilt my 7m. I must have done something wrong when I installed the frontmainseal. it leaks a drop a min. I am going to replace it soon.

Anyone have any good tips before I get started this weekend? Is it nessesary to drain the oil? Coolent? Remove the radiator?

Thanks

 

[billspreston01]

ha...I'm gonna be embarking on that project too...it's leaking about a quart every 1000 miles...that and I need to FIPG my oil pan (pulling engine to do so) since I used RTV and it's leaking. I'm pretty sure the it gives directions in the TSRM for the front main seal, but it's hard to find. It was at the end of some other section.
If you're doing it in the car, I would suggest pulling the radiator regardless of if you have to or not, it's only gonna take one slip of a wrench or hammer or something and you will have even more leaks. If you find any info on it post it up and let us know how it goes.

Good luck

 

[mkiiSupraMan18]

Worste job ever. All of that work just to stop a little oil leak.

It's not really hard, it's just time consuming... I got pics of the job on a 6m, just pull the timing cover off, the crank pulley, the front cover, timing gear/belt/tensioner, I'd go ahead and do the cam seals also, since you're already "there". Just pull the old seal out, put the new in, put the timing gear/belt back on, the front cover the crank pulley, tighten the bolt up. Put the cam gears back on set it to TDC, set the dots on the Cam gears to the dots on the back cover, put the belt on, tighten the tensioner back up, crank it over a few times and check the timing to make sure it's still good.

All off the top of my head, so I may have forgotten something. Obviously you need to loosen the alt/PS/AC belts, take them off, possibly remove the AC bracket to get the front plate off. Umm... yeah... HTH :icon_bigg

*edit*
yeah, take the rad out, you'll appreciate the extra room. Oh, and the fan comes off too, can't forget that.

 

[SimpleIcon]

Thanks for your help! Yeah, thats what I was thinking too... time consuming. Any tricks to getting the the seal out? Im going to look on TSRM for that tutorial. If anyone finds it, please post it. Also, you said that you had pictures from your 6m job? are they on a site? can i see? Thanks

 

[Satan]

...more tips: Assume U know the other work involved... like removing belts, setting to TDC, etc...

1. Remove A/C compressor w/brackets & lines attached... Use a wire hanger, or whatever, to hold the compressor up and out of the way (without having to release freon).

2. U don't have to remove radiator... but the bottom pulley must come off. Figure out if you can do it or not... if you need to remove the radiator, then yes... drain first.

3. If the timing belt has unknown mileage, this would be the time to replace it... available from any autoparts store.

4. If U do not have a TRSM available, then you still wanna find the PDF and download to have available for reference. It can be an overwhelming-deal if things go wrong...

 

[IJ.]

To get the seal out you can either use a seal puller or a sharp screwdriver to punch a hole in it allowing you to lever it out.

When you install the new one smear some Permatex #4 around the outside and some grease around the inside rubber lip.

The Permatex helps it slide into place then seals it the Grease stops you tearing the lip when you install the lower cam pully.

 

[SimpleIcon]

Sounds pretty simple. I'll do a write up on it with pictures and post it when I do it.

I have my local shop sending me the timing cover gasket set which includes all i need. My only concern is getting the crank pulley off and getting the new seal back in. I assume that the pressure between the oil pan and block is keeping the old one in there.

 

[SimpleIcon]

To get the seal out you can either use a seal puller or a sharp screwdriver to punch a hole in it allowing you to lever it out.

When you install the new one smear some Permatex #4 around the outside and some grease around the inside rubber lip.

The Permatex helps it slide into place then seals it the Grease stops you tearing the lip when you install the lower cam pully.

Thanks IJ, i just got your reply. Are you sure I should use grease on the outside of the seal? I thought that lube was only suppose to be put between the crank and the seal? ...and no gasket sealer at all

 

[IJ.]

SI: I think you may be thinking of the Pan to Timing case here and not the front main!

Front Main is a round Steel/Rubber Lip seal in behind the Cam Belt pully.

You don't need any other gaskets to change this.

Grease on the INSIDE and PermaTex on the OUTSIDE

 

[SimpleIcon]

oh ur right, Thanks IJ. that saved me.

 

[pb92supraturbo]

See attached pictures(No comments on my manly shop towels!). That’s how I removed the oil pump and cam seals - made it super easy. Take a scratch awl and use it to make a dimple in the middle of the seal. Then take a small wood screw and gently screw it into the seal(make sure to buy short screws so you won’t go too deep). Use a small pair of pliers or vice grips to clamp on the screw and ease the seal out. I used a seal puller on the crank pulley and it worked like a charm as well.

Go to a local hardware store with your new seals in hand and find some PVC plumbing fittings that are slightly smaller than the O.D. of the seal. Use the PVC fittings to prevent damaging the seals when you drive them in by placing the PVC pipe against the seal(hi tech seal drivers!). I have a small spray bottle with rubbing alcohol in it and I spray down the seat that the seal goes into. The alcohol allows the seal to slide in easier but evaporates quickly and once gone, the seal will not come out unless you have a puller or use the screw trick again. The alcohol trick also works great when installing new vacuum line.

Removing the radiator makes the job much easier and eliminates the risk of accidentally puncturing it when removing something. I also replaced my water pump while I was in there since I didn't know how long it had been in service.

 

[SimpleIcon]

Thanks PB! I will have to use this... but instead of alcohol, think I should I use PermaTex like IJ suggested? Hmm, on the other hand alot of techs ive talked to say not to use any gasket creator like PermaTex on ring seals... maybe its different... ok enough of me thinkin out loud.

Thanks for all your help

 

[forcefedsupra]

The Permatex will be on the outside, not the rubber part. The outside does not move around. When a tech tells you not to use sealant, they think you are trying to seal the inside. It is fine to use it on the outside. Now, you've heard it from an ASE certified specialist. It is official, you can use it one the outside. It is not mandatory, but an extra precaution. Also, most techs use NEW motor oil on the inside but grease works great, too.

 

[IJ.]

I say to use grease as it doesn't run onto the outer surface like Oil during the install

 

[TurboSupra7]

when i did my cam seals all i had to do was put a thin coat of new motor oil on inside and outside and they slid in by hand very easily.

 

[IJ.]

And at the first sign of blowby they'll slide right back out.....

 

[forcefedsupra]

I agree, it will slide out.

 

[sethron71]

Got it down to 2hrs tops...lol Done it twice, make sure you have the seal in right (spring to inside to hold pressure) As IJ said grease the inside a bit. But overall not too bad a project for a day but if you don't fix it you will hate yourself forever as it will completely coat your motor, trans, car underside, exhaust, basically everything....lol

Seth

 

[IwantMKIII]

forget it, check new thread