Replacing the Clutch Soon - Anything Else To Check?

[rossman3s]

Good evening,

In the coming week(s) I'm going to be replacing the stock clutch in the Supra with a new one. Since getting her back on the road I have noticed some slipping in third gear right as boost is building. I've checked out a lot of threads and think I've got most of it covered, but would appreciate any input from more experienced owners. So far I've come up with...

Clutch - Spec Stage II Kit (car is stock, would like something that can handle a few basic modifications down the road)
Flywheel - Stock (getting it resurfaced locally)
Flywheel Bolts - Replacing with OEM or ARP

I have already replaced the clutch master and slave cylinders with OEM units as well as upgraded the clutch line with a Driftmotion Stainless Steel full length one. That was a few months ago.

Thank you in advance for any input, tips, criticisms, or comments.

 

[Poodles]

Be sure to reassemble the throwout bearing assembly properly. If it's not, the snap rings will fail and you have to pull the transmission to fix it. If you're really anal, you can replace all the washers and snap rings in the assembly.

 

[rossman3s]

Excellent, I'll be certain to triple check the throwout assembly when the job is underway. After a quick look, I think the price of new washers and snap rings is worth it to maybe save a headache down the road. Thank you, Poodles!

 

[Enraged]

do a braided clutch line while you have it all apart, and make sure to put some good quality fluid in.

 

[rossman3s]

Already done! The Driftmotion stainless line was a great upgrade while I was replacing the master and slave cylinders. That was about four months ago, so I don't think the fresh fluid needs replacing, but I will check it while I'm at it. Thanks.

 

[GrimJack]

I'd replace the rear main engine seal while I have it easily accessible as well.

 

[Poodles]

The image isn't too clear here, but if you have a real TSRM it's pretty clear: http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=CL&P=14

The second image down, they're showing to install the washer correctly. It's slanted like a flatter "/" Do not put it in the other way "\" as that washer keeps the assembly tight. If the clutch is original, you can pay attention to how it was originally.

Mine wasn't original, and they kept screwing it up (it was missing one of the washers and the order was totally wrong). Ended up replacing all the parts.

A set of these will save you hours of swearing removing and installing the retaining rings: http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00972129000P?prdNo=12&blockNo=12&blockType=G12 Sears used to carry cheaper ones, but I cna't find them on their site. I bought mine for FAR less than that. Normal snap ring pliers won't work.

 

[rossman3s]

I was over my friend's garage today (the guy that introduced me to Mk3 Supras) and he had a 7M lying around and showed me the rear main engine seal is a few bolts after removing the flywheel. That has been put on the list. It's kind of sweet that you mentioned it as I was over there being told the same exact thing. Thank you, Grim.

I think I know what you mean Poodles, my pal's Supra and his lying around 7M gave me a better visual impression today. So, I think I know what I'm looking for and what to expect. Pretty sure I have access to a similar retaining ring tool, I'll be sure to double check. Thanks again.

 

[Typhoon]

Rear main seal, trans input shaft seal/input shaft bearing (spin by hand, check for roughness/end float/play). Check pilot bushing in crank (correct diameter, lube if needed. Also check input shaft for roughness or scoring where pilot bushing runs), check slave cyl for weeping or leakage, check hydraulic hose also. Also have a good look at flywheel friction surface, no point going to all that effort and having a blued/coarse friction surface.
Also check flywheel bolts for correct torque. I like to replace flywheel bolts on high mileage engines, same with pressure plate bolts. A small failure here is a big pain to rectify when it's all together.

 

[Poodles]

Rear main is pulled without unbolting that plate that holds it (unless you like redoing the oil pan gasket as well)

 

[CajunKenny]

If you do remove the rear main seal retaining plate, consider having approximately 1mm of material removed by a machine shop to ensure a proper seal.

 

[rossman3s]

Thank you very much for the input and suggestions, should be a fun project in the coming weeks.